Condensation

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WereBear

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I love dripping, especially with my Velocity clones. One minor inconvenience I have with dripping though is condensation. No matter what rda I've tried I end up with a film of condensed juice under the atty (with just a 1/2 drop or so in the 510 well.) I'm sure they're not leaking. I don't over drip. Yet every day I have to unscrew the atty and dab up the juice.

Are there any practical ways to avoid this?
 

VHRB2014

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Iv had a few 510 RDA connections that leaked after a while. I mean plastic and metal don`t necessarily seal well at all time`s. I take them completely part, and find out what size o-ring will fix the problem. Its something you have to think through a bit, find out where the best place to put it is, and the right size, ect.
 

TheRussianVaper

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I love dripping, especially with my Velocity clones. One minor inconvenience I have with dripping though is condensation. No matter what rda I've tried I end up with a film of condensed juice under the atty (with just a 1/2 drop or so in the 510 well.) I'm sure they're not leaking. I don't over drip. Yet every day I have to unscrew the atty and dab up the juice.

Are there any practical ways to avoid this?
Usually I continue inhaling after I have stopped pressing the fire button, that way I inhale all of the vapor and minimize any juice escaping from air channels.
 

sparkky1

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The Velocity RDA and ones that mimic it were essentially designed for the builders that wanted to step up there game ( performance ) with exotic low ohm coils and high heat / watts, bigger deck, taller bigger chamber and last but not least, In a bottom airflow design leakage is often a problem.
Have you tried a single coil set up, mounting the coil vertically with an rda that you can close one side ?
 

jambi

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Are there any practical ways to avoid this?

A very practical and cheap way to avoid it is to use 510/510 adapters. Gets the atty off the mod and up into the air, and has the bonus of saving the threads on your mod from wear and tear. Also, no more circular scratches from toppers rubbing against it.
 
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WereBear

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A very practical and cheap way to avoid it is to use 510/510 adapters. Gets the atty off the mod and up into the air, and has the bonus of saving the threads on your mod from wear and tear. Also, no more circular scratches from toppers rubbing against it.
That would work but it would look fugly. ;)
What would be great is a 510 catch cup that you could screw onto the bottom of drippers and would sit flush on the mod.
 
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WereBear

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Vapor condenses - is physics, mon :)
Airplane or atty, anything with moisture and a temperature differential will have condensation.

Seems we've swapped the ashtrays full of cigarete butts for bins full of used kleenex or kitchen towels.

I can live with that :)
I hear ya, but this is the 21st century...we can send peeps to Mars but we can't stop condensation under our drippers? ;)
 

juicynoos

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reduced chambers, flavor chasers, smaller bore drip tips...you gonna get con-densation!
only rda's with wide bore or chuff caps don't seem to suffer the same way.
best advice already given, continue to draw after releasing the fire button...
essentially you suck it up or suck it up.
Sorry for the pun :)
 
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WereBear

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Usually I continue inhaling after I have stopped pressing the fire button, that way I inhale all of the vapor and minimize any juice escaping from air channels.
It's not coming from the airflow. As far as I can tell it's coming from the point were the bell cap meets the atty base as vapor that is re-condensing.
 

jambi

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That would work but it would look fugly. ;)
What would be great is a 510 catch cup that you could screw onto the bottom of drippers and would sit flush on the mod.
Please invent one and reserve me 5. I'll be your first customer. :)

But yeah, it's a lifelong problem for me. I often just blindly fly with what works without ever stopping to consider aesthetics. (Wife excepted...she's a Georgia peach, that one).
 
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