- Status
Dunno. It was on my order too, another roll of Nichrome and a couple feet of several of the fiberglass and silica ropes, when they said they WON'T SHIP to me in Canada anymore. I'm still ticked about that. I used to order a ton of stuff from those jerks.
So I don't know... sorry.
So I don't know... sorry.
The thread is weird, I made it on a lathe.
You could try removing the o-ring from a mouthpiece, and use that instead.
Rock it back and forth a bit, it should pop off.
If not, PM me.
You could try removing the o-ring from a mouthpiece, and use that instead.
Rock it back and forth a bit, it should pop off.
If not, PM me.
That is lame. I used to order from them on almost a daily basis when prototyping. They were efficient, well stocked, had everything, but then I was only a couple ground days away from them. I'd be delighted to order for you, and send it along, if you want. I also could peel off a few feet of various nichrome and kantal heating wires that I got off Ebay. I only got 30' of each, but you're welcome to half of it. I owe you at least that for your generous sharing of your work.
Do I need to warm the ends before trying to remove? and on reassembly is there a certain depth for the atomizer,or does it just go so deep and stop? In other words should I measure depth before diss? I have 3 total but my first one leaks juice onto the battery.Is there a sealant on the assembly?
Yep, I use a heat gun to pop everything loose, it makes life much easier.
For the depth, I have a high-tech tool - a pencil with a line drawn on it ;-)
I measured the distance to the bridge before disassembling the first one, and I am still using the same pencil now.
Wow Great mod. I have 8 dead e cigars. I'll try this myself. I might destroy a few. but I have a bunch to spare and nothing to lose! Thanks You.
Last edited:
This is a far easier way to replace the atomizer, and I'd say better results too:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tomizer-bling-cigar.html?highlight=m401+cigar
The vape is not as thick, but twice as hot as a cigar atomizer. Really good kick
M401's come apart this way: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/17306-m401-atomizer-disassembled-pics.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tomizer-bling-cigar.html?highlight=m401+cigar
The vape is not as thick, but twice as hot as a cigar atomizer. Really good kick
M401's come apart this way: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/17306-m401-atomizer-disassembled-pics.html
This is a far easier way to replace the atomizer, and I'd say better results too:
The vape is not as thick, but twice as hot as a cigar atomizer. Really good kick
Greetings Rjg just a question that was lingering in my mind for a while since I read this post. Have you ever tried putting an extension tube on the battery side and add another battery to make it 7.4v. I know that what you have made is better because u turned the coil hotter but for people like me who are not as delicate as you when it comes to small electronics would this be a feasible alternative.
What I was thinking was putting a metal extension tube and have the ends tapped the same size as the rings. But if this done will there be a problem with the power since that metal tube now becomes a big conductor.
Secondly will the led light burn out since your using more power and if so will it render the connections useless.
Or will it be better to choose a pvc tube as an extension and buy the tapped rings(I don't know if they are even available) and just put wire to connect both rings of the extension. If this is a better alternative will I run into the same problem like the second one that I have mentioned will the led indicator be able handle this much power.
It also seems better theoretically because now you can make the extension tube long enough to accommodate the longer 10440 protected batteries not that there is something wrong with original ones it just gives you added peace of mind.
If these are all feasible then there is one question left and maybe the first question I should have asked can the atomizer handle this much power the original cold one I mean and not your hotter version.
Well... the tube is a conductor, it's already the positive pole of the cigar. It is a poor conductor, so there is a secondary wire added inside, soldered to the brass ring, to power the atomizer. It IS used as (+) for the clean function "switch" though.
I am quite sure 7.4V would kill it dead. You can get around that by added a voltage regulator while you're in there adding the second battery.
It won't be as easy as you think, since there is a plastic sleeve inside the steel body. The sleeve is AAA sized, and carries the wires for the clean mode, atomizer power, and the LED. You'd need to come up with some protective sleeve of your own, and extend some wires to the end of your additional tube.
All this would be a TON of work for a unit without a replaceable atomizer.... unless you plan on rewinding it as this thread shows, or adding some means to easily change it as the 401 Cigar thread shows.
What you *can* do easily, is make a fake battery for your cigar... From an AAA sized wooden dowel, or plastic rod etc, stick a brass thumbtack in each end, connect wires, drill a hole in the plastic part of the jewel end for the wires, and run the cigar from a variable or 5v DC power supply.
I am quite sure 7.4V would kill it dead. You can get around that by added a voltage regulator while you're in there adding the second battery.
It won't be as easy as you think, since there is a plastic sleeve inside the steel body. The sleeve is AAA sized, and carries the wires for the clean mode, atomizer power, and the LED. You'd need to come up with some protective sleeve of your own, and extend some wires to the end of your additional tube.
All this would be a TON of work for a unit without a replaceable atomizer.... unless you plan on rewinding it as this thread shows, or adding some means to easily change it as the 401 Cigar thread shows.
What you *can* do easily, is make a fake battery for your cigar... From an AAA sized wooden dowel, or plastic rod etc, stick a brass thumbtack in each end, connect wires, drill a hole in the plastic part of the jewel end for the wires, and run the cigar from a variable or 5v DC power supply.
if I were to do that what output PS would you recommend 5v and 4,2,1,.75 or lower amp output.
Hey RjG,
Great job on the info and the disassemble. I do have a couple of questions, if you have the answers.
What is the gauge of wire you use to connect to the nichrome? I was thinking 30awg would work fine, but I wasn't sure.
As far as the microchip goes (located on top of the battery compartment) what exactly does it do? Does it just handle the cutoff times or are there other functions? If you remove it and re-wire the battery leads, will the cigar still work?
I was also looking at the M401 atty in a bling thread. I've been having a hard time finding the 401 attys in stock, are there any other atty models you have tinkered with that you think would work?
Many thanks for all of the great work you've done.
Great job on the info and the disassemble. I do have a couple of questions, if you have the answers.
What is the gauge of wire you use to connect to the nichrome? I was thinking 30awg would work fine, but I wasn't sure.
As far as the microchip goes (located on top of the battery compartment) what exactly does it do? Does it just handle the cutoff times or are there other functions? If you remove it and re-wire the battery leads, will the cigar still work?
I was also looking at the M401 atty in a bling thread. I've been having a hard time finding the 401 attys in stock, are there any other atty models you have tinkered with that you think would work?
Many thanks for all of the great work you've done.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
