Fogger V4.3 with drilled wire posts, airflow and top filling.
Twisted two strands of NI200 32 Gauge reinforced by 26 Gauge NI200 leads. Wicked with Rayon (double pen)
Nice build!
Where are you finding the 26ga Ni200?
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DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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Nice build!
Where are you finding the 26ga Ni200?
There is a picture of the nautilus BVC Temperature Sensing Coil on Vapor Shark's Facebook page. There is no ETA as to when the coils will be available.Also, the coil is pictured with aqua ( Vapor Shark's corporate color) o-rings. The colored o-rings makes me wonder if Vapor Shark contracted with Aspire to make the heads specifically for them.
Doubt it, the original ask for aqua o-rings was by Atmistique, as that is their signature color. They are now showing up with other vendors, as there is obviously no exclusive on o-ring colors.
Awesome, thanks.
That makes perfect sense; & know that you point that out I do remember vaguely hearing about it...
ehh, DNA40 noob
Everyone is a DNA40 noob because the DNA40 is a noob itself.
I bought it her: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW4JZLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I even tried to make a coil from it, but it came out way too large for needed resistance. 17 wraps over 3 mm rod = 0.16Ω
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On my rebuilds I haven't had any connectivity issues.
Quick update for those interested - now using 10 wraps of 30 gauge on a slightly larger diameter screw. Nominal ID of coil is just a few thousandths over 3/32" (what I used to drill out the new wicking holes - the stock holes are plugged). Wicks better and hits temp limit a little later.
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I expect to be sternly corrected.
1.5 is my standard Kayfun/Russian 91 Kanthal build: 8 wraps on a 3/32 drill bit.On N200 I have wanted (slightly) more wick (Koh Gen Doh), so I use a 3 mm screwdriver with 11 wraps, giving me 0.16. I cannot tell any difference between builds of 0.16 and 0.20-ish.
Well in theory with the DNA40 it wont really matter with TP
But lets say I want to use a kayfun, knowing what I know and learned by using kayfuns 1.3 to 1.5 ohm and 18 to 20 watts max before horrid burnt taste on a standard regulated mod.
DNA40 I found .15 to .2 ohm 20 to 25 watts same kayfun 3.1 temp set at 450 vapes just fine.
Now take the Lemo way more airflow than the kayfun 3.1 on my IPV3 I run .7-.8 ohm 28ga even spaced parallel coils 30,40,50,60 watts no problem 50/60 watts being warmer than I like, but never a burnt taste, chucking clouds like a choo choo with awesome flavor.
Lemo on the DNA40 I run 0.1 to 0.17 ohm 450/470 degrees depending on the juice, 30/35 watts chucking clouds like a choo choo with awesome flavor.
I expect to be sternly corrected.
On N200 I have wanted (slightly) more wick (Koh Gen Doh), so I use a 3 mm screwdriver with 11 wraps, giving me 0.16. I cannot tell any difference between builds of 0.16 and 0.20-ish.
That about what I am going to try, when I get the 40...
What I like most about the DNA40 is instant vape.
No lag time for coil heat up because if the initial power in-rush that the DNA40 sends to the coils.
No lag time for coil heat up because if the initial power in-rush that the DNA40 sends to the coils.
I don't have my 40 box built yet but I have build a couple of nickle coils. They seemed to be stiff enough to wick up. Are they really that hard. Another question, what's better, a coil like I always build for my Kayfun - a micro/macro coil with no gaps or, the kind I used to build when rebuilding my Vivi Nova coils with the gaps between the coils? I'm hoping no gap cause they are a lot easier for me just from all the practise I've had since I got ny Kayfuns and started dripping as well.
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
LOL yup I've f%@*# up couple dozen fine coils during the wicking process Ni200 can be a tad finicky.2nd attempt with nickel:
looked alright until I tried to add rayon thru it
starting attempt #3
Perfect to doodoo in .5 seconds
I've very limited experience with ni200 so far. I would prefer using 28ga but resistance normally ends up too low, so I'm using 30ga. It's pretty soft. Some folks are hardening the wire before coiling and that probably helps. My other problem is that I am also new to rayon and I might just be using way too much.. But I can't taste anything wrong so I am trying to add a lot anyway.
I agree with you on contact coils being easier since it's what I was used to building on kayfuns, I still haven't tested spaced coils with ni200 so I can't comment. I always liked contact coils better when using kanthal.
Time to wick attempt #3, will try to post some pics in a bit
2nd attempt with nickel:
looked alright until I tried to add rayon thru it
starting attempt #3
If you haven't already, you should try "Double Insertion" method. With NI200 coil it really shines:
If you haven't already, you should try "Double Insertion" method. With NI200 coil it really shines:
I don't know what that is?
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
It's quite simple really: You insert some Rayon from one side and some from the other. Then you pull both pieces toward each-other on the same time. That way you will achieve the right density that Rayon wick requires without massing up your coil.
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Use two strands half the size 9f your wick each. Insert from opposing ends and pull thru together so they keep pressure on your coil even. It's the "double penetration " method. Works well with flimsy coils. . . or fun girls.
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