Does the LM2577 need 1.5 ohm or more?

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Led Hendriani

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I just got this from China and it seems to be working great with my GTUS! Just wondering if I am going to fry something if my rebuildables coils go too low on the ohms...tried 4.8 and it was a bit too high, trying 4.6 and seems great on the GTUS at 1.6 ohms, although I may go to 4.5 soon to try it there...
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Description:

Simple Switching Type Step-Up Voltage Regulator Module. Based on LM2577-ADJ IC
The LM2577 is monolithic integrated circuits that provide all of the power and control functions for step-up (boost), flyback, and forward converter switching regulators.
Requiring a minimum number of external components, this regulators is cost effective, and simple to use.
Included on the chip is a 3.0A NPN switch and its associated protection circuitry, consisting of current and thermal limiting,and undervoltage lockout. Other features include a 52 kHz fixed-frequency oscillator that requires no external components, a soft start mode to reduce in-rush current during start-up, and current mode control for improved rejection of input voltage and output load transients.
Application:
Simple boost regulator
Flyback and forward regulators
Multiple-output regulator
Specifications:
Dimension: 43 (L) * 20 (W) * 13 (H) mm (with potentiometer)
Input voltage: DC 3.0 - 33.5V
Output Voltage: DC 4.5 - 35.0V (adjustable, O/P Voltage > I/P Voltage by 1.5V)
Output current: Rated current 2.5A, maximum 3A (Additional heat sink is required),
Output Power: Natural cooling 15W, Max 25W = = Input Voltage 3A efficiency%
Minimum Voltage difference: 2V
Conversion efficiency: Up to 92% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
Switching Frequency: 52KHz
Potentiometer adjustment direction: Clockwise (decrease), Anti-clockwise (increase)
Module Properties: Non-isolated step-up / Boost charge module
Standby Current: Typical 15mA (5V to 12V)
Input Reverse protection: None
Short circuit protection: None
Operating temperature: Industrial grade (-40 ℃ to +85 ℃) (ambient temperature exceeds 40℃, lower power use, or to enhance heat dissipation)
Full load temperature rise: 45 ℃
Load regulation: ± 0.5%
Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Connection mode: Welded, plus pin can be directly soldered PCB.
Output ripple: 20M Bandwidth, 0.06mV (MAX)
Measurement table, only for reference:
Input
Output
Efficiency
Input
Output
Efficiency
3.7V
5.0V
81%
12V
16V
90%
5.0V
12V
84%
12V
19V
91%
7.4V
12V
90%
12V
19V
92%
7.4V
12V
88%
12V
24V
89%
12V
16V
92%
12V
24V
88%
 

Led Hendriani

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Weirdest thing... I just went to hit this mod again and it was very hot! Not on the GTUS... but the battery and board!
I guess I need some sort of resistor between the battery and the board?
Was down to 3.75 from being a fresh battery that I took maybe 7 good hits off of when I first rubber banded the battery to the wires, maybe 2 hours ago!
 

BJ43

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Weirdest thing... I just went to hit this mod again and it was very hot! Not on the GTUS... but the battery and board!
I guess I need some sort of resistor between the battery and the board?
Was down to 3.75 from being a fresh battery that I took maybe 7 good hits off of when I first rubber banded the battery to the wires, maybe 2 hours ago!
If it is getting very hot you have too low ohms or a short. A resistor won't help that.
 

BJ43

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Ck your wiring. Here is how I do it.
IMG_1337.jpg
 

Razloz

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Jul 8, 2012
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Your multimeter should have an option to "beep" on a completed circuit. Use that to test for any current that's going where it shouldn't. I.E. it should not beep if you test from one battery lead to the other, without the fire button pressed and an atty/carto/or some type of coil connected to complete the circuit. Test all your connections in this manner. Follow the circuit from each solder point checking spots that may of shorted out, etc. I'm not too familiar with that chip, but this is just good practice. I recommend doing it before you even put batteries in any mod you build, to avoid shorting out your batteries or causing a fire. Pictures would help. :)
 
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