can i revitalize subtank coils?

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Ablonz

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The only thing I can recommend is taking the coil out itself and using a mini torch to "dry burn" it clean. The reason not to dry burn the coil in the prebuilt is because it could melt the rubber insulator and create a short which then could ruin your mod. Here is a link for rip trippers tutorial for rebuilding the coils: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCqNcKZAZjM @ 4:35 into the video is him saying why not to dry fire.The only thing you would not have to do in the video is make the new coil, just dry burn and replace back in. Hope this helps.
 

Leon1972

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Oct 3, 2014
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yeah i JUST watched that vid after doing another search.. lol. thanks though. My issue was i was googling rebuilding, not rewicking.
except he recomends dry burning.
the japanese cotton is best cotton for flavor right?
if this is all im doing i dont need to test for shorts or anything like that do i? i am putting it on a istick so it has the short protection anyways.
 
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shreduhsoreus

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yeah i JUST watched that vid after doing another search.. lol. thanks though. My issue was i was googling rebuilding, not rewicking.
except he recomends dry burning.
the japanese cotton is best cotton for flavor right?
if this is all im doing i dont need to test for shorts or anything like that do i? i am putting it on a istick so it has the short protection anyways.

As long as you don't mess up the coil while pulling the old cotton out and putting new cotton in you should be fine, plus like you said you have a protected device anyway. I've rewicked an OCC a few times, it's pretty easy to do and definitely extends the life of those expensive coils by quite a bit especially if you dry burn the coil after the wick is removed, just gotta do it in very short bursts so you don't melt the rubber insulator.
 
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Leon1972

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Yeah. Those coils are QUITE expensive. Lol. I'm figuring I can make a 5pk of cols last AT LEAST 6 months rewicking.
I can have a few on rotation at all times. When I'm on my last coil I will just rewick the other five at once.
To dry burn I just pulse the coil a second or two with a few seconds in between pulses and once the whole coil is pulsing red hot I just toss it in a cup of water? Right?
 
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LiquidElectron

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Drip a couple of drops of water into the coil from above after you dry burn it. Unless you think you can unscrew the thing and toss into the water really really fast...without burning yourself. I only dry burn it really quickly and that usually cleans it up without water.

Another way I've discovered to go about it is to pull the cotton out (which is harder than it looks), soak the coil and the head in water overnight, pull it out, let it dry...dry burn it really quickly one time...nice and clean. Rewick it and go at it.
 

Leon1972

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Oct 3, 2014
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Drip a couple of drops of water into the coil from above after you dry burn it. Unless you think you can unscrew the thing and toss into the water really really fast...without burning yourself. I only dry burn it really quickly and that usually cleans it up without water.

Another way I've discovered to go about it is to pull the cotton out (which is harder than it looks), soak the coil and the head in water overnight, pull it out, let it dry...dry burn it really quickly one time...nice and clean. Rewick it and go at it.

What about water so easily degunks these things? I would think fried crud would be more difficult to get off.lol
When you say a quick burn. You mean just a single pulse or two and that's it?
 

Taylor7617

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As long as you don't mess up the coil while pulling the old cotton out and putting new cotton in you should be fine, plus like you said you have a protected device anyway. I've rewicked an OCC a few times, it's pretty easy to do and definitely extends the life of those expensive coils by quite a bit especially if you dry burn the coil after the wick is removed, just gotta do it in very short bursts so you don't melt the rubber insulator.

Drip a couple of drops of water into the coil from above after you dry burn it. Unless you think you can unscrew the thing and toss into the water really really fast...without burning yourself. I only dry burn it really quickly and that usually cleans it up without water.

Another way I've discovered to go about it is to pull the cotton out (which is harder than it looks), soak the coil and the head in water overnight, pull it out, let it dry...dry burn it really quickly one time...nice and clean. Rewick it and go at it.

Are you guys dry-burning the stock heads? Approximately ... how long are they lasting you until you have to toss them (cleaning no longer working)?

I've been rebuilding PT2 coils for awhile but my issue is eventually after enough dry burns, the insulator starts to burn or I tear it pulling the damn thing out. I know this is b/c I don't have NR rated wire at the insulator. Just found some on FT site but they only show thin gauge wire (32-33, etc). I have already once replaced them all but don't want to do this with ST coils.

So.... are your just buying new stock coils or are your rebuilding? If rebuild...are you using Kanthal , NiChrome, other? Do you dry-burn rebuilt coils?

Any information would be most helpful!!

Thanks,
 

slinco

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I just rewicked my 0.5 coil in about 5 minutes, first time I have ever done it-very easy if you are careful.
A new piece of Japanese cotton and it vapes like a new coil, that nasty burnt taste is gone.
I did not wash the coil, I just dry burned it twice very quickly and blew it out with a little compressed air. Not perfectly clean but vapes like new for no cost at all.
 
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