Copper 510 Replacement Screws?

[sig-cmt]

Specifically, longer variants than what typically exists on adjustable versions. Looking to reduce wobble and the screw from driving back into the 510 when installing on a hybrid top cap. McMaster-Carr does not appear to stock copper screws. Any online sources available?

 

[RuDawg7890]

You could try http://fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html
He might have what you're looking for. You can email him too, he was very helpful to me before.

 

[sig-cmt]

Contacted. Awesome.

 

[sig-cmt]

The original 510 positive contact on the Velocity is M2-0.4 x 4mm. I tried a zinc plated Grade 5 M2-0.4 x 6mm and it is a bit long. So the perfect size would be M2-0.4 x 5mm.

 

[RuDawg7890]

You could make it shorter with a hacksaw and/or file.

 

[sig-cmt]

You could make it shorter with a hacksaw and/or file.

True, though I would prefer copper screws over zinc plated steel. Waiting on word from FDV on whether or not they can source M2-0.4 x 5mm copper (or plated copper alloy) cheesehead screws...

 

[Bad Ninja]

Try Fastenall.
Contact them with the specific size and see if they can accommodate ya.

 

[RuDawg7890]

I don't know why I didn't think of that as a suggestion. That's were I got grubs for my Zenith.
McMaster Carr might help too.

 

[sig-cmt]

Fastenal is unable to source M2-0.4 5mm copper screws. They do have M2-0.4 5mm nickel-plated brass screws with a minimum order of 400 pieces at 13 cents per piece. I will probably move on this Monday (small price to pay for an increase in safety margin) and have 390 extra screws available.

 

[sig-cmt]

Avid Vaper has a limited stock of copper M2-0.4 6mm screws available. These screws will also fit the VLS Vulcan HS so that it may be used with direct-to-battery mods.

 

[Froth]

This probably isn't what you want to hear and you probably already know but small copper machine screws can be pretty difficult to find in specific sizes, from what I have gathered it seems that many places either machine them in house or have them machined in bulk for their own specific use, I was going to recommend brass but it appears you have already reached the same conclusion, brass is much easier to find.

I needed a specific copper 510 screw as well for a clone Zenith V2, nothing I could find in copper was the correct pitch and length so I decided to go a different route, I made one out of a solid copper rivet. Weaver Leather Assorted Copper Rivets and Burrs (#9) - For Life Out Here I was in a situation where it was actually easier for me to make two screws out of those rivets, using the correct thread-die on the shaft and cutting a flat-head in to the rivet base after I reduced the size. For what it's worth I have even used those copper rivets to entirely replace a 510 center post with a one-piece unit, they can work for numerous vape applications if you've got an open mind and some tools.

 

[sig-cmt]

Great reference material, Froth.

 

[sig-cmt]

Follow up: Velocity from the very latest production run (as of this post) from Avid Vaper on the left. Fully seated copper positive is M2-0.4 4mm. Velocity from a previous production run on the right. Fully seated copper positive (filed down from an M2-0.4 6mm copper screw provided by Avid Vaper) is M2-0.4 5mm.

 

[Froth]

So the longer screw solves what problem if you don't mind me asking? Are you simply trying to have the positive copper connection extend further from the base or does the screw get pushed in to the insulator over time?

 

[sig-cmt]

The Velocity on the right was shipped with less of a protrusion than what is currently pictured on the left. Damaged insulator? Based on the images I sent them, Avid Vaper did not seem to think so. Rather than return the rda for closer inspection and under the belief that the issue stemmed from that of tolerance ranging, I sought to lengthen the positive protrusion in an attempt to increase the margin of safe use, whether it be from the inadvertent use of a dented cell, or from cam-in due to the insulator being damaged. Based on side-by-side comparisons under 4x magnification, the original insulator does not appear to be damaged in any way, shape or form.

 

[Froth]

Gotcha.

You're probably correct that it stemmed from slight variations in manufacturing tolerances, I've experienced that myself. Since I only use direct to battery style mods what I've done recently after a trip to the hobby shop was pick up some small copper tubing and some needle files so I can make my own little copper washers for spacers, this way I don't have to be bothered with looking for different screws or even making a screw as I can usually retain the factory screw using a small 1mm copper washer.