Drilled a bigger air hole... no real improvement?

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Bennylava

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Nov 10, 2013
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I found the draw to be too tight on my Kanger TS9, and my Kanger protank. So on 1 airhole in each one, I drilled out some metal and enlarged it. I took a 5/64" drill bit and did the job. That's 1.9mm.

However, I don't notice much of an improvement. The draw is certainly better, that's not what I'm complaining about. There is not any more vapor. You just get more air in each hit. And in the end, you end up having to hit them slower, drawing the same amount of air as you would before I enlarged the holes. If you want the air to vapor ratio to be correct, that is. This has taught me an important lesson. Those holes are exactly the right size from the factory, that they need to be. Any larger, or any smaller, and the ratio would be thrown off.

So how can I actually increase vapor production? I don't just mean in a protank or a TS9, I mean in anything. I like an airy draw, but during this I also found out that I want more vapor to go with it. Too tight of a draw just gives me a headache. Eventually. But I don't want my vape hits to just be mostly air, either. So while I have found out how to loosen the draw, how exactly do I go about getting more vapor production, to make up for more air in the hits? Again let me say that I'm asking this question in general, not specifically on how to do it with the Protank and the TS9. As I want to understand the underlying concepts so that I can do it on any atty I please.
 
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E_DeCastro

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drilling out an atty really only benefits a subohm type dripper. not that it can't be done on bcc tanks or vivi nova style tanks. but you won't notice anything huge like you would if you drilled a bigger hole in a dripping atomizer.

if you want more vapor, switch to mechanical or something that puts out high power, and a dripper or genesis style tank.
 

Ryedan

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I found the draw to be too tight on my Kanger TS9, and my Kanger protank. So on 1 airhole in each one, I drilled out some metal and enlarged it. I took a 5/64" drill bit and did the job. That's 1.9mm.

However, I don't notice much of an improvement. The draw is certainly better, that's not what I'm complaining about. There is not any more vapor. You just get more air in each hit. And in the end, you end up having to hit them slower, drawing the same amount of air as you would before I enlarged the holes. If you want the air to vapor ratio to be correct, that is. This has taught me an important lesson. Those holes are exactly the right size from the factory, that they need to be. Any larger, or any smaller, and the ratio would be thrown off.

So how can I actually increase vapor production? I don't just mean in a protank or a TS9, I mean in anything. I like an airy draw, but during this I also found out that I want more vapor to go with it. Too tight of a draw just gives me a headache. Eventually. But I don't want my vape hits to just be mostly air, either. So while I have found out how to loosen the draw, how exactly do I go about getting more vapor production, to make up for more air in the hits? Again let me say that I'm asking this question in general, not specifically on how to do it with the Protank and the TS9. As I want to understand the underlying concepts so that I can do it on any atty I please.

I've never modified that type of device Benny. I'm into RBA/RDAs. From that experience I know that air flow, power applied to the coil, coil wire surface area and wicking efficiency all need to be matched for optimum performance. If one of these is lacking it gives you a bottleneck that will hold the whole system back.

If I wanted to get more from your clearos I would look at replacing the wick and coil in them. I'm sure someone who has experience with these devices will be along and it will be interesting to see what they recommend.

Vape on :thumb:
 

Bennylava

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Nov 10, 2013
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drilling out an atty really only benefits a subohm type dripper. not that it can't be done on bcc tanks or vivi nova style tanks. but you won't notice anything huge like you would if you drilled a bigger hole in a dripping atomizer.

if you want more vapor, switch to mechanical or something that puts out high power, and a dripper or genesis style tank.

I could be wrong here, but aren't microcoils sort of replacing sub-ohm coils? It was my understanding that a microcoil can do what a sub ohm coil can do, without sacrificing safety, like a sub ohm coil does.

Perhaps I should be looking at an atty that runs two coils? After all, two coils would mean two points from which vapor is being produced, instead of just one. Given that they're both getting the same amount of power that a single coil setup would get, of course.
 
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graybuck

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Air control directly affect juice flow into the coil. If you have a thin Juice and open up the airflow with a coil that can heat the juice effectivly you will get big clouds. Thick Juice needs less airflow to pull the juice into the coil or you will get dry hits. The combination of juice flow, Air Flow, and Coil Temperature will all impact the vapor production. The more vapor you have the faster you go through juice. It can get expensive on some types of juice unless you make your own. Also a juice high in VG will produce more vapor.
 

emus

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I could be wrong here, but aren't microcoils sort of replacing sub-ohm coils? It was my understanding that a microcoil can do what a sub ohm coil can do, without sacrificing safety, like a sub ohm coil does.

Perhaps I should be looking at an atty that runs two coils? After all, two coils would mean two points from which vapor is being produced, instead of just one. Given that they're both getting the same amount of power that a single coil setup would get, of course.

I prefer single coil for vapor quality. I get decent clouds from small air hole when coil is located near air inlet and exposed to high velocity air.

My dual coil makes good clouds. Two 1/8" holes. Direct lung pull forces high volume of high velocity air across coil surfaces. Vapor production is poor w/ mouth to lung inhale; possibly because air velocity is too low.
 

VaPreis

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I've been playing with a Protank for the last week or so to see what more I can get out of it and I've come up with some nice results.

First I rebuilt a handful of protank heads with "microcoils". The coils I built are made with 30 gauge kanthal. 10 wraps on a 1/16" drill bit. These come out to 2Ω a piece, which is what I was shooting for. They are ultimately for my wife who uses a protank on her MVP2. And no matter what, if the resistance is to low, she will say she doesn't like it. ;) The 2Ω coils work well on the MVP at 8 watts for her, or as much as 10 or 11 for me on my setup. I wicked the coils with cotton yarn.

Secondly, on my protank, I drilled the 3 holes in the base to 1/16" each.

The draw is easier as I like it, but it now has the vapor to back up the draw. :)

I've been enjoying this setup on my Nemesis with a kick installed.

My coil build:

protankmicrocoil.jpgprotankcoilassembled.jpg
 

JeremyR

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Dec 29, 2012
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Exactly! I use an oddesyuss clone and it's the best rba I've ever used.

To balance more air you need more heat, with more coil area. And of course enough juice flow capability.. The protank micro coil above looks great.

Actually this threads got me wanting to try the parallel 32 gauge coils I was doing @ 18-20 wraps total in my oddy. It was too much heat before but I have since drilled my air hole out... Like you I went a little too far..
 
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