Cheapest place for aw bats?

[basementcat]

So I ordered the starter set with my order but am wondering where folks have found the cheapest aw bats? I have use ultra/trust fire bats before and they work ok for the price but I really wanna use only the best for my glv. Any help is appreciated. Thanx.

 

[keyzygirl]

I looked everywhere for my last set,Jay and everyplace else I go were out of them.I got some at Super T manufacturing the price was good and the shipping was super cheap.Good deal.

 

[IndustrialAction]

Based on lots of searching, I came to the same conclusion as Keyz. Super T is the cheapest source.

 

[QuikWgn]

$5.49 ea @ avidvaper.com but they are currently out of stock. If you have found them cheaper, even if they are out of stock, please post anyway. i am willing to wait as I already have 2 sets but want to buy some more.

AvidVaper battery page

 

[Brutus Buckeye]

Lighthound has them for $6.99 in stock. Of course Jay also has them, I plan to get my next set from him.

AW RCR123a Protected 750 mAh Battery

 

[James Hart]

kinda off topic, but not much...

Why not IMR batteries? I've got some of both the protected 16340 (gray and blue xxxxxFire type) but recently picked up 4 of the IMR type. From reading the 'science' of it, I was thinking of ordering the AW brand IMR's as my standard... but I also see Jay recommends the regular AW lithium ion exclusively.

 

[QuikWgn]

The IMR "Hi-Drain" red series are only 550mah compared to the 'silver/black' AW li-ion 750mah. Most people are probably looking at the longevity factor between battery swaps. At least in the regulated 5v devices the "Hi-Drain" feature is less important than the time between charges.

 

[James Hart]

The IMR "Hi-Drain" red series are only 550mah compared to the 'silver/black' AW li-ion 750mah. Most people are probably looking at the longevity factor between battery swaps. At least in the regulated 5v devices the "Hi-Drain" feature is less important than the time between charges.

My gray and blue Ultrafires have 880mah and my BDL IMR have 350mah... I get seemingly smoother and more consistent vaping from the IMR ones than the Ultrafire. Neither seem to last me any longer between charges than the other.

The difference is the "Hi Drain" LiMN have a more consistent output curve than the regular protected Li-ion type. I only use/own single battery mods, so I'm not concerned with stacking. I have read that the IMR ones are safer for series use though.

 

[James Hart]

I just went hunting and found this post explaining the mah vs. rate of discharge issue.

the mAh ratings will be lower...but look at it like this ...if they hit harder you'll be holding the button down for a shorter period of time so you're not going to notice it...

heres a theoretical example...
let's say you're using a LR atty on a 14500 battery so that's 3.7V..

now a 1.5Ω LR atty at 3.7V is about 2.47A as far as amp draw goes..

now lets compare a Ultrafire 900mAh 14500..
that battery has a max drain rate of ...1.3A (so it's overstressed...you're gonna loose charge cycles and it's not going to hit as hard)
but on a brand new one best case senario you're looking at roughly:
1313 seconds of continuous runtime or about 262 (average of 5second long) button presses
*and this is going to drop the more you use that battery because of the overstress as it looses it's ability to take and maintain a charge

now lets say the new AW IMR 14500 high drain...yes it's only 600mAh...
that battery has a max drain rate of 4A..that far exceeds the 2.47A draw of your atty at 3.7V..so it's not going to be overstressed and it's going to hit harder (thus you'll have shorter button presses to get the same amount of vapor)
so in that senario you're looking at roughly:
873 seconds continuous or 291 (average of 3second long) button presses


* just so you know what math I did to get the #s I did:

you take the amp draw in mA and divide by the mAh rating of the battery to get the C rate (rate of discharge)...and divide 60 minutes by that C rating to get continuous minutes in the battery (*60 for seconds) and divide that by length of your average button press for the # of button presses

likewise the max drain rate of the battery is the mAh rating of the battery times the C rating then divided by 1000....and 60 minutes divided by that same C rate
(c rate is given my the manufacturers, but the *fire brands are 1.5C, Li-Ion AW is 2C, the AW IMRs are all different by size (14500=4A, 16340=8C, 18650=10C)...otherwise C rate defaults to 1C)

and amp draw is voltage (of battery) divided by resistance (of atty or carto)

 

[QuikWgn]

You'll notice I specified in my last post about the regulated 5v models. The 'harder hit' issue is moot on a regulated drain device. The atty is going tho draw the exact same amount of power throughout the curve because the ohm load is fixed and so is the voltage. Once the batteries can no longer support 5v it quits hitting with little or no change in production from fresh batts to no fire in my GLV2. Maybe only the last 10 or so fires have a decreased vapor output as the voltage nears the cut off.

 

[tybin]

candle power forums marketplace probably has the cheapest batts. you can get aw 2900mah for 17.50 so I immagine the others are pretty darn good as well.

edit: oops this is a suppliers forum. hope the post is ok

 

[QuikWgn]

The amount of sites that carry the AW batts pales compared to the Ultrafire/Trustfire batts. I mean you can't even find them on Amazon or Ebay. I wish more places carried them so there would be more price competition.

 

[basementcat]

Redilast makes a darned good battery as well. They say they will eventually have other sizes but for now they only have 18650. I've been told the quality is the same as aw maybe even a little more even performance.

 

[James Hart]

You'll notice I specified in my last post about the regulated 5v models.

Jay makes and sells a 3.7v Mini GLV-2, a 3.7v Super Mini GLV-2 as well as a 3.7, 5 and 6v version of the stacked battery GLV-2. I'm waiting for my Mini and also enjoy 2 other brands of single 16340 loaded mods... that is why I stated it was kind of off topic to the thread (though I don't recall it being specific to 5v, just cheap AW retailers).

In your opinion... in a single 16340 unregulated mod, why not IMR? to be more specific, I run 2.4ohm cartos personally. Like I said, I have a mix of batteries and all were bought "until I invest in a bunch of AW branded batteries". I was thinking of ordering 6x AW IMRs but am second guessing it due to Jay's pushing of the standard protected Li-Ion ones.

 

[QuikWgn]

The deciding factor would be to put the 2 battery styles under a maximum load, say like a string of lightbulbs and check to see what the max amp output of each battery is, and compare that against the max drain produced by your atty or carto of choice. Though I've done this many times when making max amp draw cycle-matched rechargable battery packs for electric powered RC cars, it seems a bit too much work for my PV. I charge my AW Li-ions and put them in fresh before I leave for work @ 8am, using them steadily during my combined 40 minute commute, use them off and on @ my desk and during my 75 mins of lunch/breaks & they usually die somewhere between 8-10 pm in my 5v GLV2. I have a pair of cheap silver Ultrafires that I use when the AW's are charging or I use my passthrough. This works good enough for me.