DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[puffon]

Yep, but those figures are on the outside margins - you can't go dual, can't really do twisted or other forms that are not a single coiled wire, can't go much narrower than 3.5mm, can't do fewer than 9 wraps. I just figure narrower than 26g gives one a bit more flexibility - and I'm sitting on about 8000 pounds of 26g Ni200 myself.

Yes, this Ni200 is restricting.
Tried a triple strand 32g, even that was a challenge for my old eyes.
So you are the reason Tempco is backordered on the 26g, LOL...

 

[HolmanGT]

Yes, this Ni200 is restricting.
Tried a triple strand 32g, even that was a challenge for my old eyes.
So you are the reason Tempco is backordered on the 26g, LOL...

If he has 8000 pounds of Ni200 he is Temco

 

[cjpeltz]

I also just bought a VS rDNA40 - hasn't been shipped yet, but in prep for it, I did buy a spool of 28 gauge Nickel on ebay - mainly because I was used to that gauge size. If it doesn't work out, I'll shoot for 30 or 32 gauge. It will be a learning process.

 

[HolmanGT]

I also just bought a VS rDNA40 - hasn't been shipped yet, but in prep for it, I did buy a spool of 28 gauge Nickel on ebay - mainly because I was used to that gauge size. If it doesn't work out, I'll shoot for 30 or 32 gauge. It will be a learning process.

I think you will need the 30 Ga. the 28 Ga works if you do the twelve turns 3mm ID coils @ 0.15 ohms and all of that will fit your atty. The 30 Ga gives you a little more room to work in tight place. The 32 Ga is great for building coils that have a reasonable resistance and stay small BUT you almost have to be a Swiss Watch Maker to work with the 32 Ga. That stuff is so flimsy if you just bump it you get to start over.

 

[TyCreek]

TyCreek: coil-a-holic ;-)

I'll be happy to take that unsatisfying Veritas off your hands!

My Veritas attys are CH modified for bottom feed. Once you go BF ...

 

[OthatGuy]

My Veritas attys are CH modified for bottom feed. Once you go BF ...

You realize how much money you spent on crap you don't use anyone! Haha!

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

There is a big learning curve with nickel. Your resistance with nickel will be no where near your 1.4ish kanthal builds. I hope you have at least 2 tanks, one to keep vaping kanthal, and the other to learn nickel on. There is more than a couple things that come into play with nickel that didn't with kanthal.

This was just posted in another thread. I have been using a build similar to this (9 wraps instead of 8) for a couple weeks and it has been great. The screw really helps keep the coil formed correctly.

Edit: I have been using 28g Ni200

To do a dual coil in a RDA sounds like it's going to be impossible because your resistance is going to be so low. Anyone try this?

 

[TheKiwi]

To do a dual coil in a RDA sounds like it's going to be impossible because your resistance is going to be so low. Anyone try this?

Been using 30ga for duals. 13 wraps on 3/32 each.


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[iilex]

I'll admit I haven't combed through the 67 pages here, but from my moderate skimming I seem to be seeing some confusion here.

Nickel wire changes electrical resistance under temperatures; at a very measurable interval. Your coil calculators will only be telling you how to build based on your RESTING resistance.

As nickel heats up, so does your Ohm reading. This is why everyone who's used Nickel before on anything like a mech or conventional regulators will tell you they hate it, because of its "Awful ramp up time". The DNA40 calculates the resting resistance and presents an algorithm to boost and throttle wattage to maintain your desired temperature. VV devices take amp draw and moderate current pressure in respects to your amps. VW will take amp draw and boost/knock voltage in respects to your resistance. VT devices like the DNA40 will now moderate WATTS and therefor RESISTANCE based on your temperature. The independent variable here has changed; and with it, the name of vaping.

This is the next step.

Keeping your locked variable at watts with conventional regulation tells you how quickly you get to an undisclosed temperature as it plateaus. Because of that, and other circumstances made by juice, airflow, and wicking; You are presented with builds that are either Low ramp up high draw time, or high ramp up low draw time. Abusing these extremes either gives you a dead draw, or a burnt hit.

Temperature regulation will be able to boost or throttle your wattage to get to your temperature as quickly as possible, and moderate it so that it STAYS there. In theory, this can mitigate lost ejuice and wasted battery to virtually perfect efficiency.


If this has been said before, sorry for beating the horse; but if I could inform at least a couple of you fellow vapers, it's all worth the chance.

I really hope that helped clear the air!

 

[DejayRezme]

Here is a recent interview with Brandon on VapourTrailsTV. The interview starts at about 10min:
http://youtu.be/-2ypik16QdA

I'll just post this summary from holman here just in case someone isn't following the other DNA40 thread, but maybe best to discuss the interview in the other thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cial-dna-40-introduction-69.html#post14742550

IMHO this is what was said of value:
1. Thru hole post suck.
2. Micro touching coils can and most likely will cause you troubles.
3. The only know problems with the DNA-40 are the screen glitches. They think they have them fixed.
4. Most of the problems other than the screen issues are bad connections.
a. thru hole connections. Brandon mentioned using a couple of piece of heavy Kanthal to crimp the Ni200. I use Sterling Silver crimps (works great).
b intermittent touching coils.
c. 510 connection issues.
5. Generally a steep learning curve compared to non TP mode.
6. Picking up bad coil resistance measurements. Typically caused by a difference in coil temperature and the DNA40 board temperature. Solution; let the joined mod and atty sit for (I don't remember how long he said exactly) 7 or 8 minutes and the unit will self adjust and will continue to refine the readings for an hour after the last firing.

 

[coolercoiler]

I am running a 0.08ohm 2 strand twisted 29g contact microcoil 10 wraps 2.4mm id on a kayfun and a 0.12hm duel 29g 12 wraps 3mm id contact on a plume veil and have not had any problems at all with the vaporflask dna40, these are my first ni200 builds .The kayfun is at 450f / 30w and the plumeveil is at 450f / 40w .I get no dry hits or temp cut outs on either and my ohm readouts dont change. Maybe all the problems that others are experiencing are in the build of the mod, not the function of the chip.

 

[DejayRezme]

From what I understand contact coils can work if all the wraps are touching evenly and the contact areas doesn't change with heat (metal expanding). I'd still recommend wrapping on an appropriate screw with fine pitch and just squeeze the coil a bit. That way they won't be touching but you don't loose much space.

 

[Woofer]

I am running a 0.08ohm 2 strand twisted 29g contact microcoil 10 wraps 2.4mm id on a kayfun and a 0.12hm duel 29g 12 wraps 3mm id contact on a plume veil and have not had any problems at all with the vaporflask dna40, these are my first ni200 builds .The kayfun is at 450f / 30w and the plumeveil is at 450f / 40w .I get no dry hits or temp cut outs on either and my ohm readouts dont change. Maybe all the problems that others are experiencing are in the build of the mod, not the function of the chip.

I have the same results with my VaporShark, my DNA 40 board works perfectly. Give the DNA 40 a stable electrical connection and it sings. I've tried 3 Russian 91% (UCT-Kebo) and all needed tightening up. My Magma and Origen have always worked perfectly.

I know its fun to get all hot and bothered, rant and try to make up serial numbers but seriously time would be better spent looking at attys and builds for less then rock stable connections. It's not hard and if one is not willing to do that then probably the DNA 40 TP is not for them. Don't hate me.

 

[jazzvaper]

I have the same results with my VaporShark, my DNA 40 board works perfectly. Give the DNA 40 a stable electrical connection and it sings. I've tried 3 Russian 91% (UCT-Kebo) and all needed tightening up. My Magma and Origen have always worked perfectly.

I know its fun to get all hot and bothered, rant and try to make up serial numbers but seriously time would be better spent looking at attys and builds for less then rock stable connections. It's not hard and if one is not willing to do that then probably the DNA 40 TP is not for them. Don't hate me.

I hate him, I hate him not...

On my troublesome R91 I added an additional O-ring to the 510 screw...then a third. Now both the leaking and the connection issue has disappeared.

Makes me wonder whether UCT-Kebo was psychic to include that many tiny O-rings.

 

[OthatGuy]

+1 woofer!

 

[Woofer]

I hate him, I hate him not...

On my troublesome R91 I added an additional O-ring to the 510 screw...then a third. Now both the leaking and the connection issue has disappeared.

Makes me wonder whether UCT-Kebo was psychic to include that many tiny O-rings.

Excellent I think I have 3 R91 working well now too. One has a badly collapsed deck insulator, oops
I have two O rings in one R91, I'm going to try and find some metal tubing to replace them

Really enjoying the build in the R91 I'm vaping, 0.13 ohms 14 watts 420 degrees, good vapor and excellent taste. I'll be taking notes on this build. I've had it outside, in a cold vehicle and inside it's performed perfect in all cases. Happy about that!

 

[Woofer]

+1 woofer!

Thank you sir!

 

[KimchiCuresEbola]

Has anyone tried 2 strand twisted 28 gauge ni200 yet? Would that be too thick?

 

[TheKiwi]

Has anyone tried 2 strand twisted 28 gauge ni200 yet? Would that be too thick?

Lmao. You'll have a massive coil with a gabillion wraps


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[KimchiCuresEbola]

Lmao. You'll have a massive coil with a gabillion wraps


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Haha... Christ I had a brain fart. It's been way too long since I've taken Physics. Just getting into rebuilds, had forgotten that lower gauge = lower resistance....

I see you're from the mean streets of Durham - I'm a North Carolinian as well. Used to hop over to Shooters on occasion when I went to UNC.