Clearomizers and Map tank chitchat and info

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kushka

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Is anyone cleaning out and reusing clearomizers? I used one over the weekend and the coil is all gunked up. I removed the mouth plug and can see another plug in there that caps off the bowl and filaments. That plug looks to be difficult to remove and possibly to correctly replace.

Yes! - Actually the removal and replacement is easy. badkolo made a couple of great videos showing the cleaning and modding of clearomizers

YouTube - CE2 Clearomizer Easy fill plug & Tube removal How-to Gotvapes.com
YouTube - Ce2 Cartomizer, Fluxomizer Clearomizer Tips & How-to, Gotvapes.com
 

Trish342

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lilith79

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librarising

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This part confuses the heck out of me...if this supposed to be like the ego-tank, shouldn't it be zero-fill?
From their site:
# Center baffle separates the juice reservoir from the filling so this is modifiable, maintainable, easily cleaned!
# Replace the fill with your own PTB mod or your own fresh fill!
 

librarising

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In continuation of my older review (see below) of the eGo-T atty and carts.

After my review the atty died on me and Liberty-Flights quickly sent me a replacement - great customer service.
I started to vape with it again and I am unimpressed and prefer regular Boge or SLB cartos. I find that although having a short life, the flavor is quite good.

With the eGo-T I found that flavor is a little bitter and the taste of the juices I tried didn't come though. I don't know if that bitter taste is coming from the atty (wick?) or perhaps the plastic used for the cart?

For now, until my Holy Grail is found, I will continued with the cartos I've been using.

I received my eGo-T atty and carts yesterday, which I bought from Liberty-Flights. They only had the blue clear cartridges, which are kind of funky and cheap looking,. It takes away from the elegant look of the cone atomizer and battery. I can't see the clear (white) ones being that attractive either. I also think that the clear tank is only useful for filling purposes and more of a gimic, because after a few vapes, the liquid is already down under the cone. They should make these in opaque colors.

It was hard to take off the cap from the cartridge. Finally off (and a couple of ragged finger nails later), I filled it with liquid, not to the top as had been advised by a couple of people on the Net. I then inserted it into the atomizer which I had already screwed onto the battery. When you insert the cartridge, you have to push down and turn. That opens a hole from which the liquid drips down onto the atty.

My first couple of fills were wonderful. BTW...once you use the cart for the first time, there is a hole in the cap. I find it easier to fill the cart with a syringe then to struggle to get the cap off. It's a nice size hole and you won't have the same problem many have with filling with a syringe that you might have with the joye/eGo cartos or ce2s (in all incarnations).

It vaped on the cooler side, which is good for me as I use dessert vapes, and the atty didn't seem to fry the juice as a lr atty or carto would do. Then the taste started to get burnt. I notice there was residue on the cart and looked for maintenance videos on youtube. It seems that some of that residue is supposed to be nicotine? I rinsed that cart out in warm running water and it's now drying.

I also decided to blow out the atty and darkened looking juice started to come out --I guess the juice did get cooked. I blew until all the liquid was gone. I filled a new cart and the taste still isn't the greatest, but not that bad. I am a chain vaper and perhaps it isn't wicking fast enough for me? I'm going to try to slow down my vaping and see in a while if that helps at all.

It also looks like I'm going to have to get another of these attys this week or soon because the same maintenance video recommended that when you actually clean these attys (he recommended iso alcohol, once a week) you should let them dry over a 48 hour period.

As to leaking. There is no apparent leak but juice is coming out of the battery end of the atty and forming a tiny puddle on the battery itself. This will not be a set-up I can use for my eGo auto batteries but fine for the manual ones.

I will be getting a new batch of Boge 510 regular 3.0 ohm cartos today or Monday (I'm all out right now) and I'm going to check them out side by side.

There is no summary, because the jury/my jury is still out on these.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I've been using the Ego-T for about week. It works pretty well when you get the height of the wick adjusted in the needle correctly. Pushed down to far and it leaks pushed up to far it dry hits.

I just got 2 MAP tanks today and I'm vaping away on them and really like them. Tons of vapor and good flavor, easy to fill.

I'm using 100mah Ego batteries so it's about of 7" long, might just be a bit to hard to take on the go. The MAP tank sticks up out of my shirt pocket and eGo-T still doesn't, so I'll use the Ego-T for now when I'm out.
 

JollyRogers

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I've been using the Ego-T for about week. It works pretty well when you get the height of the wick adjusted in the needle correctly. Pushed down to far and it leaks pushed up to far it dry hits.

I just got 2 MAP tanks today and I'm vaping away on them and really like them. Tons of vapor and good flavor, easy to fill.

I'm using 100mah Ego batteries so it's about of 7" long, might just be a bit to hard to take on the go. The MAP tank sticks up out of my shirt pocket and eGo-T still doesn't, so I'll use the Ego-T for now when I'm out.

Beast, can you give me a pointer on how to adjust the wick? I have one T-atty that floods, and the other doesn't wick enough...

I am assuming you meant a 1000mah ego batt? Not a 100mah :)
 

Filthy-Beast

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Beast, can you give me a pointer on how to adjust the wick? I have one T-atty that floods, and the other doesn't wick enough...

I am assuming you meant a 1000mah ego batt? Not a 100mah :)

Yes, 1000mah, I got the 5 click ones from LF.

To adjust the wick on the dry atty use a paper clip or syringe to push just slight down on the wick inside of the needle tip, 1/16th or less of an inch at a time and then try it.

On the atty that floods I would pull the needle plate out and push it up from the bottom. I use a set of needle nose pliers to grab the needle and just pull. It's also a great time to clean the coil and rest of the atty. Put the needle into an empty tank and use that to push the assembly back into the atty. I've read that some people have success using a sewing needle to pull it up from above without removing the needle plate. However there was a few posts where the attempts to do this from above made the flooding worse.

I've got 7 attys, all from Cignot, and they seemed to be slightly different out of the box. The wick was in a different position and some wicks seemed thicker than others. The thickness might just be my imagination though. I've not pulled the wick completely out of the needle as I've read it can be a royal pain to get back in.

There was some talk about full tanks being able to push the wick during tank install, thick juice no or little compression = piston action in the needle pushing on the wick. To keep pressure in the tank from pushing the wick down, I started inserting my tanks holding everything upside down so the air pocket hits the needle first.
 

atsirk

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To adjust the wick on the dry atty use a paper clip or syringe to push just slight down on the wick inside of the needle tip, 1/16th or less of an inch at a time and then try it.

This made all the difference for me! I was getting dry burnt hits from my tank, didn't care for the thing at all - pushed the wick down a little bit with a toothpick and viola! I now see what the fuss is about, and have been happy to have a system I can use safely while driving (I'm a dripper). Thanks for the tip, Beast!
 

librarising

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Yes, 1000mah, I got the 5 click ones from LF.

To adjust the wick on the dry atty use a paper clip or syringe to push just slight down on the wick inside of the needle tip, 1/16th or less of an inch at a time and then try it.

On the atty that floods I would pull the needle plate out and push it up from the bottom. I use a set of needle nose pliers to grab the needle and just pull. It's also a great time to clean the coil and rest of the atty. Put the needle into an empty tank and use that to push the assembly back into the atty. I've read that some people have success using a sewing needle to pull it up from above without removing the needle plate. However there was a few posts where the attempts to do this from above made the flooding worse.

I've got 7 attys, all from Cignot, and they seemed to be slightly different out of the box. The wick was in a different position and some wicks seemed thicker than others. The thickness might just be my imagination though. I've not pulled the wick completely out of the needle as I've read it can be a royal pain to get back in.

There was some talk about full tanks being able to push the wick during tank install, thick juice no or little compression = piston action in the needle pushing on the wick. To keep pressure in the tank from pushing the wick down, I started inserting my tanks holding everything upside down so the air pocket hits the needle first.

Beast, thank you! Although still not all that much flavor, the dry burned taste is gone. I used a toothpick too. Also, it now seems to use less juice. :) I make my own juice and will strengthen the flavors and see what happens.

Although suppliers can't test individual attys, they should include instructions for this adjustment. It would probably save many complaints and sell many more of the tanks.

Thanks again! :)
 
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