Crazy questions for a pro - To Make RDA

[ironmunky]

I've been a CNC Machinist for the last 4-5 years. Run CNC Mills and CNC Lathes. At work they don't really care if we build on our own time, or even on their time if works slow. I would really like to start building my own DIY atomizers , think they're called RDAs or something? Idk, this is completely new to me. I know nothing about electricity, but if I have blue prints I have no doubt I could build my own. Maybe with a little practice and learning I can even design my own. A few questions for someone who does it themselves, and some may be dumb lol.

Are the DIY atomizers solid metal or is there wiring hidden in the bases or something? (not talking about the coils)

Anyone ever see blueprints for builds?

I've never seen one in person, but I assume they would be lathed out of stainless steel, the positive and negative pins would be welded and the some holes for the coil wires and turning screws would be milled. Is that basically the idea?

And the pins should be made out of copper or maybe even silver right?

 

[steved5600]

Most all and all good RDA's are solid mostly stainless Steel as it is a non reactive metal. Most use food grade Stainless steel. 99% of them have the center pin of the 510 connector extending up through the atty with some kind of insulator as that is the Positive lead. Most atomizers including the RDA's and RBA's are 22mm to 23mm in diameter. The new ones coming out are 28mm so they work on the newer bigger mods. The other connections on the atomizer is the negative and they are the outer part. The ones that are the easiest to work with have posts some are milled in and some are a post that is press fitted in the atty. The other thing that good ones have in common is an adjustable air flow. The 510 connection is 7 mm .5 mm and I believe the drip tip hole is 9mm(check to be sure). There is usually a small cup built into the RDA to hold wick and excess juice and a vape chamber that can accommodate 1 or more coils. The air holes generally match up with the coil locations. I Most RDA's the top presses on to the bottom which has a tight fit or at least two o rings to make sure the top stays on. Two Orings is desirable as it gives it stability. The ones that I like have a hole in the top of the posts that the coil wire goes into and a screw that holds these wires in place. The holes have to be the same level or when you tighten the screw it will cut of the wire. The screws should be blunt so as to not pinch off the wire. Some use a thumb screw do this and some have the screw tighten the wire that is wrapped around the wire. The kind that you have to wrap the wire around are harder to do multiple coil on IMO. I prefer tops that are not flat but more of a conical shape. The best insulators are made of silicone as they are less apt to react to heat. Hope this helps. I am in the opposite position. I can do the drawings but not the build. Visio is an easy to learn drawing software btw. I believe it will save it in autocad format but am not sure.

 

[steved5600]

Oh by holes have to be at the same level i am saying on each post they have to be perfectly perpendicular to the shaft or the screw will cut the wire when you tighten it also that hole should be the bottom of the thread for the screw or the wire will get cut when the screw is tightened.

 

[Stosh]

I would recommend you stop by the Atomizer Mods Forum. There will be past discussions of RDA and Genesis type builds, with materials used, and designs used.

You can also ask questions, explaining that you're a machinist, and discuss what others have tried. The original "Genny" was first designed and perfected in that forum.

 

[Myk]

Buy a >$10 RDA clone and tear it apart (reverse engineering).
Gennie would be easier because they break down without any tearing apart.

If your machines don't do metric you'll have to buy the dies, 7mmx.5mm, you can get them on Amazon.