Can someone help me with using a multimeter to test atomizer ohms.

[supermarket]

I've read from many people on here, that the $5 multimeter from Harbor Freight should be sufficient enough to test ohms for e-cigs.

Since I have a harbor freight literally at the front of my neighborhood, I figured I''d pick one up.


Now, I've watched a few youtube videos on using multimeters to test ohms, it is pretty straight forward.....although none of the devices are the same one I have (but similar).

I'm using the Harbor Freight Cen-Tek Digital Multimeter.

Now, I've been connecting the black lead to the thread, and the red lead into the center pin of the coils I'm using.

The problem is....two-fold:

1) I'm getting MUCH higher ohm ratings then what should be showing up. Out of the 3 coils I tested, they were all factory set to 1.8ohms (I bought these, didn't make them), but I'm getting readings from 2.6-4+ohms.

I have read that after use, the ohm rating can go up....but from 1.8ohm to 4ohm? Seems rather drastic.



2) The reading is very hard to get it to stabilize. I keep seeing the reading bounce around, even though I'm holding the leads perfectly stilll.




Am I doing something wrong, or are these perhaps not as accurate for ohm readings as others have stated.

Again, I was told by multiple people here and elsewhere that this device should be fine for testing ohms.



If I have to, I'll drop the $20, and get a better multimeter.....perhaps one with 510 and ego connections even , they are cheap enough.


Thanks in advance guys,
super

 

[supermarket]

Ahhh, i re-watched one of the videos, and I guess I missed the part about touching the leads together. When I do that, I get between 0.6-0.8.

That means I subtract that from the ohm reading I get from the coils, correct?

That would make a lot more sense.


Even if that solves the first issue however, it definitely doesn't help with the second issue.

The numbers jump around SO FREAKIN much on these things.....that how am I supposed to know which numbers to listen to?

 

[iceman68]

Touch the leads together and then subtract that number from the reading you get from the coil. See how that works.

I just got a multimeter too and was having a similar issue. Testing a 1.8 ohm coil I was getting a 2.4 readout. But touching the leads together shows .7 ohms, so 2.4 minus .7 equals 1.7 which is close.

 

[itsrayray]

Holy crap that is off by a bit, lol. Sounds like you are set though sir!

 

[IrishUpstart]

Another factor is tolerances of atomizers. A stock 2.5ohm head doesn't necessarily mean 2.5. Most (all?) Have +/- of like .2 ohms making the stock 2.5 head somewhere between 2 3 and 2 7.

As for reading not stabilizing. You have a $5 meter. Only so much you can expect. I reckon the $150 Fluke meters offer a much more stable reading.

 

[AttyPops]

Couple of tips.

If you're having a real rough time with the contact issue....cheat a bit and press firmly with your thumb on the lead...pinch the lead+carto between your thumb and fingers. Let the one in the center press it's weight against the center hole.

You have to mess with it to find a technique that you like. Should be pretty easy.

Also, make sure the contacts on the leads are clean. Same reason you clean thread contacts on mods, atomizers, atty ohm-meter's, etc.

Yes, subtract out the lead ohms if you don't have a meter that does that for you. Some of them, you touch the leads together 1st.

 

[supermarket]

Turns out I just had to get the feel of the device. Considering it is a $5 tool, from Harbor Freight (known for selling the crappiest tools, I worked there, I should know ) I just had to really get a feel for the device itself.

Having subtracted the initial reading from the ohm reading......all 4 of the coils I tested were actually right where they should be, some RIGHT on, some give or take .1-.2 accuracy.


Definitely a nice little $5 tool, especially since I have kanthal wire and silicone wick that should be in my mailbox anyday now


I'm so glad I listened to you guys, and saved all my spent coils. I literally have over 25 spent coils just WAITING to be rebuilt.

 

[AttyPops]

Fun with multi-meters:

Q: What is the resistance of your skin between the end of your finger and the 1st skin fold at the knuckle?
Q: Between your two hands?

Draw a heavy line on a piece of paper with a #2 pencil. Go over it several times and make it really dark.
Q: How many ohms per inch?
Now make the line 3x fatter (not longer, but fatter/wider). Go over it several times as well. Make sure it's all connected. A dark rectangle.
Q: Now how many ohms per inch?

Thickness is like wire gauge. See the ohms drop? Heavy (thicker) wire has lower ohms.

 

[supermarket]

Now I just can't wait for my kanthal wire and silicone wicks to get here. Delivery date was supposed to be August1st-2, which would be today. I ordered from ebay.

HOPEFULLY it will get here tomorrow, so I can spent a few hours sitting back with a cold one, perfecting some coil building


I'm really excited because A) I know I'll be saving TONS Of money, B) I don't like to wait until the coils have that burnt taste to replace.....instead I like to replace right when the coil starts tasting like wet dog, or just not hitting as well. Since I'll be building my own, I figure I'll replace coils every 3-7 days, instead of 5-14 days. This makes me happy and C) I heard from MANY on here that self-built coils for evods and pro tanks taste MUCH better and wick MUCH better than stock, factory coils. I have no doubt about this.....and D) it won't be long before I can play with different types of wicks, and really find my sweet spot


Next time, upgrading my ego twist batteries

 

[Alter]

To me its Yes I'm saving money by rebuilding but you will find out real fast that your crappiest rebuild is going to be 1000 times beter than a stock coil. Nothing sweeter than your first vape off of your first coil rebuild. My sweet spot for my protank is 2mm hollow ekowool with 5 wraps of 32 kanthal yields me 2.1-2.3 ohms, that helps battery last longer through the workday and produces a nice vape cloud. I like the hollow ekowool cause I can insert a blunt pin to give me a nice solid work surface to wrap.

 

[iceman68]

Now I just can't wait for my kanthal wire and silicone wicks to get here. Delivery date was supposed to be August1st-2, which would be today. I ordered from ebay.

HOPEFULLY it will get here tomorrow, so I can spent a few hours sitting back with a cold one, perfecting some coil building


I'm really excited because A) I know I'll be saving TONS Of money, B) I don't like to wait until the coils have that burnt taste to replace.....instead I like to replace right when the coil starts tasting like wet dog, or just not hitting as well. Since I'll be building my own, I figure I'll replace coils every 3-7 days, instead of 5-14 days. This makes me happy and C) I heard from MANY on here that self-built coils for evods and pro tanks taste MUCH better and wick MUCH better than stock, factory coils. I have no doubt about this.....and D) it won't be long before I can play with different types of wicks, and really find my sweet spot


Next time, upgrading my ego twist batteries

I'm about ready to dive into coil building also, however I haven't gotten the wire and wick yet. The idea of being able to build my own stuff is definitely appealing. Even though new EVOD heads are only about $1 - $1.50 a piece, I'd rather be able to just sit down and rebuild them myself and save some cash.

One thing I've been wondering is what size wick to get for the EVOD heads. I was thinking 2 or 2.5mm. I saw a video that used 3mm but thought I could get away with smaller. Planning on using 32ga Kanthal wire.

Here's the video I mentioned, it's pretty good. She actually says 2mm wick is standard, with 1mm for flavor wick, if I understood correctly.

 

[Alter]

I found that multi wick 1mm in a protank doesn't work all that good. 2mm silica should be good but you want to bulk it up to make sure there is no space on the bottom of the silicone cap/top of the wick when you put the stem back on, thats what I use the 1mm flavor wick for is to plug up that hole. 2mm hollow ekowool works the best for me in my protank/T3 rebuilds with a single 1mm flavor wick along with 5 wraps of 32 kanthal and I get @ 2.2 ohms..thats the way I roll.