Hi and welcome. I do not recommend a tank on a Tuglyfe or a clone of it. It can be done, but it shaves your safety margin. (I assume you are talking about an unregulated version. Flawless does make a DNA 200 version but I haven't seen any clones of it. If it was a clone it'd probably have a YiHi chip anyway as they're cheaper). Another problem with the Tuglyfe is it is a series mod. Really, that sort of thing is for advanced users who know what they're doing, not-- forgive me-- persons unsure about coil building. It's super easy to get in trouble like that. If you insist on trying it, don't use a coil below about .75Ω under any circumstances unless you have some verified 25A+ batteries. Don't believe the label, check out Mooch's chart. Even with 25A batteries, don't go below .5Ω.
Vaping unregulated is something it takes a while to learn. You have to have a good knowledge of Ohm's Law and some confidence in your ability as a coil builder. Now, if you want to learn, fine: I, and many others here, will be happy to walk you through it. But even then, let's not start on a two-battery series mod, shall we? Safer alternatives are available. I strongly recommend you put the Tuglyfe in a drawer until you're ready for it, or sell it and buy something else.
Sorry for the bad news, and welcome to the board.
I just googled them. It said series. I will admit I don't have one. It is entirely possible you are correct. And maybe they make both. It surely would not be hard.Every Tuglyfe I’ve seen is parallel not series.
I just googled them. It said series. I will admit I don't have one. It is entirely possible you are correct. And maybe they make both. It surely would not be hard.
No harm, no foul. I don't care: I really don't want to see an inexperienced user put a pre-made coil tank on one, no matter how it's wired. That way tragedy lies.My bad...the V1’s and majority of the clones are parallel and the V2’s are Series. I didn’t clarify which I was talking about.
I thought the point was more about the factory drop-in coils having soft rubber insulators, instead of the sturdier PEEK or PEI ones found in most rebuildable atomizers, that could shift or deform in the heat and cause a short circuit during use, which would not be caught in a "pre-flight" ohm safety-check, as it were. If a short circuit occurs and bypasses the coil entirely, it doesn't matter WHAT resistance the coil is/was, as it's no longer a part of the circuit. That's why it's not recommended to use "tanks" (this refers to the kind with replaceable factory coil heads; the RTA "rebuildable tank atomizers" are generally on par with their dripping counterparts) on any unregulated device.Or, if the OP is like many of us and has no intention using sub ohm builds on the mod, using a tank should pose no issues at all with the proper checks before using.
Just so...I thought the point was more about the factory drop-in coils having soft rubber insulators, instead of the sturdier PEEK or PEI ones found in most rebuildable atomizers, that could shift or deform in the heat and cause a short circuit during use, which would not be caught in a "pre-flight" ohm safety-check, as it were. If a short circuit occurs and bypasses the coil entirely, it doesn't matter WHAT resistance the coil is/was, as it's no longer a part of the circuit. That's why it's not recommended to use "tanks" (this refers to the kind with replaceable factory coil heads; the RTA "rebuildable tank atomizers" are generally on par with their dripping counterparts) on any unregulated device.
That's what I've heard, anyway. I have a couple of tube mechs, but I don't use them very often, and only ever with rebuildables myself.
Welcome and glad you joined.I got a deal on a Tugboat tuglyfe n ordered it not knowing how to build up a coil so I am wondering can I put a tank on it or do shops do it if you pay them?