I had heard about it but was afraid to try it, thanks for the encouragement AMD. I just tried it, was easier than I expected.
Here is the new coil, wicked using the double insertion:
time for a test vape!
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DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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I had heard about it but was afraid to try it, thanks for the encouragement AMD. I just tried it, was easier than I expected.
Here is the new coil, wicked using the double insertion:
time for a test vape!
In my never-ending quest to find the perfect DNA40 Nickel build for a Kayfun (I've tried all kinds of .... , just look at all my posts in this thread) ... I've now graduated to a 28a Nickel contact coil on a 1/8" (~3.1mm) mandrel, 10 wraps coming in around .13 to .14 ohms. Fits well on top of the deck. Wicked with KGD cotton, temp at 450, watts anywhere between 13 and 17. After a tank, the cotton typically comes out a bit "stained" but certainly not getting any burnt flavors. I still hit TP pretty frequently on my longer draws... but am now not considering this a "bad build" thing based on the satisfying vape I'm getting.
I wrap the coils very tightly with a jig and blue-flame them slightly holding them with needle nose (barely any pressure, too much crushes these things EASILY) ... then glow them briefly to make sure they're heating from inside-out.
Clouds-oh-plenty for me, respectable and plenty of flavor. Not bad for a Kayfun!
I wrap the coils very tightly with a jig and blue-flame them slightly holding them with needle nose (barely any pressure, too much crushes these things EASILY) ... then glow them briefly to make sure they're heating from inside-out.
Clouds-oh-plenty for me, respectable and plenty of flavor. Not bad for a Kayfun!
Double Insertion Bump
Ok guys so finally took some pics of my wicking technique. What instigated this is that getting the right density was a headache especially for beginners. I got got the density right a lot of times but it had always one problem. The center of the cool is always the week spot. When you insert a wick it gets compressed. When you take it back and forth, you secure the edges but the middle of the coil will be the weakest point.
I have said before, when using a dripper sometimes I forget to drip or squonk. I would be busy at work and just forget. So i get a dry hit. With ever dry hit, the middle of the wick goes down. Probably because of scorching a little or because it cannot hold more juice as before I dunno but it does. After that point you will get more dry hits one after the other.
So what I did is use 2 pieces of rayon:
The pieces are of random size not too small but smaller than what you would usually use as a full wick.
You roll the edges:
And now you insert from both sides:
It is not easy the first time but gets really simple the more you do it. Once you have 2 tips showing, hold one and with the other hand (might need a tweezer, I don't anymore) pull the other end.
The trick is to pull both at the same time. They will interlock and provide a consistent thickness in the middle. Don't pull too much for it not to choke. But the benefit here is that the two pieces push each other toward the coil and push out the air without leaving gaps at the center of the coil.
Then cut the tails and put liquid.
I have been using this method for a while. Still dry hit lead to more dry hits but now you get around 4 or 5 warning toots since the wick is touching the coil in more places and takes the form of the coil. The pushing of 2 wicks ensures better coverage at the coil from the inside.
Fogger V4.3 30 Gauge NI200 with welded 26 Gauge NI200 leads and Rayon (double insertion) wicks.
26 Gauge leads are being used to support 30 gauge flimsy coils, to be able to use my drilled wire posts and to illuminate possibility of "Hot Leg" issue.
26 Gauge leads are being used to support 30 gauge flimsy coils, to be able to use my drilled wire posts and to illuminate possibility of "Hot Leg" issue.
Thanks now I understand. I will try it next build.
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Second attempt at spaced ni200 coils. 10 wraps, Japanese cotton on a 1/8 drill bit. Reading at 0.09 ohms and running it at 480° F 40 watts. Thoughts, suggestions?
Second attempt at spaced ni200 coils. 10 wraps, Japanese cotton on a 1/8 drill bit. Reading at 0.09 ohms and running it at 480° F 40 watts. Thoughts, suggestions?
Looks good. Just a suggestion but I'd tuck that cotton down carefully around the build deck and vape it. In other words looks great should work ok. Just throwing a little sarcasm out there.
Looking for something new that I like. Watch this space for new wit, halfwit, nitwit...
Soft limiting may well allow out of spec lower oHm builds to work but they might perform oddly?
Specs from the DNA 40 datasheet:
Atomizer Resistance, standard wire
.16 Ohm - Minimum
.7 Ohm - Typical
2.0 Ohms - Max
Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold
.10 Ohm - Minimum
.4 Ohm - Typical
1.0 Ohm - Max
To get the the maximum 40 watts, yes, but the DNA40 will fire nickle coils below .1 at a reduced wattage.
I don`t have a definitive answer but typically Evolv specs are conservative. Past boards perform reliably somewhat beyond the spec limits.
Picked up a not-well-known (?) AGA-T7 RTA at my local vape shop today. It's got a nice deck built for dual stacked coils... pyrex glass, 22mm, not the prettiest thing ... put a single 12 wrap 28AWG contact coil in it on the "bottom" section. Good heavens man. This thing is STRONG ... love the airflow, love the flavor. Pretty nice atty for ~$30! Running 20watts @ 450F right now and have to hold on to something after a couple of pulls. Very tasty, very strong!
EDIT: If you get one, be sure to boil the hell out of it to get all of the machine oil (and whatever else) off of it. It's an "authentic" straight from China ... when I first took it out of the box, I could barely screw it together it was so greasy. But man ... this tank is freakin' amazing... great bang for the buck. Only downside is it's a freakin' pain to fill... tiny hex screw in the top, and you MUST use a syringe in order to prevent pressure build up... do NOT force the juice in to it. Make sure air can escape out the top as you fill. If you're pushing juice in to it, every mil of juice you push in to it is going to go out the bottom. Don't ask me how I know. Oh, and it's NOT 1.5mil capacity ... more 3.5-4. Not sure why they list 1.5mils as the tank size spec.
EDIT: If you get one, be sure to boil the hell out of it to get all of the machine oil (and whatever else) off of it. It's an "authentic" straight from China ... when I first took it out of the box, I could barely screw it together it was so greasy. But man ... this tank is freakin' amazing... great bang for the buck. Only downside is it's a freakin' pain to fill... tiny hex screw in the top, and you MUST use a syringe in order to prevent pressure build up... do NOT force the juice in to it. Make sure air can escape out the top as you fill. If you're pushing juice in to it, every mil of juice you push in to it is going to go out the bottom. Don't ask me how I know. Oh, and it's NOT 1.5mil capacity ... more 3.5-4. Not sure why they list 1.5mils as the tank size spec.
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Hi guys I was looking at Alexander Mundy's thread, and he found that TP works with twisted NI200 and kanthal wires. I just did some tests and verified that it does!!! I've posted pictures and test results in the official dna40 thread, do take a look this might spell the end of dealing with horrid flimsy coils!!!
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I was looking at Alexander Mundy's thread, and he found that TP works with twisted NI200 and kanthal wires. I just did some tests and verified that it does!!! I've posted pictures and test results in the official dna40 thread, do take a look this might spell the end of dealing with horrid flimsy coils!!!Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Hi guys
nice one Kiwi, thanks for the heads up.
why add kanthal to the mix tho? why not simply twist nickel? just to make it less springy/flimsy?
please keep us posted on how it's going, cheers
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I've tried twisting 30ga Ni200 and it's still flimsy as hell even after work hardening it. It's especially annoying when working with rayon too. The resistance also drops considerably and makes it a pain to do duals.
With the kanthal, it becomes a lot a lot more robust physically. I can also comfortably do duals now without going below 0.1 ohms.
And lastly... The leads don't get sheared off by the post screws!
That said, there are def limitations. The "equivalent temperature" will vary according to the combination of wires used, how tight it's twisted etc.
I still needa do more testings tbh. GONNA be trying out 30ga NI with 30ga kanthal, and gonna see if it makes doing contact coils less finicky. Definitely just feeling around in the dark here.
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damn you, I was happy with my last coil...
no no, I mean to say thank you for the explanation!
please do share your findings with the experiments, and congrats on the second flask too
Ha! Unfortunately for me, I'm still having inconsistent experiences with Ni200, so I'm still on the hunt for a good solution. I'll keep yall posted when I have time to get all this done! Will update when I can!
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