coil types ?

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suprtrkr

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Kanthal and Nichrome (Ni80 or NiCr) are "resistance wires," that is they are intended to resist the passage of electric current and thereby make heat (I²R losses, if that means anything to you.) They are commonly used to manufacture electrically resistant heating elements in addition to vape coils; which latter are a form of electrically resistant heating element. ;) "Kanthal" is a proprietary brand name for a specific Iron-Chromium-Aluminum (FeCrAl) alloy. "Nichrome" or Ni80 are a generic term for a variety of Nickel-Chromium alloys. Kanthal is the granddaddy of vape coils, and probably still the most common wire. Some people, including me, can taste a slight metallic component on the flavor of juices vaporized with either type of wire.

Nickel (Ni200 or pure Nickel), Titanium (Ti) and Stainless Steel (Stainless grades are indicated by SSXXX where the Xs display the alloy viz. SS316) are Temperature Control or TC wires. This is because they exhibit what the cognoscenti call a "flat TCR curve." All metals conduct electricity. Some do this better than others, which is why copper is a better electric wire material than steel or aluminum. The ability to conduct electricity in all metals is affected by the temperature of the wire; the cooler, the less resistance. A "flat TCR curve" means the wire in question varies its ability to conduct in a very even manner versus temperature; a rise of X% temp increases resistance by Y%, and this stays constant or nearly so across the relevant set of temperatures. Because of this, it is very easy to build an electronic TC circuit, simply by measuring the voltage crossing the coil while it is firing. As voltage decreases during the puff, the temp of the wire is increasing by some amount, which can be determined by a calibration program. Thus, TC mods work by measuring this voltage and, the wire having arrived at the set temperature (voltage decrease), the mod then pulses the current applied to the coil, letting the coil cool a bit before applying more power, and so forth, to maintain the temp. Some circuit designs are better at this than others; generally you get what you pay for. Finally, Stainless had the additional benefit of being able to be used as a TC wire, or a resistance wire (TC mode versus Wattage mode on the mod).

Ni200 is about the worst wire I have ever used. I don't know anybody who uses it regularly. It only makes the list because it was the first wire used in the earliest TC circuits, before being replaced by Ti and SS. Ni tastes, and smells; it can only be wound in spaced (not contact) coils. Further it can make some nasty outgas chemicals if it is dry-burnt, meaning it is not safe to check the heating evenness of your coil before wicking and soaking with juice. If you really want to try some, I have a couple part-rolls I would be happy to donate, but I don't recommend it.

Ti wire I have very little experience with. Ni was so bad, I gave up TC and went back to strict wattage mode with Kanthal before it became available, and I did not try TC again until after Stainless was common. It is supposed to be very clean tasting, meaning you can't taste the wire at all. It is also expensive, like all titanium based products, and harder to wind in coils as wire size increases and coil diameter decreases; all of which follows from Ti being very hard and brittle if not annealed.

Stainless is simply the best vape wire I have yet found. I have a great deal of experience with it both in TC and wattage modes. I use it pretty much exclusively now. It has no flavor or smell I can detect and lasts a lot longer in the mod than Kanthal because it can be burnt clean (heated and scraped with a probe) every time you change wicks. I usually use wattage modes, despite my collection of TC mods, but probably because I started with mechs and am used to building coils to make the vape I want. I don't need no stinking circuit to control it for me :) I also use SS wire in my mechs. I use it for everything.

Hope this helps.
 

AXIOM_1

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    Kanthal and Nichrome (Ni80 or NiCr) are "resistance wires," that is they are intended to resist the passage of electric current and thereby make heat (I²R losses, if that means anything to you.) They are commonly used to manufacture electrically resistant heating elements in addition to vape coils; which latter are a form of electrically resistant heating element. ;) "Kanthal" is a proprietary brand name for a specific Iron-Chromium-Aluminum (FeCrAl) alloy. "Nichrome" or Ni80 are a generic term for a variety of Nickel-Chromium alloys. Kanthal is the granddaddy of vape coils, and probably still the most common wire. Some people, including me, can taste a slight metallic component on the flavor of juices vaporized with either type of wire.

    Nickel (Ni200 or pure Nickel), Titanium (Ti) and Stainless Steel (Stainless grades are indicated by SSXXX where the Xs display the alloy viz. SS316) are Temperature Control or TC wires. This is because they exhibit what the cognoscenti call a "flat TCR curve." All metals conduct electricity. Some do this better than others, which is why copper is a better electric wire material than steel or aluminum. The ability to conduct electricity in all metals is affected by the temperature of the wire; the cooler, the less resistance. A "flat TCR curve" means the wire in question varies its ability to conduct in a very even manner versus temperature; a rise of X% temp increases resistance by Y%, and this stays constant or nearly so across the relevant set of temperatures. Because of this, it is very easy to build an electronic TC circuit, simply by measuring the voltage crossing the coil while it is firing. As voltage decreases during the puff, the temp of the wire is increasing by some amount, which can be determined by a calibration program. Thus, TC mods work by measuring this voltage and, the wire having arrived at the set temperature (voltage decrease), the mod then pulses the current applied to the coil, letting the coil cool a bit before applying more power, and so forth, to maintain the temp. Some circuit designs are better at this than others; generally you get what you pay for. Finally, Stainless had the additional benefit of being able to be used as a TC wire, or a resistance wire (TC mode versus Wattage mode on the mod).

    Ni200 is about the worst wire I have ever used. I don't know anybody who uses it regularly. It only makes the list because it was the first wire used in the earliest TC circuits, before being replaced by Ti and SS. Ni tastes, and smells; it can only be wound in spaced (not contact) coils. Further it can make some nasty outgas chemicals if it is dry-burnt, meaning it is not safe to check the heating evenness of your coil before wicking and soaking with juice. If you really want to try some, I have a couple part-rolls I would be happy to donate, but I don't recommend it.

    Ti wire I have very little experience with. Ni was so bad, I gave up TC and went back to strict wattage mode with Kanthal before it became available, and I did not try TC again until after Stainless was common. It is supposed to be very clean tasting, meaning you can't taste the wire at all. It is also expensive, like all titanium based products, and harder to wind in coils as wire size increases and coil diameter decreases; all of which follows from Ti being very hard and brittle if not annealed.

    Stainless is simply the best vape wire I have yet found. I have a great deal of experience with it both in TC and wattage modes. I use it pretty much exclusively now. It has no flavor or smell I can detect and lasts a lot longer in the mod than Kanthal because it can be burnt clean (heated and scraped with a probe) every time you change wicks. I usually use wattage modes, despite my collection of TC mods, but probably because I started with mechs and am used to building coils to make the vape I want. I don't need no stinking circuit to control it for me :) I also use SS wire in my mechs. I use it for everything.

    Hope this helps.

    Very good post !
     
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    IMFire3605

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    Kanthal A1 - Pretty basic wire made of various ingredients in its alloy, ceramic, alluminum, iron. Probably one of the stiffer wire alloys we use, with a high heat threshold before melting point. Can only be used in power mode and takes a lot of abuse. It also has one of the higher resistance per inch/foot ratios of any other wire, easy to work with especially after annealing it before working it (heating up to glowing softens it up a bit), heats up slower and cools down quicker than NiChrome.

    NiChrome (60 or 80) - Nickel and Chromium alloy, the number signifies how much Chromium is in the alloy by percentage I believe. NiChr is a bit softer than Kanthal, making it easier to work with, however it also has a lower melting point so dry firing it to clean it or tweak it can cause it to pop easier than Kanthal. Most factory made coil heads use NiChrome. It heats up faster, cools down slower, and has lower resistance so you can add 2 maybe 3 extra wraps to match a Kanthal coil in resistance and add more surface area. It also has a bit more of a cleaner taste than Kanthal, and like Kanthal is Power/Watts Mode only.

    Stainless Steel - This is a very flexible wire alloy, can be run in either power, temp, or mech/unregulated usage. Has a lower resistance per inch/foot than NiChrome, with the durability of Kanthal so can take a lot of abuse. It has a fairly predictable TCR curve value that is lower than Kanthal and NiChr so thus can be used in TC mode. I've found it doesn't work to well in contact coil design as it produces unpredictable hot spots and be harsh so thuse works very excellently in a spaced coil design.

    Titanium T1 - This is a pretty stiff, similar to Kanthal wire, but, it is not suggested to use it in anything but a Temp Control usage, its TCR value is low and predictable so thus works in TC mode so well. Down side is if you get it to hot it can produce Titanium-Dioxide which is not healthy, so a bigger incentive to use in TC only mode. It has a pretty low resistance per inch/foot ratio similar to SS316L. I experimented with Ti1 and found that it gave no flavor at all no matter what I did, while others claimed it had a cleaner taste than Ni200 in TC mode. Everyone is different, and due to its stiffness and hard to use I transitioned to SS316L for TC application.

    Nickel Ni200 - This is a very soft Nickel Alloy, even when tempered. It has a very low melting point, very low, very predictable TCR curve, and the lowest resistance per inch/foot. Ni200 was first used about 3 to 4 years ago fused to the legs of coils so the only resistance was at the coils themselves, very useful in rebuildables that needed very long legs to assemble them. Evolv started messing with it in a TC application with the first DNA40 boards, and due to is such low melting point and even lower oxidizing temperature, application outside TC or as coil legs is not suggested, I've popped Ni200 coils that were fully saturated at 550F very easily due to heat and the air pressure of me vaping.

    Myself I use Kanthal A1 in rebuilding protank coil heads, RTAs/RDAs/RDTAs I use NiChr80 most often, in TC mode I use SS316L.
     

    AXIOM_1

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    Kanthal A1 - Pretty basic wire made of various ingredients in its alloy, ceramic, alluminum, iron. Probably one of the stiffer wire alloys we use, with a high heat threshold before melting point. Can only be used in power mode and takes a lot of abuse. It also has one of the higher resistance per inch/foot ratios of any other wire, easy to work with especially after annealing it before working it (heating up to glowing softens it up a bit), heats up slower and cools down quicker than NiChrome.

    NiChrome (60 or 80) - Nickel and Chromium alloy, the number signifies how much Chromium is in the alloy by percentage I believe. NiChr is a bit softer than Kanthal, making it easier to work with, however it also has a lower melting point so dry firing it to clean it or tweak it can cause it to pop easier than Kanthal. Most factory made coil heads use NiChrome. It heats up faster, cools down slower, and has lower resistance so you can add 2 maybe 3 extra wraps to match a Kanthal coil in resistance and add more surface area. It also has a bit more of a cleaner taste than Kanthal, and like Kanthal is Power/Watts Mode only.

    Stainless Steel - This is a very flexible wire alloy, can be run in either power, temp, or mech/unregulated usage. Has a lower resistance per inch/foot than NiChrome, with the durability of Kanthal so can take a lot of abuse. It has a fairly predictable TCR curve value that is lower than Kanthal and NiChr so thus can be used in TC mode. I've found it doesn't work to well in contact coil design as it produces unpredictable hot spots and be harsh so thuse works very excellently in a spaced coil design.

    Titanium T1 - This is a pretty stiff, similar to Kanthal wire, but, it is not suggested to use it in anything but a Temp Control usage, its TCR value is low and predictable so thus works in TC mode so well. Down side is if you get it to hot it can produce Titanium-Dioxide which is not healthy, so a bigger incentive to use in TC only mode. It has a pretty low resistance per inch/foot ratio similar to SS316L. I experimented with Ti1 and found that it gave no flavor at all no matter what I did, while others claimed it had a cleaner taste than Ni200 in TC mode. Everyone is different, and due to its stiffness and hard to use I transitioned to SS316L for TC application.

    Nickel Ni200 - This is a very soft Nickel Alloy, even when tempered. It has a very low melting point, very low, very predictable TCR curve, and the lowest resistance per inch/foot. Ni200 was first used about 3 to 4 years ago fused to the legs of coils so the only resistance was at the coils themselves, very useful in rebuildables that needed very long legs to assemble them. Evolv started messing with it in a TC application with the first DNA40 boards, and due to is such low melting point and even lower oxidizing temperature, application outside TC or as coil legs is not suggested, I've popped Ni200 coils that were fully saturated at 550F very easily due to heat and the air pressure of me vaping.

    Myself I use Kanthal A1 in rebuilding protank coil heads, RTAs/RDAs/RDTAs I use NiChr80 most often, in TC mode I use SS316L.

    Another excellent post on wire!
     

    vapdivrr

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    I can taste about as much difference between coil wires ad I can between Organic Japanese Cotton and that gauze at Rite Aid Pharmacy.
    Same here. if there are differences in flavor, they are slight.....

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
     

    zoiDman

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    NiChrome (60 or 80) - Nickel and Chromium alloy, the number signifies how much Chromium is in the alloy by percentage I believe. ...

    NiChrome 80 is 80% Nickel and 20% Chromium.

    NiChrome 60 is 60% Nickel, 20% Chromium, 18% Iron, 1% Manganese and 1% Silicon

    Else a Very Good Write-Up.

    :)
     

    IMFire3605

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    NiChrome 80 is 80% Nickel and 20% Chromium.

    NiChrome 60 is 60% Nickel, 20% Chromium, 18% Iron, 1% Manganese and 1% Silicon

    Else a Very Good Write-Up.

    :)

    I knew it was one or the other, can't always be right when an old mind tries to think and choose the right answer in a dusty mental rollo-dex
     

    Gramdogg

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    I would Strongly Suggest that you try Both.

    Coils or Coil Wire is Not Expensive. No reason to not see which You like better.
    FINE! :) I got a enough Ni80, and different awg kanthol to last till the slow boat from China can bring me more Ni80 if I like it more. I can always sell the SS316L at like 4x mark up locally anyways... local shop had Lemo 2 for like $3.75 USD, almost wanted to buy them all and sell them myself lol.
     

    suprtrkr

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    FINE! :) I got a enough Ni80, and different awg kanthol to last till the slow boat from China can bring me more Ni80 if I like it more. I can always sell the SS316L at like 4x mark up locally anyways... local shop had Lemo 2 for like $3.75 USD, almost wanted to buy them all and sell them myself lol.
    I have moved on to freer breathing attys, but I still have my old Lemo 2s. I think I have three of them. Nice atty indeed :)
     
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    Gramdogg

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    I have moved on to freer breathing attys, but I still have my old Lemo 2s. I think I have three of them. Nice atty indeed :)
    I was just lucky, went to get an old evod cause I been waiting almost 2 months for one to get here. I use them as a pocket stealth vape, seen them for the same price. Threw some 32 awg on it till evod gets here but wide open seems about perfect for restricted DTL for me. Looks I'll get from vapers when the vapor comes out with that massive tank on a box mod vaping 32 awg at 9w is worth it lol. Had to switch out that drip tip though... like MTL'ng a RDA! It'll make a good back up tank too while I wait for the slow boat next time something breaks.
     
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    suprtrkr

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    I was just lucky, went to get an old evod cause I been waiting almost 2 months for one to get here. I use them as a pocket stealth vape, seen them for the same price. Threw some 32 awg on it till evod gets here but wide open seems about perfect for restricted DTL for me. Looks I'll get from vapers when the vapor comes out with that massive tank on a box mod vaping 32 awg at 9w is worth it lol. Had to switch out that drip tip though... like MTL'ng a RDA! It'll make a good back up tank too while I wait for the slow boat next time something breaks.
    Aye, so it is. The single coil issue put me off at first, until I tried one. I am a dualie kind of guy. But I tried it, and yes, very nice indeed. I started back along, the first RTA i managed to successfully coil and use was the old Fogger V2. I stayed with them until V6 (skip the 5), but I still wanted better air. And along came the Lemo. It was like night and day. I left them fairly quickly-- the day I found the Indulgence tank by the Mutation folks-- and have since moved on from them. But I still keep them and, once in a while, I build one and vape it.
     
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