Can someone please explain vv and ohms to me? Also....clearos vs cartos question

[kfig]

So i've been vaping seriously for about two weeks. I will never ever go back to analogs. I even withstood the going out drinking with all smokers test. AND i live in the south, so you can smoke in bars down here. I DIDN'T DO IT. Yahoo!

I'm already regretting getting a 510, but at the time I didn't know much about vaping. I've learned so much in the past few weeks. I've even decided to do DIY with juices.

One thing I really don't get is the Variable voltage and the Ohms. I know that vv makes the vape taste better but thats about all I know.

Im looking to buy a drip tip and an atty so I can start dripping.....I tried someone else s and it was a good couple of toots.

I've also decided that I don't like cartos but I love clearos. I dont understand what my problem with cartos is. I really would like to learn to use them since it seems like the juice lasts much longer in them. I burn through SO much juice in my clearos. Like 50mls in one week. That can't be normal. Anywho, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sicarius]

VV means being able to set the device at a non standard battery voltage. In the case of the ProVari it takes the battery at say 3.7V and can electronically adjust the voltage from 3.3V to 6.0V. What does this mean ? As you change the voltage you also increase or decrease the current to the atomizer and thereby increasing or deceasing the power. Power = heat and heat = vapourizing. The hotter the atty runs the quicker it eats through juice the bigger the hit and sometimes the more the flavour. Too much heat and you burn the juice = burnt taste. Now onto ohms. The lower the ohms the higher the current draw. Higher current = more power consumed. Hope this helps.

 

[Slim Batz]

Science class ... VV is variable voltage, for a given attachment (clearo,carto,etc) , the ability to vary the voltage up and down allows you to vary the current flowing thru the device, making it run "hotter" or "cooler" (more or less current), which changes the characteristics of the vape. The equation is Ohms Law: I=V/R where I=current, V=Voltage, and R=resistance. The R value is what you see when you shop for attachements ... 2.5ohm, 2.0ohm, 1.7ohm etc. So, for example if your clearo is rated at 2.5 ohm lets say (R=2.5) then as you increase the voltage (V) with your VV device, Ohms law dictates that the current increases and the attachment runs "hotter".

Note that with a constant voltage PV you can achieve the same effect by changing the resistance of the attachment. I SR carto will run cooler than a LR carto due to Ohms Law above, where you are varying the R value (ohms) now instead of V which is constant ... but the effect is the same, the current I changes up or down.

 

[rse1]

Hi,
I've been vaping for a couple of months but I've done a lot of research here and elsewhere. Various combinations of carto's/atomizers, eliquids, and voltage/amperage work better than others.

With a VV system you can tune the voltage to find the best one for use with a particular combination: for example, with one combination the vapor is too cool at 3.5 but too warm at 4.2 so you could just modify the voltage to 3.7-4.0 rather than change the combination by using a different carto or changing to a different eliq.

The resistance of an atomizer (heater) is measured in Ohms. Whether alone, in a carto, clearo, or tank the resistance affects the warmth of the vapor and the amount of current drawn from the battery. The lower the resistance, the more current and the hotter it runs. I've seen atomizers run as low as 1.25 ohms and as high as 3.5. The little batteries in cig-like systems can't handle the high current draw of the low resistance (2.0 ohms or less) atomizers.

I don't like constantly fussing with the equipment/eliq delivery so I've decided against dripping as a general rule. It is awful handy to test new flavors but not so good as a regular approach for me. It does provide the standard against which all other eliq delivery systems are judged for flavor, vapor production, and TH.

You're going thru a lot of eliq if you're going thru 50ml/wk. Maybe you just like the delivery system so much it's hard to stop. I think if you want to vape less you might look at higher nic content. The dizziness, and other symptoms of nicotine overdose, make's vaping too much pretty self-limiting.

I hope the above info helps you but remember is also just IMHO.

 

[sailorman]

HI. I'm in the South too. In fact, you're a Yankee to me. Anything North of Ocala is a Yankee, LOL!
I know what you mean about the bar thing. It took me a month to screw up the nerve to take the bar test!! I was kind of miffed that it was so easy. I missed out on a month of drinking!!

Nothing wrong with a 510. I started with one. At least you didn't get a Blu, or a "free trial" or an e-cig that only worked with special $10 pre-filled cartomizers. The only thing about them is that the batteries don't last long enough and you can't use a low resistance atty unless you get a "mega" 510 battery.

About voltage and ohms. Ohms is a measure of resistance. The lower the ohm rating, the hotter the coil will get for any particular voltage. Also, the lower the ohms, the more drain is put on the battery. The more amps get drawn from it. The faster it dies and if you use too low ohms with a too small battery, the battery can be killed.

So, don't try to use a 1.5ohm carto in a battery less than 450mah. The standard 510 battery is about 180mah. That's milliamp-hours. It is the theoretical amount of current the battery can provide per hour. A 180mah battery can (theoretically) provide 180 thousandths of an amp (or .180 Amps) of current, per hour. If something draws .18Amps, it will deplete the battery in one hour.

But you don't need to know all that. A low resistance carto has a low number and burns hotter. A high resistance carto has a higher number and burns cooler. Sometimes, it's too cool and barely works at all unless you increase the voltage. That's what VV is all about. It's Variable Voltage. It doesn't make the vape tast better, it allows you to control how hot the juice is burning. Some juice tastes better hotter, some cooler.

Your 510 puts out 3.7 volts on average (nominal rating). That decreases some as you use it. The little light starts blinking and it shuts off at about 3.5 volts or thereabouts. That protects the battery from over-discharging, which will kill it or can be dangerous.

Ohms Law states that the voltage squared, divided by the ohms equals the watts produced by the coil, just like a light bulb.
Most vapers prefer between 5-8 watts. Some go for the High voltage and vape up to 10 watts or more. That's HOT, but produces major vapor. It also can destroy the flavor or taste burnt.

Using Ohms Law, you can see that 3.7 squared is 13.69. Divided by 2.5ohms equals 5.48. That means a 2.5 ohm carto will produce 5.48 watts. That's on the low side of the sweet spot. But 3.7 is the nominal voltage. When your battery is hot off the charger, it'll be around 4.0 to 4.2 volts. 4.2 squared is 17.64. That means 17.64/2.5ohms = 7.1 watts. So, you see, you don't need much voltage change to make a big change in the number of watts produced. with the same 2.5ohm carto, you can get from 5.48 to 7.1 watts just by varying the voltage from 3.7 to 4.2 volts. A variable voltage PV does that automatically. It maintains a certain voltage delivered to your atty regardless of whether the battery has just come off the charger or has been used for a while. It lowers the voltage when the battery is fresh, and boosts it when it starts to empty out. First, it measures the resistance of the carto. Then it decides how much voltage to supply in order to maintain the wattage you tell it to.

If you use a constant voltage and plug different ohm numbers into that formula, you'll see that the lower the ohms, the higher the wattage, and vice-versa.

Hope that's not too confusing. It's all about Ohm's Law. Voltage (from the battery) squared, divide by ohms (resistance) equals watts. You're shooting for 5-8 watts, whether you're choosing a carto or adjusting a VV PV.

 

[Credo]

kifg,

Currently there are two technologies on the US market.
Variable Voltage (VV) and Variable Power/Wattage (VP)

The biggest advantage of either of these technologies is that you can use larger batteries, and each hit will be 'regulated' to a constant voltage until the battery needs recharging. I.E. Without the regulation, the first hit would be hot and strong, and each subsequent hit would gradually get weaker as the battery runs down. VV or VP does a better job of keeping each hit consistent throughout the life of the battery.

The next major advantage to VV or VP is that you can attach pretty much any atomizer/cartomizer ever made to the device, and not have to worry too much about the Ohms (resistance). You can adjust the voltage to drive your atty to personal taste. If you use higer resitance atomizers from 3Ohms and up, you'll find a really large curve of lower temperatures that you can enjoy that simply are not possible with LR atties (below 2.5 Ohms).

Finally, VV or VP can help milk some extra life out of atties/cartos. As they age, where one would normally try cleaning the atty, or tossing it for a new one (tho it still works), one can often use a VV/VP device to gradually crank it up a bit and milk some extra life from an aging atty.

With VV, you raise or lower the voltage using a dial, button, or pot of some sort. To get your target voltage, you can simply start with a low setting and gradually dial it up to taste/feel. Or, you can test the atomizer resistance and use Ohms Law to calculate a target power/wattage.

With VP, instead, you set a target wattage or power level with a dial or pot, and a computer automatically tests the resistance of whatever atomizer you have attached and alters the voltage in real time as you vape. Like with VV, you can start low and dial it up by taste. On the other hand, with VP, if you've a pretty good idea that you like a liquid at around 6 watts, you can set it for that, and no matter what carto/atty you put on, it will adjust itself to 6 watts of power.

Examples of some really nice American Made VV mods are the ProVari V2 from ProVape.com, Buzz Pro, VVPV, and the Infinity from notcigs.com.

VP mods are currently made by Evolv. The Darwin from NHaler • Smoking Alternatives is one example. Alternatively, you can use a little $45 button called "The Kick" which will turn any non-regulated 18650 mod (with 18500 batteries) into a Variable Wattage system.