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jayx

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Jan 19, 2015
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Hello

I just bought the Dark Horse(authentic) and it keeps shorting out when i build dual coils for some reason, I built single coils and it works perfectly, i tried smaller diameters as well as bigger ones with the dual coils and they all end up the same, either check atomizer or shorted. I'm using 24gauge kanthal A1 wire, with a sony VTC4 battery at about .3 ohms on my vaporshark rdna30 and also tried it on my nemesis mod with a protected eagletac 3100mAh battery. Not sure where the problem is, i've checked everything and made sure no wires are touching anything.

The dark horse just came in yesterday so if we can figure out if there's a way to fix this that'd be great otherwise i'll try to have them ship me another one. Any advice would be appreciated

EDIT:By shorting i mean on my rdna it is saying "shorted" or "check atomizer"

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smacksy

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I have the dark horse too but had to adjust the spring loaded pin in my IPV3 a little to make solid contact on the Atty..currently running dual parallel 26g at .27 ohms with no problems..also I use a center post build putting the coils directly in front of the center post on each side allowing cotton to be centered in the juice well (deck)...it also puts a little space between the coils and the posts eliminating possible shorts between the two..BTW, its a great RDA! one of my favorites..sorry I couldn't help more..
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crxess

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.5 is the recommended low
.4 you got lucky
.3 should never happen

Your Mech will not run it because the Amp limitation is likely tripping the chip. Soon it will lock and you can toss the otherwise good battery in the Can.

Not sure why you are messing with things you don't seem to understand. Just hope you do not get hurt in the process.

What people are trying to point out is - if the Reader shows the Resistance - it is NOT SHORTING
 
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DomDoobie

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I have an authentic Dark Horse RDA and so does my son. No problems and we love them. Using 5 wrap 24 gauge Kanthal in my sons Ragenrock copper mod never a hint of trouble. Had to play with it on my SMY God Mod. 12 wrap 24 gauge Kanthal kept reading low resistance. Tried a few different builds. Same thing. Funny thing was I'm using the 12 wrap now same one that said low resistance. What got it to work was I put the drill bit through the coils and manipulated the coils closer to the posts. Then it came in reading .51 and worked fine. Dont know if that helps but good luck !
 

DomDoobie

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Forgot to say I'm using dual coils in my God Mod. Was reading below .5 which the God Mod will not work below .5. When I manipulated the coils and got it to read .51 everything worked fine. So it looks like crxss is correct. You need it to be within the limitations of your device or it will not work. Dual coils are a little tricky on regulated devices.
 

aki917

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Jan 21, 2015
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It is adjustable but i'm not sure if that's the case since the rdna is actually reading it as shorted
Maybe ur ohm is too low for your mod or make sure your coils are not getting shorted on the post. If they touch the center or the ground side (on the coil) it will be shorted. Also I make my coil 0.5~0.3 ohm most of time with most of my rda (dark horse, atomic, manta v2 ect.) Works on sigilei 100w+ due to it can go down to 0.1ohm if u have mechanical mod it should fire on that.
 
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jamtwo

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Yeah, .3 is too low for the rDNA 30. I don't even go that low on my rDNA 40. It's only a 30 watt mod. Also, that 24g kanthal, at .3 ohms, and only 30 watts, would take forever to heat up if it did at all, it takes atty least 5 seconds at like 35 watts from what I've experienced. Build a bigger coil or go to 26g wire if you don't want to use 28g, which will work great with the rDNA 30.
 

smacksy

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P.S. get rid of the Phillips head screws and put in the Allen screws. I found they work better. The phillips head screws don't tighten down far enough on thinner wires. The head of the screw stops at the top of the posts. The Allen screws will tighten down much much better !
Allen head tightened down alright, lol ..so much it cut the 24g coil leg easily..Phillips head didn't cut the wire and I'm glad I didn't throw them away..they work good for my 26g builds too...just sayin

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crxess

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Allen head tightened down alright, lol ..so much it cut the 24g coil leg easily..Phillips head didn't cut the wire and I'm glad I didn't throw them away..they work good for my 26g builds too...just sayin

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Tight is tight.......................to tight is broken :)
 

smacksy

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Tight is tight.......................to tight is broken :)
That's funny, lol
But I've found the stock Phillip head screws allow me tighten down enough without the ohms bouncing all over the place without cutting the wire..on my mech shown here stable ohms is important..I can't bump up the wattage like I can on my IPV3's..personal choice is using the Phillip head screws..lol
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T4T3Z0R

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.5 is the recommended low
.4 you got lucky
.3 should never happen

Your Mech will not run it because the Amp limitation is likely tripping the chip. Soon it will lock and you can toss the otherwise good battery in the Can.

Not sure why you are messing with things you don't seem to understand. Just hope you do not get hurt in the process.

What people are trying to point out is - if the Reader shows the Resistance - it is NOT SHORTING

This is your answer right here. and the rdna is saying "short" because thats what it reads if the resistance is to low. It doesnt need to be a dead short to read as a short
 

amtseung

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Sep 22, 2014
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I put in a massive dual clapton just now (28ga around 24ga) wrapped around a 3/16" drill bit in my Dark Horse clone, which sits atop a Sigelei 100W box. It shorted for a bit because I forgot the inner diameter of the barrel is smaller than the inner lip of the deck. After I sorted that out, it chucked clouds so hard I coughed for the first time in a long while. Do check that your coils clear the inner barrel. That's a source of a short.
 
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