Well my experiment failed this rDNA40 is too smart. It is right back to . 11 and holding steady there so thats what the coil is.
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
- Thread starter Tbev
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If you liked how it was vaping when you tricked it into thinking the .11 was .13, just up your temp 10° at a time until you find the vape you enjoy.
I'll go as high as 480° on some builds. I try not too though, IMO having to up the temp too far above 450 is a sign of a poor build. 430-450 seems to be my happy place. Fantastic vape across all kinds of atomizers(dripper/clearo/tank) at that temp, and keeping it >450° I've never re wicked and found the cotton or rayon to be burnt.
I'll go as high as 480° on some builds. I try not too though, IMO having to up the temp too far above 450 is a sign of a poor build. 430-450 seems to be my happy place. Fantastic vape across all kinds of atomizers(dripper/clearo/tank) at that temp, and keeping it >450° I've never re wicked and found the cotton or rayon to be burnt.
Hey all. I'm onto about a week now with my VaporShark rDNA40, and I have been experiencing a very frustrating problem. It seems as though whenever I go a certain amount of time (let's call it 5 minutes) without taking a rip, obviously my device is in sleep mode by then, when I go to wake it up and take a puff, it decides that it wants to drop my ohms down by around .05, and my vape will be noticeably different, it will be much weaker in terms of temperature and vapor production, yet also a little harsher on the throat (burning sensation). However, I have never experienced this problem when vaping constantly, and not letting my device go idle for more than a few minutes. When the problem does occur, the only way that I have found to fix it is to pull the battery. Once I pop the battery back in, everything goes back to normal.
Most people I have talked to on this forum automatically say "loose connection". I'm not a wizard when it comes to electrical equipment, but my instincts tell me that my symptoms do not point to a loose connection. As I mentioned, my vape quality remains consistent if I vape at a steady pace - but if I had a loose connection, one would think that it wouldn't matter how frequently I vape, I would still get messed up results. Not to mention, I've never heard of pulling the battery to be the remedy for a loose connection.
This problem occurs regardless of the resistance of my coils. I use spaced single coils, but I also tried twisting together 2 strands of 32g NI200, per the suggestion of another member, in order to establish a better connection in my RDA posts.
Any advice would be really helpful before I decide to send my new device back for inspection/repair.
Most people I have talked to on this forum automatically say "loose connection". I'm not a wizard when it comes to electrical equipment, but my instincts tell me that my symptoms do not point to a loose connection. As I mentioned, my vape quality remains consistent if I vape at a steady pace - but if I had a loose connection, one would think that it wouldn't matter how frequently I vape, I would still get messed up results. Not to mention, I've never heard of pulling the battery to be the remedy for a loose connection.
This problem occurs regardless of the resistance of my coils. I use spaced single coils, but I also tried twisting together 2 strands of 32g NI200, per the suggestion of another member, in order to establish a better connection in my RDA posts.
Any advice would be really helpful before I decide to send my new device back for inspection/repair.
What's the build at before it's dropping down to .05? How many wraps and what gauge ni200? Have you checked the resistance the device is telling you it's at with what a coil calculator(steam engine is a good one) says you should be at for your wire size, coil diameter, and number of wraps? If you've vaped it a few times but don't like the vape quality and then pull the battery to reset it, when you out it back in and the chip measures the resistance it's measuring a warm coil which will give you a higher ohm reading because ni200 increases in resistance as it hears up(this is how the chip calculates temperature).
Pulling the battery in a DNA40 with a nickel coil does something unlike any other device you have used. When you do this you are resetting the board, meaning it has NO prior memory of the coil that was on it before. It will never ask you if it is the same coil because it is starting from scratch. When it starts from scratch it is VERY important the coil is not any warmer than room temperature.
Your coil is likely built at too low of a resistance and as it sits and the board refines, it is dropping to where it should actually be. So you wake up the board after sitting and take a pull and notice the vape is weak. You look and see the board has refined the coil to .05, so you pop the battery out and pop it back in, forcing the board to reassess the coil (which now is warm to hot) so it is going to read the coil at a significantly higher ohm that it should be at, but in your view it just fixed it. The board cannot reassess the coil as you are using it, not very well at least, because the coil is hot, but once it cools, the process will repeat itself.
Your coil is likely built at too low of a resistance and as it sits and the board refines, it is dropping to where it should actually be. So you wake up the board after sitting and take a pull and notice the vape is weak. You look and see the board has refined the coil to .05, so you pop the battery out and pop it back in, forcing the board to reassess the coil (which now is warm to hot) so it is going to read the coil at a significantly higher ohm that it should be at, but in your view it just fixed it. The board cannot reassess the coil as you are using it, not very well at least, because the coil is hot, but once it cools, the process will repeat itself.
Last edited:
I was told by another member that my .35ish coil may be too high, which is why I built it down to .13
Based on what you've said, what would be my course of action to remedy this? I have tried letting my coil sit, allowing the board to assess it, and then adjusting my wattage and temp up to try and achieve the results that I get after pulling the battery. It has not work, the quality of the vape is still very low.
Given all of this, I suppose you could be right about my resistance being too low. I seem to hit TP almost instantaneously, no matter how high I set my wattage and temp, which obviously leads to the weak vape.
Is this correct? Can you offer any more steps?
If you haven't yet, read through the post I have linked in my signature.
My suggestion would be to start out with the coil I recommend there and get to know the DNA40 board. Using that coil you know where it should be and what, if any, adjustments need to be made. You want to focus on getting the coil right above all else. Trying to adjust to an incorrect coil will simply lead to frustration.
At this point in time (I'm at work, so cannot fiddle), my build is as follows:
- NI200, single coil, two strands of twisted 32g
- 7 wraps, diameter of an ink pen insert See here
- reading .13ohms after being woken up from idle
Picture below.
I've tried other builds with single strand, more wraps, that came out to around .3ohms. I've even tried wrapping the wire underneath the screw heads for solid connection. Also, I build my coils on another device - I've read your guide before. No matter the build, I'm still getting that weak vape. This is so very frustrating, I've never had this much trouble before. This DNA40 is humbling haha.
Your .13Ω seems about right, but if it is not staying there then you have a connection issue.
If it is staying there and it is hitting TP quickly, resulting in a weak vape, then you have a hot spot. The board reads the entire coil (from connection to connection) to calculate the resistance, it there is a point in the coil, including the legs, creating at point of resistance then that specific point is going to reach your desired temp much faster than the entire coil. TP is going to kick in shutting down the majority of the coil before it ever gets near where it should be.
That is why I suggest the simplest coil until you get a good handle on what causes certain issues. Once you understand what the board is doing and why, you can move to other builds.
Edit: You are correct about the humbling. It is almost unrealistic in the fact that there is damn near zero margin for error.
If it is staying there and it is hitting TP quickly, resulting in a weak vape, then you have a hot spot. The board reads the entire coil (from connection to connection) to calculate the resistance, it there is a point in the coil, including the legs, creating at point of resistance then that specific point is going to reach your desired temp much faster than the entire coil. TP is going to kick in shutting down the majority of the coil before it ever gets near where it should be.
That is why I suggest the simplest coil until you get a good handle on what causes certain issues. Once you understand what the board is doing and why, you can move to other builds.
Edit: You are correct about the humbling. It is almost unrealistic in the fact that there is damn near zero margin for error.
Last edited:
I'll second your comment on humbling.
I would also like to add something I experienced just yesterday. I had a coil in my Lemo that with my normal draw produce excellent vapor and idled around 410 F. Then out of the blue it started producing weak vapor and started hitting my 450 F TP fairly quickly. Finally I got tired of dealing with it and opened the Lemo up. I had been vaping a lot of very sweet juice and needless to say it was pretty well gunked up.
I pulled out the old wick rinsed under tap water and it came out pure white. I only mention this so no one thinks the wick was burnt. Actually I could have reused it but I use rayon and have miles and mile of it.
I heated the coil with TP still set at 450 F then plunged into cold tap water and repeated a couple of times. Then used a little brush one that came with an electric razor and lightly brushed the coil and it came very clean. I then re-wicked and all is good again.
I can't say exactly what the cause of the runaway temp was it could have been the dirty wick not wicking and/or the coil gunk insulating the coil from the vapor temperature of the juice.
So I spent half a day playing with settings only to discover that a 10 minute re-wick and cleaning solved the problem. This same thing probably goes on with Kanthal but it goes unseen because you don't have all the instrumentation telling you what is going on inside the Atty and you just live with it until it starts to taste so bad you can't take it anymore.
Last edited:
^It was the gunk imo. When I'm on my 2nd tank I see my resistance rising by 0.02-0.05 Ohms (never ran more than two tanks yet on the same coil wick, so wouldn't know where it'd've been on the 3rd). As I clean my build, rewick, the Ohms return to normal (as where it was when installed).
Last edited:
Gunk definitely impedes the evaporation process.
I suspect the gunk carbon insulates the coil.
I have had coils deformed by gunk, the deformity lead to a wrap touching and forming a hot spot.
I think my threshold level for gunk taste is low, dunno maybe it is merely average. I donèt ever notice that nasty gunk hit with DNA 40 and Ni200. Time to vapor increases and the vapor level is down but the taste is still good. I have run 80 mls over a coil before dry burn and re wicking but it was a reasonable clean RY4
I suspect the gunk carbon insulates the coil.
I have had coils deformed by gunk, the deformity lead to a wrap touching and forming a hot spot.
I think my threshold level for gunk taste is low, dunno maybe it is merely average. I donèt ever notice that nasty gunk hit with DNA 40 and Ni200. Time to vapor increases and the vapor level is down but the taste is still good. I have run 80 mls over a coil before dry burn and re wicking but it was a reasonable clean RY4
I just filled my K4 tank for the 9th time on this wick. (Boba's Bounty diluted 3:1 with straight VG, 2 strands of twisted 30awg Ni200 at 3mm, spaced, vaped at 30watts/440degrees, and of course, wicked with Rayon)
I've been running it until the juice is completely out of sight before I refill, so I'd say I'm over 30ml, which isn't too bad for Boba's.
edit: I've run my coil so long that I couldn't tell it was a spaced coil, it was that gunked up. But TP still worked perfectly.
I've been running it until the juice is completely out of sight before I refill, so I'd say I'm over 30ml, which isn't too bad for Boba's.
edit: I've run my coil so long that I couldn't tell it was a spaced coil, it was that gunked up. But TP still worked perfectly.
Last edited:
BNEAT,
I have also and I think that is why the last re-build cure caught me off guard. I have heard it before but it is starting to hit home "All juices are not created equal".
By the way I have always heard that Boba's was really bad at gunking. Personally I found it not near as bad I I had heard but I didn't care all that much for it so I have only run 30 ml of the stuff not exactly a lot of data from that small a sample.
qorax,
Probably a very good habit to have. My problem is I am too darn lazy to keep my Atties clean like I should.
qorax,
Probably a very good habit to have. My problem is I am too darn lazy to keep my Atties clean like I should.
Btw, I meant 'wick' instead of coil. I've amended that post. I'm yet to replace my Ni200 coil, it's many tanks thru already and is as good as new.
It's not the worst, but it kinda sucks for an ADV. I hate hearing the people in "100ml club" talking in the Rayon thread, no way I can make it that long on this stuff!
Well I'm still vaping the same coil that qorax told me about used KGD I'm on tank #6 still right on .11 vaping great. I hope this is not a fluke because I love it. I wrapped 2 more coils last night 14wraps one 28awg one 29awg tempered. Put them in separate bowls so I would know which one was which now I can't remember which bowl I used for which old age is wonderful.
- Status
