Chi You Clone destroyed by Samsung 25R - What happened?

[BillW50]

Got a Chi You clone from eBay. Ohmed between the 510 pin and ground, open. Tossed in a totally flat 0v LGHE2 18650 and it fit ok. Grabbed one of my Crown 1 tanks with a dual coil head SS316L and screwed it on the 510. Removed the dead LG and dropped in a fully charged Samsung 25R (wrap and cell in perfect shape) and fired and it hit like 7 watts and had a weird metal taste.

Removed the Samsung and it was really hot! It was only in there for less than 5 seconds. Grabbed my IR temperature probe and the highest reading I got off of the battery was 170°F. Checked the voltage from the cell and it read 2.48v. The battery must have had a dead short, but where and how?

Resistance: 0.256Ω
Voltage: 4.2v
Current: 16.41A
Power: 68.91W

Grabbed the Crown 1 tank and put it back on a Paranormal 250C and it vaped just fine without any weird metal taste either. I'm stumped.

UPDATE: Battery now at room temperature and tossed it in my xtar VC4 charger and it doesn't even see it. Well one thing I know for sure, is that I can't trust this cell anymore for anything.

 

[bombastinator]

A few possibilities:
1. You bought a clone off eBay. This sort of thing is probably predictable.
2. You used an atty with a non protruding center pin on a hybrid mod and shorted the battery.
3. Mechs are famously dangerous and you may not know the ins and outs of using them, of which there are many. This is supported by:
A. you putting a coil cartridge atty on a mech in the first place
B. buying a clone mech off eBay in the second place.
C. being surprised you narrowly avoided blowing your face off in the third place.

Really: you need to know a lot of things about how mechs work to use them safely

 

[r77r7r]

whoa,dude. dodged one there!

 

[BillW50]

You used an atty with a non protruding center pin on a hybrid mod and shorted the battery.

Damn you are right. Put it back on the 510 of the Chi You and ohmed and it is a dead short.

 

[bombastinator]

Damn you are right. Put it back on the 510 of the Chi You and ohmed and it is a dead short.

@Baditude has a wonderful little visual aid for this issue.

He also knows a lot about mechs.

 

[Baditude]

@Baditude has a wonderful little visual aid for this issue. He also knows a lot about mechs.

I'm not real familiar with the Chi You, but looking at images on Google Images I saw both pinless 510 hybrid tops and normal 510 with a center pin. So they are available with one or the other, or have removable tops with both types of tops.

All hybrid-top, pinless mechs must use an atomizer with an extended center pic or you will short out the battery.

Generally its a bad idea to use a clearomizer tank that uses drop in coils on any mech.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

 

[BillW50]

I'm not real familiar with the Chi You, but looking at images on Google Images I saw both pinless 510 hybrid tops and normal 510 with a center pin. So they are available with one or the other, or have removable tops with both varieties.

Okay I understand now. Mine is not a hybrid, but uses a standard 510 pin. It looks like the one on the right.

Generally its a bad idea to use a clearomizer tank that uses drop in coils on any mech.

Yeah most likely, but I trust these coils and I have used them for two years and it was only to try it out for a few minutes before I build a coil.

But now I am back to why it shorted the battery? Played last night with it again without a battery of course and put the Crown base back on (without coil) and I ohmed everything I can think of and I can't find any reason why it shorted?

 

[r77r7r]

insulator?

 

[BillW50]

It ohms fine (open) and look fine.

 

[Izan]

It ohms fine (open) and look fine.

Hi B,
Just to double check, sorry if I'm recovering ground you have already covered;

You are only using two of the body tubes, Right? You removed the short "kick" ring?
Did you have another tank/topper with a fixed 510 center you could try on the device?
Have you taken the whole unit to bits and cleaned and checked all the components?
Is the wrap at the bottom of the Sammy wide enough to prevent a short in the switch?



Cheers
I

 

[BillW50]

You are only using two of the body tubes, Right?

Yup.

You removed the short "kick" ring?

Yes and oh is that what that ring is for? I suspect you are talking about the Evolv Kick, eh?

Did you have another tank/topper with a fixed 510 center you could try on the device?

Sure I have tons of RDAs. Although the ones in use have a BF pin installed. The others all I have to do is to build a coil. Either or, neither is hard to fix anyway.

Have you taken the whole unit to bits and cleaned and checked all the components?

Well no, just ohmed everything. It is brass and it looks very clean actually.

Is the wrap at the bottom of the Sammy wide enough to prevent a short in the switch?

Yup.

By the way, nice video about preventing battery rattle.

Anyway I am not going to try a fully charged 18650 in it again until I figure out what went wrong the first time. I do have an old cell that had a charge of 0.5v the last I checked. That would be pretty safe to use if there is some reason it wants to short again. As I don't see how there would be enough energy in that cell to even heat up enough to do anything. And when firing a RDA without a coil, I should have the same 0.5v there too for a test.

 

[Violetti Usva]

0.5v is such a low charge that the cell is not usable. Below 2.5V and you've basically killed your battery - for vaping on a mechanical mod typically you'll want 3.5V or more. Most regulated devices wont let you discharge down that low.

 

[BillW50]

Yes I know Violetti Usva. It was drained down to 0.5v by a failed regulated mod. I still don't know exactly why the Chi You killed a perfectly good Samsung 25R. And that 0.5v will be used to test if 0.5v gets to the RDA posts (without coils) and if it does, there is no hidden shorts anywhere. If there is, there won't be 0.5v there for sure.

 

[2ndChoice]

Just going off the OP post.
Right off the bat a red flag went off in my head. You used a TANK on a mech.


I own a authentic chi you, actually a few differnt versions and one clone. They all work fine with my rdas. I use my tanks on box mods, and VW mods, never on a mech that's me, I've been doing it that way since day 1 with no explosions. I also run as low as 0.08ohms with 20s, or .30ohms with series tubes again never an issue.

OP good luck, be careful.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

There is no reason at all why you can’t use a tank on a mech. Just avoid pre-built coil heads and, as with any other atty, ensure the connection is suitable for your mod (hybrid safe etc).