DIY brush finishing - no tools required

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RiverNut

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Hi friends,
I've been asked to share my experience with diy brush finishing. The first mod I did was a GGTS and Ody some time ago, and I was surprised at how easy it was to get very satisfactory results with very little effort and no tools. Polished mods are of course very beautiful, but if you're like me, the finger prints and "slimy" feeling of polished SS after you've handled it all day will annoy you. So one day I came across a 3M abrasive pad I had lying around and decided to take a chance at brushing the polished finish. From then on I've been experimenting with different abrasive materials and have concluded that 3M polishing papers are the easiest to work with as well as the most forgiving. Specifically, for my tastes anyway, the 30 micron version here http://www.ottofrei.com/3M-Polishing-Paper-8000-Grit-1-Micron-Color-Light-Green.html. I also use the package kit to aid in bringing back scuffed up pieces that I want polished. It's a great product and works wonders without having to use power tools and buffing wheels. They are wet/dry papers and can be washed and reused. For brushed finish, the 30 micron gives a very nice, consistent satin brush look. And unlike a polished ss finish, refurbishing a brushed finish is VERY easy. So if you want to maintain an everyday use mod to keep it looking nice, this is an excellent way to do it. It stays nice all day without the annoying finger prints, and after a month or two of scuffs and scratches, it literally takes 5 minutes to get it back to looking like new (providing the scratches aren't deep).
If there were a "secret" to getting good results, I would say this paper is it. I have found that coarser materials are harder to get uniform results. Not that it can't be done, just that it's more difficult.
I started brushing my 18650 Esterigon tube this morning and it took me less than 15 minutes to be satisfied with the results. Fold a small piece of 3m paper in half as this makes it easier to work with. Place your tube on the paper so that less than half of it is over the edge and hold it with one hand, with your finger along the tube. Then with your other hand, simply turn the tube as though you were screwing it. I don't recommend putting too much lateral force as your turning it though. A little it okay, just go slow and don't make any sudden movements. The turning itself can be fast, that's okay. Just not other movements. Turn like this for a few minutes, then flip the tube over to so the other side, making sure you overlap what you've already done. The pressure applied with your fingers should not be too firm because you want to be able to turn it freely. And try to apply even pressure throughout the process. Continue to do this until you are satisfied with the results. I think you'll be amazed at how little time it takes.
It's also an excellent way to make a beat up device look nice again before you put it in the classies...and will bring more interest to your listing


Tips;
1. Make sure your tube and hands have been washed and are free of oil before you start
2. After brushing one end, use a new, clean area of paper and wipe the tube down to remove any small particles and oil from your fingers before you brush the other end.
3. Carefully remove your tube from the paper, as this is when you can get "unwanted" scratches.
4. Don't try to completely wrap the tube in paper as this can inhibit turning the tube smoothly
5. And lastly, don't be afraid to experiment with different grits (coarseness). If you want an even silkier look, try the 15 micron. If you want a more pronounced brush, I recommend the 3m pads as they are also easier to work with than sandpaper. Sandpaper tends to grab the mod and makes it harder to turn smoothly so I don't recommend it.
That's pretty much it. Don't be afraid. If you mess up a little, it can easily be corrected.
And to answer Rina's question, yes, you can do your whole Esterigon if want to. Just remove the button first of course.

Hopefully I haven’t left anything out (it’s sooo simple), but if anyone has any further questions I’ll answer to the best of my experience.
I would also invite anyone else with experience to add any tips that I may have left out.

package kit




this paper is a little too long but it worked fine for me


polish/brush mix :)


 

RiverNut

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Thanks for the post, good find. It can take some real stones to experiment roughing up a $250 mod.

Found 'em on Amazon if anyone doesn't want to make the 3 pack order minimum from the link above, http://www.amazon.com/3M-WET-DRY-TR...1405277049&sr=8-2&keywords=3M+Polishing+Paper

thanks montara. I don't see that it's a minimum order though. just that you get it a little cheaper if you buy 3 or more :)

don't forget too that you can buy the individual sheets in the micron that you prefer if that's what you'd rather do

edit: also the website refers to its "grit" whereas 30 micron is "400 grit"
 
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Aal_

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River I didn't get the part where you actually brush the tube. In your picture it seems the paper is covering half of esterigon although you said half should be over the edge? Didn't get that part. And i still didn't understand how you turn it. Do you turn the paper in your hand or esterigon with your finger. And do you do a complete turn or you rock it back and forth. Thanks man.
 

RiverNut

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River I didn't get the part where you actually brush the tube. In your picture it seems the paper is covering half of esterigon although you said half should be over the edge? Didn't get that part. And i still didn't understand how you turn it. Do you turn the paper in your hand or esterigon with your finger. And do you do a complete turn or you rock it back and forth. Thanks man.

less than half over the edge, more than half on the paper. And the reason for this is so that each time you flip it to do the other end, you are overlapping what you've previously done. You hold the mod in the paper securely and without movement in your left hand (if you're right handed), while you turn it with your right hand/fingers holding the mod, like you're screwing a cap on a bottle (but without much lateral movement if any). Always turn, do not rock it back and forth.. Hope that helps :)
 
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Ariel_MX

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I used to use a 3M Scotch Brite green pad (the one that we use to wash dishes) to give a satin finish to a stainless steel watch, but I think it could be too abrasive. Maybe not applying much pressure against the tube could do the job.

Has anyone tried it?

(I am thinking in alternative materials)
 

RiverNut

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the green pad is pretty abrasive, but there are other, better choices available...also made by 3M. Google 3M abrasive pads, as they have several different grits. Pads are super easy to handle and make it easier to apply even pressure, however, their surface texture is not very uniform, especially the coarser grits.
 

montara

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I used to use a 3M Scotch Brite green pad (the one that we use to wash dishes) to give a satin finish to a stainless steel watch, but I think it could be too abrasive. Maybe not applying much pressure against the tube could do the job.

Has anyone tried it?

(I am thinking in alternative materials)

Done many a tube with 3M green pads, but as OP discovered "coarser materials are harder to get uniform results."
A set of these purpose sheets should get us a more professional result. Also this gives us a reversal, step-by-step system to restore polish. Start rough and work your way back to shiny (if that's your thing).
 

Aal_

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less than half over the edge, more than half on the paper. And the reason for this is so that each time you flip it to do the other end, you are overlapping what you've previously done. You hold the mod in the paper securely and without movement in your left hand (if you're right handed), while you turn it with your right hand/fingers holding the mod, like you're screwing a cap on a bottle (but without much lateral movement if any). Always turn, do not rock it back and forth.. Hope that helps :)
Thanks it's clear now. I remember the same method was used by captain Steve (i think?) but with a drill. It's great to see it work manually. I wonder if by hand we can polish as well to a mirror finish using a series of grades from coarse to fine.
 

Ariel_MX

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the green pad is pretty abrasive, but there are other, better choices available...also made by 3M. Google 3M abrasive pads, as they have several different grits. Pads are super easy to handle and make it easier to apply even pressure, however, their surface texture is not very uniform, especially the coarser grits.

I thought so, as my mom uses those green pads to wash pans after a cooking session of mexican food. :laugh:

Maybe those green pads worked fine on the watch, due the stainless steel grade on it, who knows.

I will get the package kit you posted :)

Glad I asked before having experimented with them on my Esterigon :blink:
 

RiverNut

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Thanks it's clear now. I remember the same method was used by captain Steve (i think?) but with a drill. It's great to see it work manually. I wonder if by hand we can polish as well to a mirror finish using a series of grades from coarse to fine.

the final mirror finish will be done with a microfiber cloth and polish, but yes, that's what the gradation in this kit will do if that's what you want. Although, be prepared to spend more time than you would using buffing wheels. A little elbow grease never hurt anyone though.
 

Aal_

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Thank you so much, RiverNut! :)
Even if I arrived late to the party (when I was who asked about this), I'm so happy to see many others who are interested in your method!
I will look for that and I think I'll try it first with the 18500 tube since I use the 18350 tube more often anyway. Thanks again!
Don't try with the 18500 because if you screw it you can't by a replacement!!
 

Aal_

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you're not taking a jackhammer to it buddy. It's a mild abrasive that can be undone if wanted.

My hope is that others will post pics of their results here to confirm how simple and effective it is. Seriously, you can't screw this up.
Haha I meant if you don't like it or you want to undo. I mean there is an inherit risk of the lines being not straight or making some swirls by mistake etc...
 
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