Dimitri or Cherry bomber?

[Ben85]

Hello all,

I have decided that the next mod I want to try is a mech box mod and after a bit of research, have stumbled across both the Dimitri clone and the Cherry bomber clone by IVOGO.

It seems that there is quite a split decision between which one to go for and I just wondered if anyone out there has both and can give me their input?

I would appreciate anyone's feedback.

Many thanks

Ben

 

[DaveSignal]

I have both and they are both great. They are very similar. I think MCV used the Dimitri design to come up with the Cherry Bomber... they just did the switch slightly differently.

My CB is not Ivogo though. I've got a full copper Cherry Bomber clone, which is really heavy, way heavier than the Dimitri. It has the conductive advantage of being copper plus looks incredible (who else makes a full copper dual 18650 box?). But the Ivogo CB clones are probably roughly the same weight as the Ivogo Dimitri.

They are both fully mechanical boxes that hit hard. Pick whichever design you prefer. Or just get both of them.

 

[hambone0424]

I had the same problem went with cb my boy got dimitri dam near the same as long as its really an ivogo

 

[Kprthevapr]

I prefer the side button on the CB over the top button on the Dimitri because I have small hands

 

[Froth]

As much as I initially liked the Cherry Bomber, Mine has been plagued with firing issues since about day three(Ivogo clone from Angelcigs). Initially it was great, never misfired and performed admirably even with some very low resistance builds until about the third day of heavy use when a dark grey almost black spot started to form on the inside of the aluminum where the brass button met the aluminum case. Since that spot has initially formed NOTHING I have done has been able to remedy it in any sort of permanent fashion, without fail once a day I have to remove the entire 510 to get at the button to remove the dark spot or it refuses to fire unless I push the button VERY hard.

This has happened with the MCV Panzer magnets in the switch AND with a spring in the switch, I've been desperate for a remedy but I fear that the metallurgic differences of the button and mod may be working against me here, over time with use raw untreated aluminum becomes exposed after firing it for half a day, even when I'm using a high quality lubricant(Nyogel 760G) this happens, then as it sits overnight I believe the humidity in the air is causing the freshly exposed raw aluminum to corrode and form a very non-conductive spot in the same exact place every time.

I'm not a huge fan of untreated aluminum being the main contact point in a mod, at least for me and my usage in the weather I live in...it's not been the best experience. My Ivogo Osmium box has been getting used tons because of the CB not working properly, the osmium uses a brass to brass contact at the switch movement points and has yet to develop any firing issues at all with the same builds I was using on the CB.

 

[Ben85]

Thanks for the comments so far. It's a shame to hear you have had issues Froth. Is this a common fault?

I am still on the fence. The Dimitri is a good looking mod and seems dead reliable, but I have a feeling that the button position will drive me crazy. On the other hand, the CB has a great switch position, but I'm not a huge fan of the engraving. I don't however hate the engraving and like the exposed aluminium look.

Seems my ideal would be a dimitri with a side firing button. Damn.

Any more thoughts would be great.

 

[Martnargh]

I got cb clone from ivogo and its never misfired on me, the button has never gotten hot and the spring is still intact.
I fire .08-.1 ohm on it, it evenly distributes discharge through cells as theyre at an even level when i put em on the charger. Also machining is perfect, no rough edges or blemishes inside the battery bay.
Best of all you can get the mcv magnets set and silver contacts packages from bevapehappy since its a 1:1 clone they fit.
Also fasttech sells copper clone for 60 bucks.
I got alluminum one for 25, hits like a freight train.
I recommend getting new cells to marry to the device since i did try using some older batts on it and the fire button did get hot so i reverted back to the 4 new vtc4s i got from lightning vapes and it hits like normal.
Cb is my adv as well as the hexohm v2 everything else got benched its that good.
Dont know about dimitri i cant say since i dont own one.

 

[DaveSignal]

The Dimitri button is easy to use. As long as you don't have really small hands, your thumb will be right where the button is. It actually requires slightly more thumb movement to hit the side button on the CB.

 

[Bad Ninja]

As much as I initially liked the Cherry Bomber, Mine has been plagued with firing issues since about day three(Ivogo clone from Angelcigs). Initially it was great, never misfired and performed admirably even with some very low resistance builds until about the third day of heavy use when a dark grey almost black spot started to form on the inside of the aluminum where the brass button met the aluminum case. Since that spot has initially formed NOTHING I have done has been able to remedy it in any sort of permanent fashion, without fail once a day I have to remove the entire 510 to get at the button to remove the dark spot or it refuses to fire unless I push the button VERY hard.

This has happened with the MCV Panzer magnets in the switch AND with a spring in the switch, I've been desperate for a remedy but I fear that the metallurgic differences of the button and mod may be working against me here, over time with use raw untreated aluminum becomes exposed after firing it for half a day, even when I'm using a high quality lubricant(Nyogel 760G) this happens, then as it sits overnight I believe the humidity in the air is causing the freshly exposed raw aluminum to corrode and form a very non-conductive spot in the same exact place every time.

I'm not a huge fan of untreated aluminum being the main contact point in a mod, at least for me and my usage in the weather I live in...it's not been the best experience. My Ivogo Osmium box has been getting used tons because of the CB not working properly, the osmium uses a brass to brass contact at the switch movement points and has yet to develop any firing issues at all with the same builds I was using on the CB.

Froth, the black spot is oxidation.
When aluminum contacts other metals like brass and copper, it oxidizes very quickly.
If the contact point is an electrical connection, the oxidation causes microscopic arcs that cause the black spots, which cause more resistance issues, more sparks, and so on.

NoAlOx is specifically made for this, and if you clean your mod and apply a thin coat it will prevent this from happening.
NoAlOx can be found in any hardware store, lowes, or Home Depot for a couple dollars.

This is common in aluminum to brass electrical connections.

 

[Froth]

Yeah, I'm well aware of Noalox...I tried it first, lasted about three hours maximum through four different applications of it, with intensive cleaning prior each time. Nyogel 760G worked the longest, but still every day the button has to come apart if I want to use it for any length of time. This complaint is not being made without repeated attempts to remedy it, I'm a very very handy person with a mechanic/welding/machining background and this one just doesn't go away no matter what anti-oxidant is applied. Sometimes a bad materials choice can ruin a very good design, oh well...it's just a $30 clone after all, which could be to blame since I have no clue what alloy of Al it really is.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

If you have a background in metal fab, why not build your own mod? You can buy all the parts for a simple mech online for about $25. Al you really need is a drill to poke 3/8" or 1/2" holes for the switch and 510 connector and a few holes for emergency venting. Plus you can customize it with any type of switch and 510 positioning you want. I've been looking at doing it myself. The most expensive parts combo I found was about $40, and that was for a dual 26650 with a mag switch and spring loaded 510.

 

[Froth]

If you have a background in metal fab, why not build your own mod? You can buy all the parts for a simple mech online for about $25. Al you really need is a drill to poke 3/8" or 1/2" holes for the switch and 510 connector and a few holes for emergency venting. Plus you can customize it with any type of switch and 510 positioning you want. I've been looking at doing it myself. The most expensive parts combo I found was about $40, and that was for a dual 26650 with a mag switch and spring loaded 510.

Oh, I have already ventured into making my own mods, I have two that I fabricated from the ground up that I still use(One 18650 Tube mode, One Dual 18650 Bottom feeder). Just so happens that I like to collect dozens of mods that I rarely use, kind of as a way to give me ideas for things I may modify or make myself or give me hints at ways to improve other mods. The Cherry Bomber is just a lost cause as of right now for me, though I may press-fit a brass or copper bushing into the aluminum body so that there isn't any more brass to aluminum switch contact. Since I dropped the Cherry Bomber I picked up an Ivogo Osmium, I rounded the entire outside and took off the recessed area the logo medallion was in because I was bored one night and now I'm using it every single day without issue, despite numerous bad reviews on FT. Half the fun for me of buying crappy clone stuff is that I get to fix it and make it better, the Cherry Bomber has just been a royal pain in the ... since about day 3 and doesn't like staying "fixed".

 

[Ben85]

Thanks for the thoughts so far. Seems a bit of a mixed bag so far.

I am still no further forward, but I do have another question. Does IVOGO do any "premium" clones? I am thinking no, but I have seen a black Dimitri here in the UK for £30 and then a midnight version on another site for £45. Both are IVOGO versions. Is that just a ridiculously high price for the same thing, or am I missing something here?

I have read so much into both and I am not sure I am ever going to find the answer until I take the plunge and buy one. One of them will be powering my Igo W6 real soon I am sure.

For those that have handled both, does the Dimitri feel much bigger than the CB?

 

[DaveSignal]

Ivogo clones are often very good. Ivogo does try to stick to lower cost clones though. You won't find them trying to sell a solid copper box. But they do an excellent job with what they do. And the Ivogo mods that I own work well. The FastTech clones are all different manufacturers.... they do have Ivogo clones too though at great prices. Read the discussions and reviews for any particular SKU to make sure you are getting the right one.

Both the Dimitri and the CB are the same size.

ETA: If both UK vendors are selling the same clone by the same manufacturer, then you should get the cheaper one. There are good deals on eBay sometimes too. If anyone is selling it cheaper then FT, then there is reason to be suspicious.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yeah, I'm well aware of Noalox...I tried it first, lasted about three hours maximum through four different applications of it, with intensive cleaning prior each time. Nyogel 760G worked the longest, but still every day the button has to come apart if I want to use it for any length of time. This complaint is not being made without repeated attempts to remedy it, I'm a very very handy person with a mechanic/welding/machining background and this one just doesn't go away no matter what anti-oxidant is applied. Sometimes a bad materials choice can ruin a very good design, oh well...it's just a $30 clone after all, which could be to blame since I have no clue what alloy of Al it really is.

Interesting.
I have three and have zero problems at all.
In this application, different grades of aluminum would make to softer/ harder, but wouldn't really affect it in the way you are experiencing.

I guess it's possible yours came from a block of aluminum with an impurity in it, but mine hit like Thor's hammer.

 

[hambone0424]

Interesting.
I have three and have zero problems at all.
In this application, different grades of aluminum would make to softer/ harder, but wouldn't really affect it in the way you are experiencing.

I guess it's possible yours came from a block of aluminum with an impurity in it, but mine hit like Thor's hammer.

Amen i upgraded the spring bc i havent ordered my mags yet and i swear this thing will rip your face chucks clouds with no problems and its awesome bc 2 40 amp batts you can build low and not get hot im at .1 and my switch does not get hot

 

[Froth]

I guess it's possible yours came from a block of aluminum with an impurity in it, but mine hit like Thor's hammer.

That's honestly what I'm leaning towards, either way it was a $30 clone that still looks cool sitting on the shelf next to my monitor(I like the engravings). Perhaps this is a sign that I should dish out the $50 for the copper clone and leave the aluminum on the wall.

 

[Ben85]

Ok, after reading A LOT, I have decided that the Cherry bomber is what I am going for. Going to get myself a Little Boy RDA to pair up with it too.
Expect some thoughts real soon.

Thanks all for the help!

 

[Bad Ninja]

Ok, after reading A LOT, I have decided that the Cherry bomber is what I am going for. Going to get myself a Little Boy RDA to pair up with it too.
Expect some thoughts real soon.

Thanks all for the help!

Nice combo!
They will look fantastic together!

 

[Ben85]

They does look pretty awesome!

Who makes your clone? Tobeco seems to be the only "branded" clone I can get over here.