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Choice of epoxy

Discussion in 'Battery Mods' started by MidnighToker, Sep 17, 2009.

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  1. MidnighToker

    MidnighToker Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jun 27, 2009
    NC
    OK, I've built about 8 or so Nicostick type mods by now. The main point of failure (besides the cheap crap RatShack tactiles...that's been fixed) is the epoxy not holding. It either breaks away from the box, or the connector starts spinning and connections snap. So far I've tried metal/concrete (works best) and plastic type. Both Loc-Tite brand.

    Any recommendations?
     
  2. tdstrike

    tdstrike Super Member ECF Veteran

    have you tried scuffing up the inside of the box before you apply the epoxy, gives it a bit more bite.
     
  3. qdilla

    qdilla Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2009
    the windy city
    I make them too here's my secret hot glue gun!!!
     
  4. MidnighToker

    MidnighToker Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jun 27, 2009
    NC
    LOL. Tried hot glue for the first mods. Was way too springy and also wound up tearing.


    (Maybe I should find my kinder, gentler self to use my mods...)
     
  5. Noodles

    Noodles Full Member

    Jan 30, 2009
    New York City
    I have built a few of these and I find that if using JB weld or any composite epoxy they may at some point fail. Scuffing the two surfaces will increase the life of the bond. The best part about the Nicostick is that all of the parts are user replaceable/repairable.

    IMO tho stay away...
    Far away from gorrilla glue as a solution

    It's the nature of the mod/user
     
  6. qdilla

    qdilla Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2009
    the windy city
    Ok maybe I'm using good glue and a two temp glue gun and they hold great i have made about 22 nico mods,Ad tech multi temp full size gluesticks.
     
  7. dedmonwakin

    dedmonwakin Super Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 16, 2009
    Destin,FL.
    I recommend using epoxy putty(not glue), you should really prep any surface for proper hold. Mending metal to plastic using glue rarely provides longevity since plastic bends and also responds differently to temperature changes in the realm of expansion/contraction. Light scuffing or even using a hard abrasive won't be enough if you want it to last, even when using glue or putty since many of us are in the habit of removing or constantly replacing the atty.

    Best results are to drill small holes or deep, deep gouges. For best results using epoxy with the connector. Drill small holes (usually 2-3) around the base of the connector with a drill bit. I use a #60 drill bit by Irwin. After that's done, press the putty into it until it seeps through and pack behind and in it as well. It should now go no where.

    Now, we're going for longevity. So, why not remove the silicone O-ring in the connector?

    What I do, is remove it. Solder the positive and negative wires in their proper place.
    With the positive portion removed from the connector. I pack the center of the connector(or negative housing) with loctite 5 minute putty. Now I fish the positive wire through the front of the connector until the positive brass portion is flush with the housing. Quickly clean the surface with a damp cloth and screw an atty on so it's a molded fit. Pull out my trusty multi-meter to test for shorts. If all is well, let it cure.

    It's 5 minute putty, so obviously this must be done quickly.
     
  8. dedmonwakin

    dedmonwakin Super Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 16, 2009
    Destin,FL.
    Your probably more gentle with your mods than some of us.:oops:
     
  9. qdilla

    qdilla Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2009
    the windy city
    That could be true,I treat all my electronics like babies lol.:p
     
  10. ainako

    ainako Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Nov 25, 2008
    Southern California
    krazy glue gel, been holding up for 2 months on my nicostick. The trick is to fight the urge to use and let the glue dry for at least an entire night.
     
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