Chasing the taste of an easy repairable CE2 Tank Cartomizer.....
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OK,
I think we all know by now that the CE2 cartomizer or whatever it is called has a superb taste to it. I'm not sure what this unit is known as "out there" - but here is a picture of it:
This is really just a development of what BigBulli did in this great thread: Repairable CE2
I decided to try and make an easy coil & wick replacement unit based on this cart since it has such a nice clean taste to it. I must be honest: I have not yet used a better tasting atty or cart than these.... I use peanut flavoured VG. It is clean. It kicks in the throat. It tastes great! Sadly even the s/steel wick does not compare.
I took two syringe needles and soldered them to the central tube and battery connector. I then took two thinner needles that could fit into the syringe needles and pushed them through the original holes in the cup. They were bent over to fit tightly against the outside of the cup. The tips were then bent slightly outwards to allow the coil wire to be pulled into the gap (BigBulli's brilliant idea by the way). It works very good and is real easy. The coil is just clamped between the ceramic and the needle.
Pictures should be self explanatory. I turned a new plastic shell and used a 510 battery connector - all the othewr parts are basically from an old carto. I decided to use my own plastic since the stuff the originals are made of keeps cracking...
Here's the pictures.
I think we all know by now that the CE2 cartomizer or whatever it is called has a superb taste to it. I'm not sure what this unit is known as "out there" - but here is a picture of it:
This is really just a development of what BigBulli did in this great thread: Repairable CE2
I decided to try and make an easy coil & wick replacement unit based on this cart since it has such a nice clean taste to it. I must be honest: I have not yet used a better tasting atty or cart than these.... I use peanut flavoured VG. It is clean. It kicks in the throat. It tastes great! Sadly even the s/steel wick does not compare.
I took two syringe needles and soldered them to the central tube and battery connector. I then took two thinner needles that could fit into the syringe needles and pushed them through the original holes in the cup. They were bent over to fit tightly against the outside of the cup. The tips were then bent slightly outwards to allow the coil wire to be pulled into the gap (BigBulli's brilliant idea by the way). It works very good and is real easy. The coil is just clamped between the ceramic and the needle.
Pictures should be self explanatory. I turned a new plastic shell and used a 510 battery connector - all the othewr parts are basically from an old carto. I decided to use my own plastic since the stuff the originals are made of keeps cracking...
Here's the pictures.
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Hi Swissy,
Yes I have and the idea is pretty much based on BigBulli's very clever plan. Will try to post the pictures shortly.
Yeah nice, I plan on trying something like this.. How's it working out for you?
It works great Swissy! Very easy to replace the coil and wick. Just plug and play... What I do enjoy most of all is the taste. No metal infusion in the VG. And it draws much easier than the original.
Nice thing also is that it doesn't leak at all. And depending how deep you push the silicon plug over the ceramic cup, you can adjust the wicking rate.
Been using it for two days now. I like it.
Nice thing also is that it doesn't leak at all. And depending how deep you push the silicon plug over the ceramic cup, you can adjust the wicking rate.
Been using it for two days now. I like it.
Schweet 8) One thing I've been doing with my CE2's lately, is I take the tube off and take the wick from the left side, drape it over the coil and tuck it in the divot on the right side and when I vape I lean my PV towards the side with both wicks on it. Mostly do that so I can drip a lot on it, but either way it has been wicking a lot better.
What type of solder did you use? And at the bottom where you have the 2 needles soldered it almost looks like the solder is pooled and touching both needles?
No, that is not solder. What you see there is epoxy. There is a bit of a trick to soldering the s/steel needles. If you look here you will see how I get the solder to stick on the needles. I'm using Kester lead free solder.
Ah ok sorry, wasn't sure. From the looks of that thread it would seem you practically invented CE2
Ah ok sorry, wasn't sure. From the looks of that thread it would seem you practically invented CE2
I guess there are some similarities.
Was a long time ago.....Which wick type are you using, Glass, silica, ceramic?
I would be careful with the epoxy, Ive made a few homemade genisis with marine epoxy, although Raidy indicates it is okay if you use 10min+ setup and wait the 24-48 cure time but, I have noticed a flavor change within a few days on one of my tanks.
I would be careful with the epoxy, Ive made a few homemade genisis with marine epoxy, although Raidy indicates it is okay if you use 10min+ setup and wait the 24-48 cure time but, I have noticed a flavor change within a few days on one of my tanks.
I use the original glass wick used in the CE2. I tried my luck with a manufacturer and was able to buy 10m of it. I use a special epoxy used for fly tieing. Have used it for a long time without any flavour change. But thanks for the advice!
otrem. I follow your at this point, I have created a few gennys myself. Looks like a DSE801 mouthpiece for the drip tip. What material are you using to make the top seal? I can see the needles looks like they are about a 45 degree angle from the wick. Is there a fill hole? thanks again for your help.
fills thru the wick, like the 'line'.
sealed with silicon rubber from cleros. wont burn with 2 or 3mm clearance from heating coil.
sealed with silicon rubber from cleros. wont burn with 2 or 3mm clearance from heating coil.
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