Cleaning my built pt coils?

[AveryW]

I just recently built my first mini pt 2 coils and had the thought of how to clean these. I already know about dry burning, but other than that, should I keep with the water/vodka soaks like I did with the stock coil heads? Or would this effect the cotton?

Sent from my GS3

 

[wheelie]

Take out cotton and dry burn. Put in new cotton. That's all I do. Easier than ever since I took on rebuilding them as well. Lightning Vapes sells both the seals if you need any. CHEERS!

 

[danny4x4]

Wouldn't affect the cotton as you would have to rewick with cotton each time you clean your coil.

Usually I,
1) take out the cotton wick
2) rinse head
3) dry burn
4) rinse again

step 4 is important imo as sometimes the crud from the flavourings or cotton caught in the coil when you pull it out will leave "ashes" after the dry burning process.

 

[AveryW]

So how often should I dry burn? Or just wait till it starts tasting funny

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[GeorgeWachsmuth]

Also....be cautious while dry burning...you can burn the insulator plug....frankly...I usually pull the cotton....rinse it off...give it a couple of pulses....rewick it...wet the wick with a drop of juice..slap it together..good to go....can last a month that way....I usually have 5 or 6 tanks I rotate and recoil them at regular intervals..only takes 5 minutes or so after the learning curve kicks in..

 

[spewny]

Just tried dry burning again today with some newer coils with the silicone insulator and, surprise, no burning. I had been switching coils every few days due to the residue so for me this is HUGE! Also finally lets me adjust a coil under current instead of just torching which makes a huge difference getting a good microcoil.

TL;DR check your insulators, if they are almost clear and soft, dry burn away

 

[Mrs C]

So how often should I dry burn? Or just wait till it starts tasting funny

Sent from my GS3

I dry burn anytime I change the cotton ...flavor falls off, juice change that won't play nice (absinthe to apple fritter), burnt wick because I wasn't watching juice level ect

 

[AveryW]

Also....be cautious while dry burning...you can burn the insulator plug....frankly...I usually pull the cotton....rinse it off...give it a couple of pulses....rewick it...wet the wick with a drop of juice..slap it together..good to go....can last a month that way....I usually have 5 or 6 tanks I rotate and recoil them at regular intervals..only takes 5 minutes or so after the learning curve kicks in..

Are you rewicking with a fresh piece of cotton or the one you rinsed off?

Sent from my GS3

 

[ImperfectFuture]

Are you rewicking with a fresh piece of cotton or the one you rinsed off?

Sent from my GS3

They are rewicking with new cotton. Be sure to add juice to coil and cotton before assembling, then fill whatever tank with juice. No dry burns that way.

 

[Nightshard]

Building you head with smaller gauge wire makes replacing the cotton much easier.
Thin wire like 32 may deform when you pull the cotton out.

 

[volume control]

I like the protanks with 30ga wire, when I was using it and rebuilding I would replace that wick every 3-4 days and dry burn quick. I don't like doing long intense dry burns because it seems to make the coil more fragile. I just fire it long enough to see it start to glow a couple times quick, and if it looks pretty clean its good.

 

[Mark Anthony]

I make sure the wick is wet by running it under water and then snip off one of the ends and it usually pulls right out that way.......

 

[coalyard]

If you dry burn, just go easy as another poster said. Yes, the replacement silicone insulators help with this. Myself, I just wind another coil. I have it down to being able to hit 1.8 ohm every time.

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

Are you rewicking with a fresh piece of cotton or the one you rinsed off?

Sent from my GS3

Fresh cotton...