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Love your work, bap!! I was looking at some steam punk stuff a couple of weeks ago and was just mesmerized. Don't know what exactly it is about it, but it's pretty damn cool. Reminds me of Wild Wild West 
I do like the way that Smithy 1220 LTD looks (as far as features) but it can't be separated to make a separate mill and lathe.
On that note, I have a line on an "old" (1960's) Clausing 5914 12" X 36" lathe that I am currently "evaluating" for purchase. Anyone have thoughts on this puppy?
I do like the way that Smithy 1220 LTD looks (as far as features) but it can't be separated to make a separate mill and lathe.
On that note, I have a line on an "old" (1960's) Clausing 5914 12" X 36" lathe that I am currently "evaluating" for purchase. Anyone have thoughts on this puppy?
@bapgood
I usually use a sillver/brass solder for most of my mods, I find that using tin/silver based solder on brass and copper usually degrades specially when there is a current running through it. I usually melt 60% percent sterling silver and 40% brass for my solder. I just have a hard time soldering brass and copper together even with a silver flux since copper loves to oxidize when fire is applied to it which makes a bad solder with gaps. Though I'd recommend borax than boric acid as a flux since boric acid is hard to get rid of when it gunks. If you mix the ratio of brass and silver you can get different solders that melt faster or slower when heating. I do sometimes use cadmium/silver solder but I find it too dangerous for home use since the cadmium is highly toxic.
I usually use a sillver/brass solder for most of my mods, I find that using tin/silver based solder on brass and copper usually degrades specially when there is a current running through it. I usually melt 60% percent sterling silver and 40% brass for my solder. I just have a hard time soldering brass and copper together even with a silver flux since copper loves to oxidize when fire is applied to it which makes a bad solder with gaps. Though I'd recommend borax than boric acid as a flux since boric acid is hard to get rid of when it gunks. If you mix the ratio of brass and silver you can get different solders that melt faster or slower when heating. I do sometimes use cadmium/silver solder but I find it too dangerous for home use since the cadmium is highly toxic.
Is there a commercially available 60/40 silver/brass solder? I wouldn't know the first thing about making my own solder. I do have an oxy/acetylene torch, and if its easy enough i would give it a try.
Love your work, bap!! I was looking at some steam punk stuff a couple of weeks ago and was just mesmerized. Don't know what exactly it is about it, but it's pretty damn cool. Reminds me of Wild Wild West
I do like the way that Smithy 1220 LTD looks (as far as features) but it can't be separated to make a separate mill and lathe.
On that note, I have a line on an "old" (1960's) Clausing 5914 12" X 36" lathe that I am currently "evaluating" for purchase. Anyone have thoughts on this puppy?
I have heard a lot of guys that love the old lathes and Clausing stands out in my head as one of the more sought after, but I don't know much about the old lathes. The one thing about old lathes is they are old and have had a chance to be well used, and you run into the possibility of worn out ways and other parts. Depending on the price and the condition something like the Clausing could be very good find. When I was looking for and shopping lathes I couldn't find hardly any working old metal lathes, people seem to hold on to them and if they are sold its usually through an acquaintance.
Your right about the mill head on the smithy, but I look at it as almost a free/very cheap luxury bonus. I have heard great things about smithy's quality from people I trust that have owned them. I'm not saying that grizzly or etc. are bad, I just haven't talked to anyone who has one.
@bapgood
If you have a torch then you can do it and your torch is way hotter than mine cause my torch uses gasoline and a foot pump. As long as you do it in a well ventilated area since brass does also have dangerous fumes. All you need is some silver and brass, just sprinkle some borax while melting the two together on top of a brick cause borax while it acts as a flux also lessens the fumes and also make the the melting faster. For small projects you'd only need a 2-3 grams of this kind of solder since if you flux it well it will spread out evenly with a small amount as long as you heat the object you are soldering properly. The trick to this type of soldering, specially with a high heat torch is know when the metal you are soldering is nearing it's melting point otherwise you'll have a melted part or even melt all of it. It takes a lot of practice to do it right. It's also best to find a smaller torch like the Little Torch that can use oxy/acetylene gas since a big torch would have a higher probability of melting a small metal object while soldering. There are tons of tutorials on youtube regarding this type of soldering as I am having a bit of a hard time explaining the whole process since english isn't my native tongue and we use our local language to name our tools.
If you have a torch then you can do it and your torch is way hotter than mine cause my torch uses gasoline and a foot pump. As long as you do it in a well ventilated area since brass does also have dangerous fumes. All you need is some silver and brass, just sprinkle some borax while melting the two together on top of a brick cause borax while it acts as a flux also lessens the fumes and also make the the melting faster. For small projects you'd only need a 2-3 grams of this kind of solder since if you flux it well it will spread out evenly with a small amount as long as you heat the object you are soldering properly. The trick to this type of soldering, specially with a high heat torch is know when the metal you are soldering is nearing it's melting point otherwise you'll have a melted part or even melt all of it. It takes a lot of practice to do it right. It's also best to find a smaller torch like the Little Torch that can use oxy/acetylene gas since a big torch would have a higher probability of melting a small metal object while soldering. There are tons of tutorials on youtube regarding this type of soldering as I am having a bit of a hard time explaining the whole process since english isn't my native tongue and we use our local language to name our tools.
Thanks!
Yeah I wasn't planning on using the torch to do most of the soldering, I was just thinking it may be needed to make the solder. I have several brazing tip for the oxy torch as well as a propane torch/butane torch/pencil butane torch/hot air solder gun/70 watt soldering iron. So I figure when it comes to heat I'll just have to figure out which one for the application, but I do like the little jewelry oxy torches.
I have been doing some research and will likely start off with some off the shelf solder and flux, but I think making your own solder is awesome.
I have several ideas in my head that I cant wait to try, thanks for your input!
What? did you just rip your shop apart man? Your gona build a new shelving system aren't you. And a new table lol.
Lol your work area is waaaaay more cleaner and neater than mine.....probably a lot less toxic too.
Haha....yeah I plan on rebuilding....it was just driving me nuts.
The plan is to run the bench full length (12') with a full length shelf underneath similar to the first one, full length over head shelf with lights underneath, and as much gd pegboard as I can put
The plan is to run the bench full length (12') with a full length shelf underneath similar to the first one, full length over head shelf with lights underneath, and as much gd pegboard as I can put
Haha....You should have seen it before, that's less than a 1/4 of the stuff that was occupying that space.
I know it's hard to organize when you got lots of equipment around. It also drives me nuts if my workbench is disorganized but it just easily gets that way no matter how I try to keep neat. When you work and get really into it you tend to just grab everything and then realize the mess you made after you finish working. If I ever get that laithe I've been wanting for so long I'm sure that our shop would look like a battlefield. I think I need to thank you for reminding me that I also need to reorganize my workspace, cause I've been missing some tools and I'm sure they're all underneath the mess I've been making for weeks
I know it's hard to organize when you got lots of equipment around. It also drives me nuts if my workbench is disorganized but it just easily gets that way no matter how I try to keep neat. When you work and get really into it you tend to just grab everything and then realize the mess you made after you finish working. If I ever get that laithe I've been wanting for so long I'm sure that our shop would look like a battlefield. I think I need to thank you for reminding me that I also need to reorganize my workspace, cause I've been missing some tools and I'm sure they're all underneath the mess I've been making for weeks
That's funny....because its true...I remember twice as I was picking up, going oh there that effing thing is.
I started contemplating bringing my lathe in the house from out in the shop. But then I realized it was easier to walk up the stairs and out side then to get murdered
Someday maybe .....I have had this Steampunk Gatling Mod Concept bouncing around my head so I had to get it modeled up conceptually....but If I can figure out how to work it all out, it will have fan assist to blow out vapor while the faux barrels are spinning....If I can figure all that out the faux barrels will be shielded with a thin FQ tube.
.....I have had this Steampunk Gatling Mod Concept bouncing around my head so I had to get it modeled up conceptually....but If I can figure out how to work it all out, it will have fan assist to blow out vapor while the faux barrels are spinning....If I can figure all that out the faux barrels will be shielded with a thin FQ tube.
Haha....yeah I plan on rebuilding....it was just driving me nuts.
The plan is to run the bench full length (12') with a full length shelf underneath similar to the first one, full length over head shelf with lights underneath, and as much gd pegboard as I can put
for lighting, go with the strips of LED's with the power converter off amazon. really low draw and plenty of light output.
I have a couple 3' sections of those but I also have 4 4' flouresents. I will probably just use two of the fluorescents.
Someday maybe
Ahh, in the weaponry division, nice choice. A HDD spindle cap could be helpful (if not for the part at least as a template) if you go with 6 or 8 barrels: A 3.5" drive has a cap that the barrels would fit around a 14500 battery.
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