DNA20 Wood/Metal Box

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bapgood

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Connector supplies :)

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bapgood

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I was thinking about trying this paste. Hows yours working out for you?

The aluminum solder paste is awesome for lipo tabs. For tabs that have little solder the paste greatly reduces the pita factor and heat required to solder.

I haven't tried the other all around paste yet.
 

Java_Az

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Thanks!

I wanted to ask you and asdaq what you guys recommend for solder and flux for copper and brass? I want to start experimenting a little.

Brass will take regular Electronics grade solder. Just hit the spot with a file or sandpaper first since electronics grade solder flux is not that acidic the area needs to be pretty clean and non oxidized . If your going to solder to that big brass nut you made it is going to take a serious iron to tin it, since it is pretty big going to take quite a bit of heat. If you have a hot plate you can warm the nut up on it and it will make tinning it easier. Small torch is what i would use on a nut like that , if you have one it would be the easiest.
 

bapgood

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Brass will take regular Electronics grade solder. Just hit the spot with a file or sandpaper first since electronics grade solder flux is not that acidic the area needs to be pretty clean and non oxidized . If your going to solder to that big brass nut you made it is going to take a serious iron to tin it, since it is pretty big going to take quite a bit of heat. If you have a hot plate you can warm the nut up on it and it will make tinning it easier. Small torch is what i would use on a nut like that , if you have one it would be the easiest.

Thanks!

I was actually meaning more towards copper/brass for steampunk stuff. I have been doing some research and it seems like the jewelry making suppliers have a good selection of stuff.

I didn't think the brass nuts where to bad to tin and I didn't even use flux. I have a Hakko 65w solder station and I just got a new 4 in 1 Xtronic station with hot air gun for SMT and 70w iron, just got it out of the box so I haven't tried it yet.

Hoping maybe the hot air gun will come in handy for some steampunk soldering
 

bapgood

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Fresh off the lathe (yeah it looks just like the other one)....but this one was with the awesome SS 316L tubing I wanted to try out.....center hole was perfect, just tapped it - turned down the side - cut the outside threads with a die - cut it off - cleaned up and polished the head

The 316 seemed to machine easier than my unknown ss grade bolts I was using.

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bapgood

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I've got 1mm 96Sn4Ag but wish it were thinner. My flux is some Termopasty (from Poland, I dunno, medium something) and Activated Rosin for the tip. I'm sure gravefox has something much more impressive. :)

Bap, the HF lathe is OK with the SS? Sure seems easy enough.

It does ok....I use cobalt drill bits and I can't take huge passes when turning down the OD...it a lot slower than aluminum.

I wouldn't want to try large diameter pieces, boring, or try to use the feed to cut threads.

Both brass and stainless are soft and sticky.
 

Java_Az

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It does ok....I use cobalt drill bits and I can't take huge passes when turning down the OD...it a lot slower than aluminum.

I wouldn't want to try large diameter pieces, boring, or try to use the feed to cut threads.

Both brass and stainless are soft and sticky.

I use my knuckle buster ( HF 7x lathe) all the time to cut threads into stainless. I have done a mod or two to it though. Bought mine used so it was pretty loose when i got it. adjusting the gibs and the saddle made a huge difference. Tapered roller bearing mod also helps out alot. I for sure want something bigger though tired of busting my knuckles on the tiny damn handles the lathe has. thinking about the 10x22 grizzly sells G0752 10" x 22" Variable Speed Lathe
 
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