DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[qorax]

After the success of the first rebuilt one more atty today√

Contact coil, TP, Rayon ~ Lovin' it

 

[peraspera]

This is the best I can do without my stupid Blackberry going out of focusView attachment 415870

It's possible that you have coils shorting on the right side of your build. Make sure that the coils are separated. They don't need to be separated by a lot but builds with some coils separated and others touching each other won't work at all well.

 

[HolmanGT]

So what is that coil Steamer. I count 9wraps must be about 3mm is it 28awg

Check it out here: Steam Engine

 

[TheKiwi]

After the success of the first rebuilt one more atty today√

Contact coil, TP, Rayon ~ Lovin' it

Quick question! First 2 pictures those weren't contact coils. The last one is. How Didcha get there without pulsing it?


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[Insomaniac10]

I think my true problem may have finally revealed itself. It seems as though I may have a faulty board after all. Could this in fact be the culprit? (I detail my issue on page 199)

 

[vakaion]

If you have a faulty board you've got no hope of knowing if an issue is your fault or the boards. :-(

Sent from Tapatalk.

 

[Woofer]

I think my true problem may have finally revealed itself. It seems as though I may have a faulty board after all. Could this in fact be the culprit? (I detail my issue on page 199)
Most people I have talked to on this forum automatically say "loose connection".
View attachment 416043

The screen glitch does not affect the machine performance of the DNA 40, so no it is a problem but not the culprit.
People only say loose connection when the behaviour is that of a loose connection, which you have.
Pulling the battery will not help.

 

[RandyF]

I think my true problem may have finally revealed itself. It seems as though I may have a faulty board after all. Could this in fact be the culprit? (I detail my issue on page 199)View attachment 416043

The screen glitch is just that, a screen glitch. It does not affect anything but the display. I posted a video of mine earlier today showing a similar issue. It will clear itself after the screen goes out, or TP displays on the screen. While annoying, it will not affect any functionality.

 

[fastsnipedog]

There is less resistance with bigger wire, so use smaller sizes with nickel around 30 to 32 will work fine

 

[AMDTrucking]

Here is what I've got: It is called HuanYing
Which in reality is another Erlkönigin clone with better Airflow and Glass tank. I replaced the O-Rings with little bit fatter ones because it was leaking. It no longer sounds like Darth Vader.
Otherwise, it works with Tempered Ni200 28 Gauge and Rayon.

 

[Pocha]

Here is what I've got: It is called HuanYing
Which in reality is another Erlkönigin clone with better Airflow and Glass tank. I replaced the O-Rings with little bit fatter ones because it was leaking. It no longer sounds like Darth Vader.

How are you liking that Erl clone? I've been curious about it because of the side airflow. I think I'd want to use it with a nano chimney though.

 

[AMDTrucking]

How are you liking that Erl clone? I've been curious about it because of the side airflow. I think I'd want to use it with a nano chimney though.

Like I said: It works just like the Erlk with a little bit more airflow and a lot quieter.

 

[qorax]

Quick question! First 2 pictures those weren't contact coils. The last one is. How Didcha get there without pulsing it?

Burping out loud using Tapatalk

1. Just squeezed it before inserting the wick, w/out pulsing the build,
2. Rayon* as it is compresses the coils while in moves from one end to the other.

*We use nearly 50% more rayon over cotton as a wick. It's packed tight. And thus, I've found that there's no way 'spaced' coils could be achieved with rayon, unless we deliberately space them out using a needle after wicking the coil. Since my contact coils work flawlessly I chose not to attempt separating the wraps after insertion.

 

[jackmormon]

Need some help from the experts

I received a replacement VS this week (with even worse screen issues) and cannot for the life of me get anything close to a satisfying vape with a nickel build. I have tried multiple coils in a Lemo, a Tugboat, and a Magma. All 3 read stable resistances. I am sticking with spaced coils and have tried wrapping on an 8-32 screw and also doing the hand wrap on a 3mm bit and compressing. (Both 8-9 wrapts.) I make sure no coils are touching. Resting resistance on these are consistently .14-.16 and stable. Staying with Japanese cotton right now and have tried varying densities and the wicking seems fine. Nothing dry.

The consistent problem I have is it is hitting TP within a couple of seconds and throttling back the watts. For example I have it at 450 & 25 watts. It will hit 450 and start lowering the watts dramatically within two seconds of firing. I even upped it to 600 and it did the same thing.

The other weird thing is I tried the builds with TP turned off and a .16 resting resistance coil would jump up in to the .3 - .4 range, drop down to the .2 - .25 range, and jump around in the .5+ range before getting a burnt type of taste. Turn TP back on and it will go back to the resting reading of .16 and stay there. No jumping around.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

[jazzvaper]

Need some help from the experts

I received a replacement VS this week (with even worse screen issues) and cannot for the life of me get anything close to a satisfying vape with a nickel build. I have tried multiple coils in a Lemo, a Tugboat, and a Magma. All 3 read stable resistances. I am sticking with spaced coils and have tried wrapping on an 8-32 screw and also doing the hand wrap on a 3mm bit and compressing. (Both 8-9 wrapts.) I make sure no coils are touching. Resting resistance on these are consistently .14-.16 and stable. Staying with Japanese cotton right now and have tried varying densities and the wicking seems fine.

[Beware of "experts".]

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Suggest you start with a lower wattage then work you way up. Some builds/attys (RTA's in particular) won't handle higher wattage.

The magma definitely should but even with it depends on the build. So, again start low (12-15 watts) and work your way up...

 

[HolmanGT]

Need some help from the experts

I received a replacement VS this week (with even worse screen issues) and cannot for the life of me get anything close to a satisfying vape with a nickel build. I have tried multiple coils in a Lemo, a Tugboat, and a Magma. All 3 read stable resistances. I am sticking with spaced coils and have tried wrapping on an 8-32 screw and also doing the hand wrap on a 3mm bit and compressing. (Both 8-9 wrapts.) I make sure no coils are touching. Resting resistance on these are consistently .14-.16 and stable. Staying with Japanese cotton right now and have tried varying densities and the wicking seems fine. Nothing dry.

The consistent problem I have is it is hitting TP within a couple of seconds and throttling back the watts. For example I have it at 450 & 25 watts. It will hit 450 and start lowering the watts dramatically within two seconds of firing. I even upped it to 600 and it did the same thing.

The other weird thing is I tried the builds with TP turned off and a .16 resting resistance coil would jump up in to the .3 - .4 range, drop down to the .2 - .25 range, and jump around in the .5+ range before getting a burnt type of taste. Turn TP back on and it will go back to the resting reading of .16 and stay there. No jumping around.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Jack,

I can only speak to the Lemo Atty. Everything you mentioned sounds OK even the fact hat with TP off the resistance jumps around and eventually you get the burnt taste which you are heading for wit TP on only it stops the temp rise prior to the infamous Yuck Taste.

Now are you read for the "Big Reveal" on the Lemo.

Make sure you coil is in the 3 mm range. I know you tried that but go back to it and make sure the coil is no more than 1.5 to 2.0 mm above the air hole. Then (for me I pull the wick up and screw on the barrel of the chimney. Then cut the wick even with the top of the chimney and gently push it down to the bottom of the deck on both sides. Watch out you don't push the coil down while adjusting the wick down. No here is the secret, at least for me, making sure the wick is completely primed (on the coil and the tails) take the smallest jewelers screwdriver you have or drill bit any thing you can stick down the drum and push the wick back against the back wall of the coil deck. The whole idea here is to get that wick away from the juice channel. When you get thru manipulating the wick tails you should be able to see light looking down the barrel coming from the juice ports. That's it the big secret. If the juice can't flow copious amounts of juice to the wick you will always have the runaway hit TP problem.

If you get it right you will now because you won't hit TP or it will take one very long pull to get to lets say 420 F (I leave mine at 450 but seldom hit is unless I am in a B&M trying to impress the folks around me with some giant cloud) and the second reason you will know it is working right is you will start getting bubbles-ups on almost ever pull.

OK a very long

 

[Hemptation]

this has been an interesting read. lol. so I have 3 dan 40 devices. and I have 4 tanks built with ni200 26 gauge. my kayfun 4 has had the same build on it for 3 weeks. 3.25 mm 9-10 wraps it reads around .12-.16 depending on how many tanks of juice I run thru it before cleaning it. I have used really really really close spaced wraps and contact coils my erlPrnze is sitting around .10 and it is the finicky one. mainly because wicking it is always a trick. I have run about 30 mils thru it, and recently cleaned it and have it sitting. I have a manger sub tank mini built in around .09 it works great running around 15 watts. the airflow keeps the coil cool but the wicking chamber on it are real small. so chain vaping it at a high watt setting is not a great idea. I also twisted some 26 and placed on tugboat v2. it is reading around .08 and is great for a dripper. I think it is 14 wraps on a 3.4 mm diameter. been playing a lot with nickel for a month. running various tests. contact coils work, but the build has to be perfect. it has to be a large diameter hole, wicking has to be perfect. and you have to keep the coil clean. so every 25-30 mils, clean it off, rewick if need be, and refill. I typically vape all the juice out of my tank, and continue to fire at 400 degrees until I know the wick is dry. I have changed flavors several time in my KF4 with no issues. I got lucky on one of my kf4's , because the contact is amazing and has not continueren me any issues. on another tobeco version I have, it immediately started giving me issues, and so I switched it to a hybrid build for my P3. I will say, I have tried most of the nickel pre built VS coils, and they just are not worth the money. I think this technology is amazing. but it takes some time to learn your gear, and perfect the builds and wicking needed for each set up, and for each person's vaping style. I have only built with 26 gauge as well. just do not feel like the flimsy wire is going to hold up to my heavy vape style. hopefully I will have some titanium wire in the next few weeks and I can continue my testing with it. I have only heard good things about it thus far. hope everyone is doing good. and thank you for al the great info. I actually took the time to read this thread from the beginning when I started in with nickel a month ago.

sorry for the essay. only thought it right to share my views .....and it is only opinion and speculation lol
happy vaping, Hemp

 

[RandyF]

Need some help from the experts

I received a replacement VS this week (with even worse screen issues) and cannot for the life of me get anything close to a satisfying vape with a nickel build. I have tried multiple coils in a Lemo, a Tugboat, and a Magma. All 3 read stable resistances. I am sticking with spaced coils and have tried wrapping on an 8-32 screw and also doing the hand wrap on a 3mm bit and compressing. (Both 8-9 wrapts.) I make sure no coils are touching. Resting resistance on these are consistently .14-.16 and stable. Staying with Japanese cotton right now and have tried varying densities and the wicking seems fine. Nothing dry.

The consistent problem I have is it is hitting TP within a couple of seconds and throttling back the watts. For example I have it at 450 & 25 watts. It will hit 450 and start lowering the watts dramatically within two seconds of firing. I even upped it to 600 and it did the same thing.

The other weird thing is I tried the builds with TP turned off and a .16 resting resistance coil would jump up in to the .3 - .4 range, drop down to the .2 - .25 range, and jump around in the .5+ range before getting a burnt type of taste. Turn TP back on and it will go back to the resting reading of .16 and stay there. No jumping around.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Could be a few things. Like Holman said, it could be wicking, but since it seems from your post it acts the same on various attys, then that may not be it. Airflow could be another, but since you are using drippers that probably isn't it either. It sounds like you are approaching the coil right, and from the ohms you listed it sounds like 28g. To me it sounds like a hotspot, if any point in the wire heats up faster than the rest you will get what you are describing. It is a bit odd that you wouldn't have hit a nice coil yet, but believe me, it is possible. For Ni coils to work well you have to find that balance between......well, everything. It can be super frustrating at first, but once you get that right coil and see how it is suppose to work, you will start to understand it better. The trick is to get that first coil.

Maybe try dry firing the coil when you first attach it, with TP on. It won't light up like a kanthal coil, but it should be enough to see any hot spots. I would definitely not be shutting off TP with your Ni build in there. Read through the post linked in my signature and keep doing that basic coil until you get it working.

I build a 28g 8wrap on a 6-32 screw and the resistance is always .11/.12Ω. I don't do anything to it once it is wrapped, no pinching and no dry fires, and it USUALLY comes out perfect. I am able to fire it at 24 watts/460F without hitting TP on about a 5 to 6 second pull, I also tend to chain vape. Just to give you an idea what you should expect.

 

[HolmanGT]

Randy,

I have no explanation for why Jack has the same problem on all his attys. Actually I tried to stay away from that aspect of his post because I couldn't think of anything common.

But I did see a Youtube on making sure the Lemo juice port was clear gave it a try and the difference was day and night.

So as far as Jacks other devices not working I just don't have a clue. It sounds like he is doing everything right to me.

 

[qorax]

How I clean my Ni200 coils

1. Initial Dry Burning the coil (in TP only):

2. Alcohol Treatment:

3. Scrapping & Dry Burning the Alcohol dipped coil (in TP only):

4. The coil after Alcohol Cleaning:

5. Washing with soapy water:

6. The cleaned Ni200 Coil: