I use a screw as well, 6-32 to be exact. One can tighten up the spacing by squeezing the coil cold, it stays even but tighter.
Rockin the Magama here too, what superb atty!
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DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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I use a screw as well, 6-32 to be exact. One can tighten up the spacing by squeezing the coil cold, it stays even but tighter.
Rockin the Magama here too, what superb atty!
So ... I'm still new to this coil, I've ran about three tanks with it so far. I'm loving the twisted 30AWG. I have the airflow wide open on my Lemo, and I get nothing but super flavorful dense clouds of tasty vapor with very mild little crackles and pops throughout the draw (which I like!) - with the liquids I've used with this coil so far (I believe they're all 50/50) - five pawns "Fifth Rank", Five Pawns "Bowden's Mate", and Nicoticket "Creme Brûlée" - the coil is perfectly clean, like I've run nothing through it... same for the wicks (this is after 15ml or so). My TP is set at 450 but I'm barely hitting 410 @ 22 watts. I have plenty of room to increase wattage, but the vapor at 22W is almost too much. Amazing. Knowing me, I'm sure I'll continue trying different builds, but geez, this one is pretty fantastic and so easy to build/work with! I know I have to assign some credit to the Lemo as well... a fantastic little device.
Now you understand why I've been singing the Lemo praises since August
I know you wrote this awhile ago- but I'm still kind of confused on what you wrote
You said that if there was any kind of additional resistance (due to bad connectivity) at my initial reading the chip will inaccurately report the temp lower than it really is...which I agree 100%.. I just want to know how the chip recognizes that the resistance is settling down to an 'accurate ohm reading'/'correct level' if it had bad connectivity to begin with? Wouldn't this just give an inaccurate base resistance? Does the bad connectivity just get ignored or is it factored in? I'm confused.
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I'm not sure when and how exactly the DNA40 "corrects" a changing base resistance, but it does. I guess the chip assumes that if you don't fire it for a while the coil will be at room temperature and adjusts the base resistance. This corrects the wrong base resistance when you screw in (or build a coil while screwed on) and the coil is warm. That might be what happened as you described it. Temp leveling out at 300°F is not normal. You should only get miniscule vapor at 300°F.
A different thing is if you have a connectivity problem, especially if it's fluctuating. In that case any additional resistance gets "ignored" in the sense that the DNA40 can't know about it and thus isn't factoring it in. So when you fire, the resistance isn't rising fast enough and the resistance curve would be flatter than usual. So the chip puts more power in, temp is read too low and your vape is too hot. If the curve gets "too flat" the chip assumes you are using kanthal instead of nickel and switches to V. But this part shouldn't be happening when you just screwed the atty in when the coil is still warm.
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Even with the mod and atty at room temp- I get random resistance readings every time I unscrew/screw the atty back on.For example, my evenly spaced 10wrap 5/64bit 30GA ni200 440F(using 99VG) is supposed to bring me around 0.14-0.15ohm on my Lemo with 1.5wraps around each post tightly secured. I decided to record all my initial resistance readings using 3 methods:
1.) just normally screwing/unscrewing the atty (only got the prompt 'new coil' sometimes)
2.) forcing it to prompt me 'new coil' by pre-firing while screwing the atty on and doing 1/4 turns.
3.) forcing it to prompt me 'new coil' by taking the battery off/on .
All 3 methods obtained different readings (n=18). The max ohm reading I obtained was 0.28 and my min ohm reading was 0.16. The median was below the average.
Since my build is supposed to be around 0.15ohm, I repeated all 3 steps till I got 0.16ohm- which was the min and closest reading to my build.
First 3 minutes of chain-vaping at 25W- I wasn't hitting TP or throttling down the W.. but temps were floating around low 300F. Vape was warm but kind of hot. Then it randomly spiked up to 0.17ohms. Temps were still floating in low 300F's but even lower. Which confirms what you have said. Now if I leave it idle at room temp for about 30minutes. I pick it up to chain vape again and the ohm dropped to 0.15ohms. Now it seems to be vaping correctly because my temp's are climbing up to the 400's and still not hitting TP or wattage throttle. Vape is warm and pretty good. Now if I leave it idle at room temp for 3hours. I pick it up to chain vape again and the ohm dropped to 0.14ohms. But this time I can only chain vape twice due to wattage throttling down and hitting TP. To make sure that 0.14ohm is my established base resistance.. I left it alone for the entire night- and it stayed put at 0.14ohms.
My coil isn't moving when leads are tightened down. Coils are evenly spaced. Good 510 connection, No hot spots. Good wick. Atty/Mod is at same room temp. I just don't know see how I'm getting connectivity problems. I'm pretty positive its the chip itself. I think I stated before that my friend has a DNA40 and it worked perfectly fine.. I took his atty off let it cool to room temp and tried firing it on mine. Ohms were fluctuating like crazy. I'm probably going to send this to Hana again but going to wait till my rdna40 gets in before I ship it off (This is my only mod/vape source... I started vaping 8weeks ago ;p).
Well first congratulations on picking up vaping! And you're already in the advanced class!
What you describe could be explained by the coil still being warm when screwing the atty on. But I guess you eliminated that? I get that quite often after vaping and then replacing the battery. It takes a good while for the coils to cool off on my magma. If you want to "force" it you could test this again and hold the coil under running water to make sure it's cold / room temp.
Could be a different bug too of course.
I guess you can just compare the behavior with the rDNA40 when it arrives.
It is quite possible that they did tinker with the firmware to change how the DNA40 adjusts the base resistance. Mine also sometimes goes 0.01 ohm higher but it doesn't affect the vape that drastically. Personally I would love a way for to stop the DNA40 readjust the resistance. Just measure it when I screw it one and never change it again even when replacing the battery. Then you wouldn't have problems in cold weather either.
Well first congratulations on picking up vaping! And you're already in the advanced class!
Thanks man. I learn the most from this forum and members like you. I just get tooooo obsessed with things... lol. After a week of getting into it and researching on what to buy- I was like ego c-twist? evod? mvp2? No thanks. Bring on the DNA-40
What you describe could be explained by the coil still being warm when screwing the atty on. But I guess you eliminated that? I get that quite often after vaping and then replacing the battery. It takes a good while for the coils to cool off on my magma. If you want to "force" it you could test this again and hold the coil under running water to make sure it's cold / room temp.
Yes I eliminated the temperature variable by just letting it sit and sit and sit...... Kind of sucks.. because I CAN"T VAPE! Hm I never thought of running it under water. I'll give it a shot!
Could be a different bug too of course.
I guess you can just compare the behavior with the rDNA40 when it arrives.
Yep.. that's why I ordered it.. and of course the $150 price tag.
It is quite possible that they did tinker with the firmware to change how the DNA40 adjusts the base resistance. Mine also sometimes goes 0.01 ohm higher but it doesn't affect the vape that drastically. Personally I would love a way for to stop the DNA40 readjust the resistance. Just measure it when I screw it one and never change it again even when replacing the battery. Then you wouldn't have problems in cold weather either. I CONCUR!!!!
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Haha well actually I think this obsession actually helps overcoming analog cigarettes. At least for me as a nerd
The whole hobby and community aspect helps you with quitting.
A longer nickel coil in a Veritas didn't help keep me interested for long... Something about it just wasn't as satisfying as others... This atty might be better with hybrid or titanium coils?
Hello guys I need your help. I bought a vaporshark rdna 40 and I want to buy nickel wire for my kayfun builds.
Since I haven't bought NR wire before I wanted to ask you. Currently I am running normal 28g kanthal a1 microcoils (around 1,4-1,5ohm), what gauge of Ni200 should I buy to match that?
Thank you in advance.
Since I haven't bought NR wire before I wanted to ask you. Currently I am running normal 28g kanthal a1 microcoils (around 1,4-1,5ohm), what gauge of Ni200 should I buy to match that?
Thank you in advance.
TyCreek: coil-a-holic ;-)
I'll be happy to take that unsatisfying Veritas off your hands!
Theo -
Experience has taught me that 28g for Nickel isn't a good place to start - it's thicker, but it is such low resistance that I have trouble getting coils to fit. I did some builds with TyCreek over the weekend and we were using twisted 32g. Works well - I've ordered some 30 and 32 to experiment with.
There is a big learning curve with nickel. Your resistance with nickel will be no where near your 1.4ish kanthal builds. I hope you have at least 2 tanks, one to keep vaping kanthal, and the other to learn nickel on. There is more than a couple things that come into play with nickel that didn't with kanthal.
This was just posted in another thread. I have been using a build similar to this (9 wraps instead of 8) for a couple weeks and it has been great. The screw really helps keep the coil formed correctly.
Edit: I have been using 28g Ni200
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Don't even bother with anything 26g or thicker, you'll use a ton of metal to just get to 0.05 ohms.
I'm going to try some 26g (when I get it)
Steam Engine shows 9 wraps on 3.5mm will give .10
Yep, but those figures are on the outside margins - you can't go dual, can't really do twisted or other forms that are not a single coiled wire, can't go much narrower than 3.5mm, can't do fewer than 9 wraps. I just figure narrower than 26g gives one a bit more flexibility - and I'm sitting on about 8000 pounds of 26g Ni200 myself.
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