So I've been vaping for around a year. Claptons, fused claptons, catapilar's, staples, stovetops, I've done em all. I just recently got a ipv4, and for all my builds it's killer, but my temp control builds just aren't. Dual 28g ni200 10 wrap around a 3mm screwdriver. I've done this build several times and ohms range from .07-.1, I can't stop my cotton from burning. I've built with the atty off the box, put it on, set the resistance, turned it off, taken the atty off, repeat. Doesn't matter the temp, the cotton is burning (when I test with dry cotton the "dry coil" thing shows up). I'm using a mutation x v4 and it's either me or the atty. I made sure the leads are as secure as can be, the contact is clean, no luck. Could it be that I'm using cotton from CVS? Or am I doing something totally wrong. Any help is appreciated, thanks!!
Coil Builder Who Can't Temp Control
- Thread starter cloudsbroclouds
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I hav head that with nicke and titanium it is a pain in the ... to build because coils have to be done just right..not sure if you have seen it already but rip trippers has a vid on building these wires
Doesn't matter the temp?
You mean it even burns at the lowest temperature setting?
Is it measuring the resistance correctly?
well from what I've read cotton starts burning at around 450, I can't remember exactly. I was running it at 350 today and 30 joules and it was still burning. I believe it's reading resistance correctly. .07-.1 seems about right
Try a different atty. Sounds to me like the mod is working fine. If you don't have another rda to use, rebuild the mutation. Cotton shouldn't be a problem either. Make sure the connection is clean and the positive makes good contact. What happens when you dry fire without the cotton?
the first coils i built on it I got hot legs. After a couple tries nothing would happen other than the wire turning a goldish color. After wicking and vaping for like 3 hours the center of the cotton was turning black 
I thought hot legs at first but you would see that during the dry fire. lol. I don't know anyone that's a pro with nickel yet and I'm learning myself. Ni200 is such a low resistance wire that you could either be using too much power and scorching the juice which would defeat having temp control to begin with or the coil is just bad (as in it was a bad segment of wire).
It could be too much power, idk. I'll do some more research but thanks for all the input guys! Guess Ill have to get some advice from ol' rip lol
I'm a total noob when it comes to creating coils of ANY kind, let alone TC coils with NI200 wire. However with that said my 2nd "build" (wound and installed coil) on a STM and 1st try on a Lemo2 worked (and still working) perfectly.
Try ONE coil (nothing fancy dual coil, twisted wire, exc...). 5-7 wraps 28AWG on 3-4mm (I used a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the air hole on the Lemo2 and a screw driver for the STM).
Once wound you ought to be able to dry fire it WITHOUT wick and see that there are no hot spots (mod ought to go into "dry coil" protection - on some mods it has nothing to do with the temp setting but how fast the coil is ramping in temperature - a wet wick ought to act like a heat sink).
(again I'm a complete noob) I would then wick and prime it. I like starting with 10 Joules and 230F before hitting the fire button, if there is vapor production at all without a juice source the wick ought to dry out if you leave the mod firing long enough. I like to step the temperature up to like 375F while stepping the Joules up to where it is able to hold a stable temperature. Once at 375F fire until "dry coil" and you should be able to see if the wick is singed or burnt. Those that like higher temperatures can set higher temperatures and joules and (over the 417F burn temp of the cotton wick) and fire until "dry coil" protection and check their wick for damage.
The coils I've made fall into 0.12 and 0.17 ohms - not bad considering my "target" was a similar resistance that the Kanger and aftermarket Atlantis coils (which work flawlessly) ohm out at.
Maybe I'm just lucky, IDK. I just KISS.
Try ONE coil (nothing fancy dual coil, twisted wire, exc...). 5-7 wraps 28AWG on 3-4mm (I used a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the air hole on the Lemo2 and a screw driver for the STM).
Once wound you ought to be able to dry fire it WITHOUT wick and see that there are no hot spots (mod ought to go into "dry coil" protection - on some mods it has nothing to do with the temp setting but how fast the coil is ramping in temperature - a wet wick ought to act like a heat sink).
(again I'm a complete noob) I would then wick and prime it. I like starting with 10 Joules and 230F before hitting the fire button, if there is vapor production at all without a juice source the wick ought to dry out if you leave the mod firing long enough. I like to step the temperature up to like 375F while stepping the Joules up to where it is able to hold a stable temperature. Once at 375F fire until "dry coil" and you should be able to see if the wick is singed or burnt. Those that like higher temperatures can set higher temperatures and joules and (over the 417F burn temp of the cotton wick) and fire until "dry coil" protection and check their wick for damage.
The coils I've made fall into 0.12 and 0.17 ohms - not bad considering my "target" was a similar resistance that the Kanger and aftermarket Atlantis coils (which work flawlessly) ohm out at.
Maybe I'm just lucky, IDK. I just KISS.
Try a single coil build. I've heard that it is extremely difficult to get double nickel coil builds to work right.
So this morning I did a twisted 28g ni200 single coil and trapped the leads under the screws, after wrapping them around 1 full turn. It's fine at 330 degrees but any more and the center of the coil turns a brownish charred color. I want a warmer vape. I have side airflow closed and one bottom airflow plugged and the other barely open. 30j and 330 degrees isn't cutting it. Any ideas?
Search you Tube for NI200 coil builds you should find a lot of videos on this. Hope this helped.
Are you doing compressed coils or spaced coils?
With temperature controlled builds you want to be wrapping spaced coils.
With temperature controlled builds you want to be wrapping spaced coils.
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