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CE2-DELUXE Fluxomizer Clearomizer All NEW Uncrackable SuperTubes, New Everything, All ohms, In Stock @ GOTVAPES -Official Ce2-Deluxe Thread

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badkolo

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and while the tester was good and the changes are good, if the final batch doesnt perform well it wont be picked up.

slowly but surely we will remove what doesnt perform, it takes time but before christmas youll all be more then happy, i assure you all.

the tides are turning and factories are listening to us and are NOW willing to make drastic changes according to our advice. fiixing products was one stage, whats happening now is a whole new level, it costs them alot of money, alot of headache with no gaurentee other then my word that its worth doing.

This is going on now with over 12 factories that are making drastic changes, this will benefit everyone in the long run, this will benefit gotvapes drastically and all vendors who deal with them and inturn you will end up with better products from the get go. This is not easy but it must be done. They invent the newest products, now its time for them to perfect what they invent and more then a dozen have heard me loud and clear and are willing and have behind the scenes to go the next step, make it better and they will buy, thats our daily motto with them.


this will be evident in a weeks time and things only get better from there.

and if a product wont be fixed by the factory but its to good to let go, then we will have it fixed by someone else regardless as you will also see in a weeks time.

less headaches for everyone this way.
 
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ZebadeeDoodah

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Originally Posted by zer0ith
I find blowing on the coil is a bad idea when you have your battery button down, it actually makes it hotter (hence why it glows brighter). I find doing that tends to pop the coil VERY easily

Good point.

It's kinda like what happens when you blow on BBQ coils.

I don't really see how this can be true, though I can't argue with empirical evidence of a coil popping. When you blow on a hot coal, it gets hotter because it's actually burning and it gets more air (oxygen) to feed the fire. The atomizer is not actually burning, but being heated by resistance. From the standpoint of physics, it ought to be cooled off with more air flow moving the heat away from it.

If it glows brighter, I suspect that this is because any smoke or vapor that is obscuring the view of the coil is getting blown out of the way.
 

badkolo

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blowing on the coil will cause it to pop faster, blowing on it increases the chances for it pop faster , i noticed this time and time again, im no scientists and dont know what the cuase is but it seems to glow and burn hotter and when its dry it obviously has a chance to pop faster then when wet, thats why 510 atomizer just arent good at taking a dry burn, they pop and even faster when blown into.

the ce2 and vision can take extra abuse for some reason
 

ZebadeeDoodah

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Blowing on the coil increases the amount of oxygen around the already hot burning metal which increases the rate of oxidation causing the metal to break down faster.

Thanks, naviathan. That makes sense. Even though the metal isn't actually on fire, it would oxidize faster from the heat and even faster with more oxygen present, especially if it's wet.
 

naviathan

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Thanks, naviathan. That makes sense. Even though the metal isn't actually on fire, it would oxidize faster from the heat and even faster with more oxygen present, especially if it's wet.

It's not on fire, but it is burning. The metal turning red means it's hot enough to start changing state. When it starts changing state it begins to break down in a similar fashion to wood burning, just slower. Red coals at the bottom of a fire pit are still burning, they're just not on fire.
 

ZebadeeDoodah

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On considering it further, I think something else is happening.

While I've managed to break a coil through clumsiness, I've never had one break when dry burning. Not saying it's not possible, but what has happened to me as far as I can tell is that the solder that connects the coil to the wire that goes to the battery connector has melted and the connection pops. I would bet that blowing on the coil moves the heat down to that solder joint. This is speculation, but it fits better with my experience of what happens. Metal gets burning hot, and it does oxidize (which is like burning only much slower) even at ordinary temperatures. But it doesn't burn up from the kind of heat that an e-cig battery supplies. It would melt first.

One another thread, or earlier on this one someone (randytx?) mentioned that his battery had failed to turn off and the coil had melted the plastic of the CE2, but the coil didn't burn out. The solder joint was probably protected by the juice, which wouldn't be the case with dry burning. Again, sheer speculation.

I might be wrong (for the first time ever!), but in any case, knowing the exact process isn't really that important. Still, I'm obsessive and that's my latest take on it.
 

gman1000

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badkolo & Dannoman, working with 12 different manufacturers to solve customer issues is a very daunting feat, I for one thank you both for your efforts to work with them and continue to bring more products to innovate the market. No wonder you guys are up so late, communicating with the manufacturers probably on their own time zones. I hope you guys will take a well deserved break if this all pans out, but that might not happen if you all are busy filling in the orders that are going to swamp you.

Now can I get my test samples???:p
 

byggd

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I find blowing on the coil is a bad idea when you have your battery button down, it actually makes it hotter (hence why it glows brighter). I find doing that tends to pop the coil VERY easily
True. But the air will also carry heat away. Never poped a coil yet but my batts are only 3.4 and 3.7V.
 

naviathan

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On considering it further, I think something else is happening.

While I've managed to break a coil through clumsiness, I've never had one break when dry burning. Not saying it's not possible, but what has happened to me as far as I can tell is that the solder that connects the coil to the wire that goes to the battery connector has melted and the connection pops. I would bet that blowing on the coil moves the heat down to that solder joint. This is speculation, but it fits better with my experience of what happens. Metal gets burning hot, and it does oxidize (which is like burning only much slower) even at ordinary temperatures. But it doesn't burn up from the kind of heat that an e-cig battery supplies. It would melt first.

One another thread, or earlier on this one someone (randytx?) mentioned that his battery had failed to turn off and the coil had melted the plastic of the CE2, but the coil didn't burn out. The solder joint was probably protected by the juice, which wouldn't be the case with dry burning. Again, sheer speculation.

I might be wrong (for the first time ever!), but in any case, knowing the exact process isn't really that important. Still, I'm obsessive and that's my latest take on it.

You make a good point about the solder joint. During a dry burn blowing on the coil probably causes the melted solder around the connection the move away from the joint. I've had some coils snap right in the middle though. I'm a tad obsessive too and I've had to look a bit closer at some. Under a 10x jewelers loupe the coil wire itself looked rough and pitted. Right at the break on either side it looks like it tapered down into a deeper pit which is what caused the snap. Dry burning definitely takes a lot out of a coil, but unfortunately there's not much else we can do to clean these things effectively.
 

zoiDman

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    True. But the air will also carry heat away. Never poped a coil yet but my batts are only 3.4 and 3.7V.

    I feel that safe and successful Dry Burning, like many things e-Cig, is 3 parts Hard Cold Science and 7 parts Trial and Error.

    Sure, one can site many facets of Exothermal Reactions, Metallurgic Dynamics of Oxygen Induction or Wavelength Emissions as an indicator of Elevated Temperatures, but where the rubber meets the road is What Works Best for a given user.

    I’ve had nothing but Bad Luck blowing on a CE2 while Dry Burning. So I don’t. I’ve also had Very Good Luck soaking a CE2 in White Vinegar before Dry Burning. So I do.

    But if another person finds it to works better for their needs to not soak and to blow while Dry Burning, I say stick with what works.
     
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    ZebadeeDoodah

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    You make a good point about the solder joint. During a dry burn blowing on the coil probably causes the melted solder around the connection the move away from the joint. I've had some coils snap right in the middle though. I'm a tad obsessive too and I've had to look a bit closer at some. Under a 10x jewelers loupe the coil wire itself looked rough and pitted. Right at the break on either side it looks like it tapered down into a deeper pit which is what caused the snap. Dry burning definitely takes a lot out of a coil, but unfortunately there's not much else we can do to clean these things effectively.

    Thanks for the further information. Looks like both things could be going on. All in all, though, I'm very impressed with their durability. They can take a lot of abuse and keep on putting out vapor. I keep trying other cartomizers, and I'll continue to try new things, but I keep coming back to the CE2s. They rock!
     
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    zoiDman

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    You're right, zoiDman -- what works best for somebody is what they should do. I wish the vinegar thing worked for me, but I've never noticed any difference with it, or PGA for that matter, and I'm scared to try any more exotic solvent. My lungs have inhaled enough weird things already.

    There’s nothing wrong with Dry Burning without soaking.

    Vinegar seems to dissolve coil/wick “gunk” in my CE2’s but it could have more to do with what caused the gunk in the first place. I like Very Sweet, High VG e-liquids. So it could be that the Vinegar is dissolving the gunk built up by the Sweeteners I use in my e-Liquids. Or perhaps it is the VG that is dissolved.

    Where as a person who uses High PG Non-Sweet e-Liquids might not see and be benefit to a Vinegar or PGA soak.

    Have you tried an Ultra-Sonic Cleaner?
     

    badkolo

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    Also when it comes to certain devices and juices its always wise to use juice that isnt issue prone since we know not all juice is equal.

    WE DONT PUT WATER IN OUR cars GAS TANKS, the same applies with cartos that where designed in china to work with the juice they designed, they will work with normal ranges of juice but sometimes arent meant to work with super thick juices as thats not what each system was built for.
     

    zoiDman

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    someone should try the vinegar/vodka soak and then after boil to see if this is a viable method of cleaning

    I find that boiling tends to lock the gunk into the wick. Kinda like the way hot water sets a stain verses cold water removes it.

    But YMMV
     
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