• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

    View thread

DNA20 Wood/Metal Box

Status
Not open for further replies.

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
While on amazon I also picked up some silicone shielded fine strand 20gauge and 24gauge wire

Its a little pricy but the silicone holds up well to heat and between the fine strands and silicone shielding its a lot more flex friendly for routing and etc. I have used similar (larger) for rc stuff and it is great stuff. I picked up some 20gauge wire from a local auto parts store and it had like 6-8 strands of wire, it was stiff and a pita.
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
Heat reforms that stuff so a mod case wouldn't be so durable. Better for making mock ups.

It takes 140*-160*f to soften it up....no PV or mod that I'm aware of gets that hot.

I have molded stuff with kydex which is similar for molding temps and etc. I don't think either would be a problem for use in building mods.
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
This is just the short version of this thread from about a year ago: VapeGate • View topic - InstaMorph Heat from the atty sinking to the connector for example, could weaken the connector to the box connection.

I didn't read through the whole thread. Did anyone ever try it?

I ordered some to play with. Regardless of its use as an enclosure it looks to be handy to have around.

I will build some kind of a mock up and add an aty connector and run it through some testing.
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
Looking good Bapgood,,, did you think at all about making a SS Catchcup that your 510 connector would thread through, so you wouldn't ever get any juice on the top of the Mod ? just a thought.

Yes I thought about it, and that would have been one more piece of ss to machine :D

I may try one with a ss catch cup and a brass negative body that has shoulder, so it can be inserted from the inside and catch cup screwed on from the outside holding it all together.

Might actually be easier that way, and the new piece wouldn't be needed.
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
Just want to give a big shout out to Evolv and their fabulous customer support :toast:

:headbang: Evolv You Rock :headbang:

I haven't been completely forthcoming about all my trials and shortcomings from the past Saturday. My ego is still recovering, but acceptance is a big part of the recovery process :D. It was a day I would have made more progress staying away from projects and tools completely.

Before I ever got to working on the actual DNA board, I had already burned my thumbs to the point of blisters - drilled my finger - and smashed my hand with the hammer.

Once I got to the bench to solder up the DNA, I realized I had finally pushed the tip on my adjustable heat soldering station iron to its end and had procrastinated on ordering replacements. So I dug out my old radio shack fixed heat pencil iron (I felt like I was soldering with a mid evil sword), opened up my auto parts store purchased 20g wire (with like 6-8 strands of wire, it felt almost like solid wire), and scrounged up some uber thin servo wire for my tac buttons, despite it all I pushed on.

During the process of trying to put the mod together, the combination of tight space, solder sword, thick and thin wire, had all got the best of me. Once I finally got the mod together it didn't work, somewhere along the way I had somehow ruined the DNA that had just recently been working fine on the bench.

So having two DNA boards I persevered and swapped out the bad DNA for my other good DNA. By this time I was getting acclimated to my solder sword and everything was going good. The new DNA was all hooked up and working nestled tightly into its place.

Now this is when the :evil: fire incident occurred. Amazingly enough afterwords the DNA still worked, less one capacitor.

After some clean up and quite time, I removed the other cap in the fire area of the DNA board and cleaned the pcb, then swapped the caps from the first DNA I ruined onto the fire DNA.

I sent Evolv pics and a description of the what happened and my cap replacement with the fire DNA. They quickly responded that they thought the fire DNA should be good to use, and that they would replace the other DNA. They also gave my kudos for my build as they have been following it here on ECF. So DNA modders feel proud that Evolv is keeping their ear to the ground following your DNA mod threads!!!

I am now patiently awaiting new tips for my solder station, good and proper size wire, and a few other supplies....while emotionally and physically recovering from a horrible Karma retribution day.....Karma I promise I'll be good from now on :cry:
 
Last edited:

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
My latest design for the 6000
- 0.050" Aluminum Bent C Frame
- 0.028" Kydex Sides
- 0.080" Lexan Face Plate....clear with back side tinted ala d9mel and mamu....secured with magnets
- 7.5 amp Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse


ScreenShot554.jpg


ScreenShot555.jpg
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
Nice drawing.....can't wait to see the completed mod...

Thanks....Me either....my fuse stuff is coming on the slow boat from a mouser warehouse in texas.....ordered Monday wont get here till the next Moday....last time ordered from mouser it was here in like 3 days....but I can't remeber where it shipped from....ohh well

That fuse/fuse holder is going to dictate the final width....oh oh....not if I turn it vertical....ugg...but then it would be a PITA to pull....hmm....probably like shown
 

mwa102464

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
14,447
12,564
Outside of the Philadelphia Burbs, NJ & Fla
My latest design for the 6000
- 0.050" Aluminum Bent C Frame
- 0.028" Kydex Sides
- 0.080" Lexan Face Plate....clear with back side tinted ala d9mel and mamu....secured with magnets
- 7.5 amp Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse


ScreenShot554.jpg


ScreenShot555.jpg


That's the catch cup I wanted to see, I'm really liking this, right on Bapgood
 

d9mel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
498
369
Spa City
Hey bap, what's your experience with cold li-po's? I left my mod in my car, went into class for 3 hours and when I got out the display read "weak battery". The air temp is in the high 20's. After the mod warmed up it worked fine battery was fully charged the whole time.

have you had this happen before? What is a average low end operational temp for li-po's?

I'm digging the revised design, if you have any of those 510 connectors left over you can send one my wayX)
 

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
42
Utah
Hey bap, what's your experience with cold li-po's? I left my mod in my car, went into class for 3 hours and when I got out the display read "weak battery". The air temp is in the high 20's. After the mod warmed up it worked fine battery was fully charged the whole time.

have you had this happen before? What is a average low end operational temp for li-po's?

I'm digging the revised design, if you have any of those 510 connectors left over you can send one my wayX)

You call that cold? Monday it was -20 in the morning and never got above zero all day here....it's warmed up a little since, but Monday was a cold mother.

To lipo's.....yes that is very common they don't like the cold. I have heard of people completely loosing their batteries leaving them overnight in the cold.... But then cold is relative :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread