Confirmation on battery safety?

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mamabear15

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Yes, as long as you are quite familiar with everything that goes into that. Just make sure you look at continuous amp rating, not pulse rating - that's a common marketing trick some brands use. Past that, I'm gonna go ahead and save myself some typing and just tag @Baditude right now lol click that name and then click "blogs", you'll find battery safety info we all trust!
 

Mooch

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    I'm going to say, provisionally, that the answer is no.
    There are aspects of using a mech safely beyond current ratings and pure battery stuff. Like never using an atomizer with a spring-loaded 510 pin, or one that doesn't protrude enough, with a hybrid-top mech.

    I completely agree with @mamabear15 regarding just using the continuous ratings. I've put together a table of the current values that are safe to use for the batteries I've tested. It might help you sort through some of the exaggerated ratings a lot of batteries have:

    18650 Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With | E-Cigarette Forum
     

    mamabear15

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    @Mooch also has a blog on battery tests he conducts to narrow down what batteries to look at.
    I almost tagged @Mooch too but took it out at the last second cuz I was afraid of overloading a newbie with all the testing info!! Ha-ha. Sorry Mooch, please know I am addicted to your blog (and my roomie can verify, as she heard me ramble for 20 min the other day about your posts on the new 25r vs the old ones ha-ha) we love ya, man!
     

    mamabear15

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    Yeah, I am familiar with what goes into finding out how many amps I'm trying to pull from the battery. I have an imren imr "38a" 18650 (pretty sure one of those batteries you were talking about that list pulse rating). How do I find out the max continuous amp rating?
    Look at that link at the end of Mooch's post. It'll tell ya :)
     

    IMFire3605

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    The Purple Imrens like the Purple Efest, being no one really knows what battery is wrapped under the purple wrapper they could be a D lot Sony VTC4 to a Samsung 25R. They are high drain, but most lean toward safety and estimate everything off like a Samsung 25R which is 20A. Think Mooch did a test on them and confirmed most of it. I have a pair of them I use in my Sig Mini 30W, but I don't use them in my mechs because I don't trust them for that application, I got Sony VTC3 and VTC4s I do use for sub and super-sub-ohm mech vaping.
     

    Mooch

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    Yeah, I am familiar with what goes into finding out how many amps I'm trying to pull from the battery. I have an imren imr "38a" 18650 (pretty sure one of those batteries you were talking about that list pulse rating). How do I find out the max continuous amp rating?

    A google search might turn up some discharge graphs.
    I've only tested the 40A yellow 2000mAh and 40A purple 2500mAh Imren's so far. Both were about 20A continuous.

    Wait...I might have misunderstood you. Did you want to test them yourself?
     

    NealBJr

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    I'm going to say, provisionally, that the answer is no.
    There are aspects of using a mech safely beyond current ratings and pure battery stuff. Like never using an atomizer with a spring-loaded 510 pin, or one that doesn't protrude enough, with a hybrid-top mech.

    I completely agree with @mamabear15 regarding just using the continuous ratings. I've put together a table of the current values that are safe to use for the batteries I've tested. It might help you sort through some of the exaggerated ratings a lot of batteries have:

    18650 Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With | E-Cigarette Forum


    Yes, Not to mention.. locking rings, Mod cleaning, battery maintenance (charging, marrying, wrapping quality, contact divots... button springs, polarity issues, switch types/mofsets, and a tonne more. There is a lot more, but I wouldn't let it discourage you. Just feel free to ask ANY question, no matter how silly it may seem. Usually the silliest ones can be very important. Knowledge of how an ecig works and what can go wrong can go a long way in safety.
     

    Hans Wermhat

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    0.5 ohm is plenty low to go on any atty. If you build it right, it's a warm, satisfying vape that will make decent clouds. Set that as your low mark until you have some experience coiling and get some VTC4's. They are great batteries and will keep up with you through your progress. Make sure you have on ohm meter and check every new build before you try to fire it. :thumb:
     

    suprtrkr

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    There is actually a good bit more to learn. How to keep it clean, always set the lock ring, stay far, far away from faux-hybrid types, you name it. But you have the key issue down. Keep from building beyond the amp capacity of your battery, don't short it out, and the disasters you do incur will be of a more minor nature :) Everybody-- everybody-- sets it down without the lock ring. Once.
     

    edyle

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    Am I right in thinking that, I can safely use a mech mod, so long as I don't go over the max output current?

    I use kick modules in my mechs.
    $7.53 Authentic Sigelei Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod - 5-15W at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
    1670801-6.jpg


    • Matching with atomizer in a resistance of 1.5ohm-3.0ohm
    • Variable wattage: 5W-15W in 1W increment or decrement
    • POR: After power on reset, the KICK will get into the alert status if no atomizer installed
    • Low voltage protection (below 3.2V)
    • Low resistance protection (below 1.0ohm)
    • Short circuit protection
    • Match with any kind of SIGELEI Telescope, and most full mechanical mods
     

    mamabear15

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    What is a faux hybrid?
    Pretty much anything claiming to be a hybrid while still having any kind of 510 threading at all. Ex: SMPL claims to be a hybrid, because it has no center pin, yet has a 510 opening to be topped by "any" atty...and is a disaster waiting to happen. As opposed to, example, Tree of Life mod, true hybrid...
     

    mamabear15

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    Yes, it is more dangerous than others. For a safe, "true" hybrid, you need a mod that lets you screw on a 20x1 threaded atty with no top cap involved. Among other things, this eliminates the question of whether you'll notice when that center pin works its way back upward, or whether you might screw it too far out and autofire, or etc etc etc... Part of what we deal with on mechs is the realistic assessment of "I'm human, what am I likely to ever ever do imperfectly and how can I make sure I'm still safe if this happens?" -- and time/usage just increases that truth -- they say unasked-for opinions always stink, but if I were you, I'd find a cheap clone of a nemesis or stingray for $15-20 and use it in standard mode awhile, before upgrading to a true hybrid if that's your wish!
     
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