DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

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HolmanGT

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14 wraps 2.5mm 28awg. Just made a new coil 3mm 28awg about 10 wraps slightly spaced showing .2 ohms working good right now. running 15w really vaping good but I have to go to bed see how it is in the morning.

The new one seems a little high. Did you check it against the "Steam Engine" calculator?

Or are you having the same problem as me... I am old and keep my house warm while I am up and cool when I go to bed. It wouldn't surprise me if it read about 0.15 to 0.17 by morning if you let your house cool off at night.

:2c:
 

qorax

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Hey qorax I told Busardo about how this coil was working and he said But But But thats not supposed to work aren't you getting fluctuations or differences in heat, I told him no it is rock steady day 3 now.

Well it is working fine for us, isn't it? I've rewicked it a couple of times (after cleaning off the coil) and NO ISSUES yet. I'll throw a pic of my wick-n-coil after two tanks thru in a while.

Btw, took my rDNA40 with Erlkonigin Ni200 outdoors today while shovelling snow, for testing. It was -22 C. Kept it in the pocket w/out use. An hour hence the resistance rose to 0.18 Ohms (build was 0.13 Ohms) and the vape was ridiculous :) at the set wattage (22W) and temp (420 F).

Cranked up the wattage and temp (28W, 450 F) and the system vaped fine. 10 minutes into it ~ everything returned to normal. The resistance was back to 0.13 Ohms. But I was surprised ~ isn't the resistance supposed to 'drop' rather than rise under freezing weather?
 

RandyF

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Ambient temperature has no effect on the reading if both your device and atty are subjected to the same environment, assuming it is not extreme. It is when one is off due to external factors that you will see it affect the reading. I haven't tested it, but I would imagine if your atty was sitting in your air conditioned house and your device was baking in a hot car and you connected the two, the reading would be off the same as if you put a hot coil on a cool device.

I tried a contact Ni coil last night, but just firing it dry at 460F I could see it was not even, the outside wraps were firing first. I used my Kuro Koiler, so the coil was very nice, but without being able to dry fire, I really can't see how contact coils can work. Even the best kanthal contact coils need a few dry fires to even them out. Built my usual 28g 8wrap spaced at .11 and it is working well, haven't had the popping that was annoying me with my first attempts on the STm.
 

vakaion

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Well it is working fine for us, isn't it? I've rewicked it a couple of times (after cleaning off the coil) and NO ISSUES yet. I'll throw a pic of my wick-n-coil after two tanks thru in a while.

Btw, took my rDNA40 with Erlkonigin Ni200 outdoors today while shovelling snow, for testing. It was -22 C. Kept it in the pocket w/out use. An hour hence the resistance rose to 0.18 Ohms (build was 0.13 Ohms) and the vape was ridiculous :) at the set wattage (22W) and temp (420 F).

Cranked up the wattage and temp (28W, 450 F) and the system vaped fine. 10 minutes into it ~ everything returned to normal. The resistance was back to 0.13 Ohms. But I was surprised ~ isn't the resistance supposed to 'drop' rather than rise under freezing weather?

Resistance in the nickel wire would drop.
Just guessing (I have zero expert knowledge lol) but as metal typically contracts when cold, perhaps this affected/loosened the connections until you warmed them up with usage?
 

Insomaniac10

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So I want to give a big public thanks to Coldpunk, who spent hours chatting with me last night, and helping me brainstorm solutions to my problem (page 199, post #1983). We talked on Facebook, for a few hours, and he was guiding me through different setups, and displaying incredible patience as I ruined coil after coil after coil. There was no need for him to invest so much effort into helping me with my problem, but he did anyway. I appreciate it greatly, because I was feeling really lost and frustrated with my new $200+ build.

After ripping through almost half a spool of NI200, I/we made a few discoveries:

- 32g wire is certainly not the way to go. It is way too thin and soft, and is especially difficult when dealing with post holes. Unfortunately, it's currently all I have to work with.

- I appears as though I may in fact have been plagued by a loose connections at some point, if not the entire time, while experiencing my issues. After paying closer attention, and building at a more meticulous pace, I was finding that my margin for error with my postitive post was considerably thinner than that of my negative post. I could tighten down the negative all the way without it cutting my wire, and it would be perfectly secure. With the center post, I found that it would not secure easier at all, which obviously led to me tightening further, and then it would cut my wire. I wasn't until we made a double leg with 2-strand twist that I was able to finally get my coil secure to the center post without breaking. I am no longer seeing my resistance drop after waking my device from sleep. So that particular issue seems to have been resolved.

- Now comes the issue of vape quality. I think I may have been expecting a little too much from TP. I seemed to enjoy the vape much better when I was tricking the chip into thinking my coil numbers were different than they actually are. I don't know how I am going to achieve those results when running with a pure reading, because I have tried adjusting my settings up, but TP just constantly takes over. For example: right now I am running a .16ohm, 32gtwisted 2-strand, single coil, at 19watts, 440dgs. I would put the quality of this vape somewhere in the middle of the road. Vapor production is just ok, flavor is average, throat hit is below average, and I'm not getting the cracking and popping I was getting after pulling my battery. All in all, I just can't get it back to that point, regardless of how I adjust my settings. Unless I'm still doing something wrong, this is fairly discouraging.

- I experienced something completely new on the way to work today. I had my VaporShark charging on my car cigarette lighter (oh, the irony), and I noticed the it was getting very warm. It was not near the heat, nor was I holding it, and it didn't cool off after i let it set for a while. However, I took the battery cover off, and the battery did not really feel overly-warm. I guess I'll have to keep a closer eye on this - I'll see how it behaves when I charge it on something else. Just figured i'd share that for the hell of it.

-
 
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vakaion

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- Now comes the issue of vape quality. I think I may have been expecting a little too much from TP. I seemed to enjoy the vape much better when I was tricking the chip into thinking my coil numbers were different than they actually are. I don't know how I am going to achieve those results when running with a pure reading, because I have tried adjusting my settings up, but TP just constantly takes over. For example: right now I am running a .16ohm, 32gtwisted 2-strand, single coil, at 19watts, 440dgs. I would put the quality of this vape somewhere in the middle of the road. Vapor production is just ok, flavor is average, throat hit is below average, and I'm not getting the cracking and popping I was getting after pulling my battery. All in all, I just can't get it back to that point, regardless of how I adjust my settings. Unless I'm still doing something wrong, this is fairly discouraging.

Possibly too much or too little wick density?
TP mode gets cranky quite easily when a nickel coil isn't getting enough juice flow, I get stung occasionally myself. >_<
 

2legsshrt

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The new one seems a little high. Did you check it against the "Steam Engine" calculator?

Or are you having the same problem as me... I am old and keep my house warm while I am up and cool when I go to bed. It wouldn't surprise me if it read about 0.15 to 0.17 by morning if you let your house cool off at night.

:2c:

You were right .17 this morning.
 

Insomaniac10

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Possibly too much or too little wick density?
TP mode gets cranky quite easily when a nickel coil isn't getting enough juice flow, I get stung occasionally myself. >_<

This is the best I can do without my stupid Blackberry going out of focus IMG_20150227_111005.jpg
 

Steamer861

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So Far it is not hitting TP. unless I let the wick get dry it's a bottom feeder
Since last night this contact coil is working Perfectly 100%, the resistance now reads .13 from .15
I will keep running it and see what happens :)

How often are you hitting TP with this build/settings?
 

2legsshrt

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I am really getting tired of trying to find a build that will hold up like kanthal and give the performance of it too. I have watched so many videos and everyone has a different method. None of them seem to hold up. The one I had was great but 3 days is just not long enough performance for me to justify getting another TC mod.
 

2legsshrt

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I really love this SXmini. Been vaping it for about a week with an 8 wrap 26awg 3mm kanthal build. .84ohms 14w or so and the flavor is outstanding. I was looking forward to the new model with the TC but now I don't know. I really like the idea of the whole TC thing but seems like there has to be a better way of achieving it then this nickel.
 

Steamer861

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9 wraps 29 gauge tempered NI200 around a 5/64 screwdriver. it's running all most 24 hours no problems
Vaping like a boss :) it settled in at .12 ohms & only hits TC if I let the wick get dry :)
I never glowed it red hot I did how ever pinch it with tweezers and torched it a bit to tighten the wraps not enough to loose the temper :)
BTW I built a similar coil for my KF V4 7 wraps 29 gauge tempered NI200 around 3mm screwdriver .19 ohms
So Far So Good :)

So what is that coil Steamer. I count 9wraps must be about 3mm is it 28awg
 
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Insomaniac10

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I really love this SXmini. Been vaping it for about a week with an 8 wrap 26awg 3mm kanthal build. .84ohms 14w or so and the flavor is outstanding. I was looking forward to the new model with the TC but now I don't know. I really like the idea of the whole TC thing but seems like there has to be a better way of achieving it then this nickel.

I'm currently feeling your pain. I either can't get it right, or I'm not satisfied with the results. The problem is that nickle is so finicky that I don't even know if I'm actually getting it right or not. i'm hoping for one of those "Eureka!" moments, but sadly it has not come yet.

The only way I can get a satisfying vape out of my builds is if I pull the battery and trick the board into thinking that my coil is hotter and at a lower resistance than it actually is. Then I get a champion vape! However, if I vape on a true reading, I cannot even come close to that quality of a vape, even if i turn my settings up. I just don't get it.
 
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Steamer861

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I read mamu's blog a few weeks back:) and using a drill to harden/straighten the NI200 does work But it isn't as hard as tempered
Before I started using the tempered NI200 the only thing working good for me was twisted strands 2 and 3 strands twisted of 30 gauge
any thing less wasn't giving me a good solid capture under the screws in the atty This is real important if the connection there is not really soild your build isn't going to work good this has bin my experience so far :)

Well I found this which was kind of an interesting read. You may or may not have read it before but here it is.
DNA 40 Tips - Rebel Vaper

I noticed you can work harden your nickel using RIPs wire straightening method. I have 29awg tempered think I will try your method. I'll have to use 2.5mm.
 
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