DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[DejayRezme]

Okay here is some pictures of a flat wound coil in the Lemo.

I don't want to bash your awesome flat coil build or anything, but I think a flat coil reduces the surface / wick volume ration. Maybe that isn't a problem with the DNA40 though, you'll have less of a "reservoir" but it will give you a "boost" since a box has a larger surface area than a rod. It does look though as if you'd get a bit of a hot spot in the middle because the coil is so long.

 

[WeirdWillie]

I don't want to bash your awesome flat coil build or anything, but I think a flat coil reduces the surface / wick volume ration. Maybe that isn't a problem with the DNA40 though, you'll have less of a "reservoir" but it will give you a "boost" since a box has a larger surface area than a rod. It does look though as if you'd get a bit of a hot spot in the middle because the coil is so long.

So far I haven't experienced any hot spots, but I guess only time will tell.
The goal is to get as much saturated wick in contact coil surface area while having as much of that surface area available to airflow, not just the 2mm or so coming up threw the channel but total volume of airflow that pass threw the chamber.
To me and this might just be a placebo effect, but coiled this way compared to a round wound using the same wire at as close as I could get with the resistance, this way seems to give a thicker, juicer more flavorful vape,
And because of the shape of the coil with squarish oval profile tends to add a little more rigidity to the coil helping it to maintain it's position while inserting the wick.

 

[turbocad6]

I've tried doing coils like that with kanthal but the spring back doesn't allow it to stay square and flat like that, Ni should be perfect for odd shapes because of no springback, looks cool

 

[WeirdWillie]

Here is a single parallel 28ga Ni200 on the Magma clone.
And in the words Rip Trippers she's a chucker


ohm reader says 0.39 but the DNA40 see it as 0.12 ohms at 75 degrees but I knew the ohm reader would not be very accurate I use it to check for shorts an/or loose connections mostly.

 

[MattB101]

Here is a single parallel 28ga Ni200 on the Magma clone.
And in the words Rip Trippers she's a chucker
View attachment 393182

ohm reader says 0.39 but the DNA40 see it as 0.12 ohms at 75 degrees but I knew the ohm reader would not be very accurate I use it to check for shorts an/or loose connections mostly.
View attachment 393184

Is that two wires wrapped parallel?

 

[WeirdWillie]

Is that two wires wrapped parallel?

That would be correct.

 

[MattB101]

Thought so. Looks good. Still building my dna 40 mod. Soon though got a couple of things I have to correct and it should be done. Don't call them prototypes for nothing.

 

[doghouse]

I think this issue has been mentioned before too but my VF is definitely not working right. I've tried numerous builds and its always the same issue. A new coil seems to work fine with temp control doing what it's suppose to do but as soon as I leave the mod alone and come back to it, the resistance changes and the temp shoots up right away. This drops the wattage down to 3 to 7 watts (I have 13.5 watts set). I've tried 30 gauge and 28 gauge, contact and no contact coils. They all seem to do the same thing. When I remove the RBA and put it back on and click the option for a new coil, it starts to work fine again until I put the device down for a few minutes.

I'm pretty frustrated with this, anyone know if there is a solution for this? Thanks in advance or your help, much appreciated.

 

[DejayRezme]

I think this issue has been mentioned before too but my VF is definitely not working right. I've tried numerous builds and its always the same issue. A new coil seems to work fine with temp control doing what it's suppose to do but as soon as I leave the mod alone and come back to it, the resistance changes and the temp shoots up right away. This drops the wattage down to 3 to 7 watts (I have 13.5 watts set). I've tried 30 gauge and 28 gauge, contact and no contact coils. They all seem to do the same thing. When I remove the RBA and put it back on and click the option for a new coil, it starts to work fine again until I put the device down for a few minutes.

I'm pretty frustrated with this, anyone know if there is a solution for this? Thanks in advance or your help, much appreciated.

That is a strange issue. Does the base resistance change?
A chip with the screen glitch can reboot and then take a higher base resistance after rebooting when the coil is still warm. A too high base resistance leads to a too hot vape though where the temp levels out at false lower temperatures and temp protection won't kick in.

 

[WeirdWillie]

I think this issue has been mentioned before too but my VF is definitely not working right. I've tried numerous builds and its always the same issue. A new coil seems to work fine with temp control doing what it's suppose to do but as soon as I leave the mod alone and come back to it, the resistance changes and the temp shoots up right away. This drops the wattage down to 3 to 7 watts (I have 13.5 watts set). I've tried 30 gauge and 28 gauge, contact and no contact coils. They all seem to do the same thing. When I remove the RBA and put it back on and click the option for a new coil, it starts to work fine again until I put the device down for a few minutes.

I'm pretty frustrated with this, anyone know if there is a solution for this? Thanks in advance or your help, much appreciated.

What atty are you using?
I had a similar problem yo that and it turned out that the center air flow post on my Kayfun 3.1 was ever so slightly loose and causing the resistance to bounce around
tightened it down and that problem went away however Kayfun is not an ideal platform to put a Ni200 coil in not enough room to put a decent coil in and has the tendency to hit TP too soon producing a weak unsatisfying vape.
My personal favorites on any mod is the Lemo for a tank and Magma for a dripper these two really really shine for flavor and vapor production when they are combined with a properly working DNA40

 

[jazzvaper]

What atty are you using?
I had a similar problem yo that and it turned out that the center air flow post on my Kayfun 3.1 was ever so slightly loose and causing the resistance to bounce around tightened it down and that problem went away

Yes!!

however Kayfun is not an ideal platform to put a Ni200 coil in not enough room to put a decent coil in and has the tendency to hit TP too soon producing a weak unsatisfying vape.

Disagree. This is why I prefer contact coils: compact.

My personal favorites on any mod is the Lemo for a tank and Magma for a dripper these two really really shine for flavor and vapor production when they are combined with a properly working DNA40

I have a Lemo and Magma coming in this week. (Along with an authentic Origen and Veritas replica). Suspect I will be agreeing with you on the drippers. The Lemo is a question mark? 'Cause my Kayfun's/Russians are doing just fine...

 

[WeirdWillie]

Haha You sound just like I was, nothing could replace my beloved kayfuns, until I built my first Lemo and experience the massive amount airflow and awesome flavor and vapor production at 30+ watts heck I pushed my first Lemo to 80 watts on the IPV3 just to see if it would do it.
It was a scalding hot vape, but she didn't let me down try that with a kayfun.

 

[jazzvaper]

Haha You sound just like I was, nothing could replace my beloved kayfuns, until I built my first Lemo and experience the massive amount airflow and awesome flavor and vapor production at 30+ watts heck I pushed my first Lemo to 80 watts on the IPV3 just to see if it would do it.
It was a scalding hot vape, but she didn't let me down try that with a kayfun.

With the 40 wattage doesn't means so much.

They key with the Kayfun's/Russians was finding the "right" temp limit. So far, I've settled at 430. But, willing to continue to experiment. I am looking forward to the Lemo airflow. We'll see.

 

[BobC]

Haha You sound just like I was, nothing could replace my beloved kayfuns, until I built my first Lemo and experience the massive amount airflow and awesome flavor and vapor production at 30+ watts heck I pushed my first Lemo to 80 watts on the IPV3 just to see if it would do it.
It was a scalding hot vape, but she didn't let me down try that with a kayfun.

The key is vape & flavor, not watts, for Kayfun/R91 on a DNA40, use a vertical coil with hemp fiber/cotton surrounding the coil, not through it

 

[MidwestGuy]

Here's a photo of my parallel twisted 30AWG .13ohm Ni200 coil for my Lemo. This is my favorite so far for this atty. Temp between 420 and 450 depending on the liquid, running around 23watts. Thick tasty clouds.

 

[cjpeltz]

Any particular technique you use for twisting the nickel together?

 

[mackman]

For me I twisted it in a hand held drill just as I would kanthal.

 

[MidwestGuy]

For me I twisted it in a hand held drill just as I would kanthal.

Same here. I clamp one end down to a solid object with some vice grips and a rubber hose gasket to make sure it's good and tight, then tie the other end in to the chuck on a cordless drill. Slowly spin until it breaks off at the drill end. Flip it around and do it again one more time. At this point, the 30AWG wire is so work-hardened that it nearly stands straight! I then do a very tight tension wrap using a jig (again, with one end tied off with the vice grips). Perfect and pretty darn easy to do, plus hard to mess up when mounting the build.

 

[puffon]

Here's a photo of my parallel twisted 30AWG .13ohm Ni200 coil for my Lemo. This is my favorite so far for this atty. Temp between 420 and 450 depending on the liquid, running around 23watts. Thick tasty clouds.

View attachment 393272

My first build on the Lemo was like yours... 30ga twisted and spaced
Strange thing was, when I opened it up, the coils were no longer spaced. Moved on its own, to become touching?
Not sure if it was because it was twisted or what.

 

[danfinger]

I've been having really good luck winding nickel wire onto a fine TPI screw. Makes perfect spaced coils every time. Anchor one end near the head by winding several times, then give a little space and gently squeeze the wire into the threading of the screw, then just turn the screw while gently pinching the wire into the threads. If you do it right the wire will feed into the thread pitch without skipping or overlap. Keep turning the screw until you get the desired coil count. Once done, unwind the 'anchor' side and straighten that leg out. Unscrew the coil almost to the end of the screw and then mount in your posts (I wrap around instead of using the holes) once the coil is mounted unscrew the screw from the coil ... gently. Then wick.

No tempering or pulsing required. I'm using 30g and aim for .15Ohm