Dual-coil head and tank disaster!

[FRANKSTER]

I know based on what I am going to write that it has to be my fault. There can be no other explanation that I can come with to say other wise. I purchase a protank 2 from Hurricane vapor that comes with 2 dual-coil heads of 1.8 and 1.6 ohms. I put it together with a Phil busardo video right in front of me. I get a dry burn on one and then the other. I already stated this in another thread.

It gets alot better for me. I also purchased a aspire nautilus from viper vape that also comes with 2 coil heads. I am trying to be extremely careful with another video in front of me. I do exactly what I see done. I take the head out of the wrapper and I put it on correctly and I get a dry burn on both. I want to toss both tanks in the garbage but I already paid 60 dollars for both tanks.

It gets better. The glass tank on the Nautilus breaks just by taking it off carefully. I had 10 dual-coil heads in the mail box for the protank and I try the first one doing the same thing I did every other tome because there is only one way to put the head in the base and then in the tank...the tank is 3/4 full and another 2 dry burns. This makes six out of six dry burns with one broken tank.

The probabilities of this occurring have to be a million to one and I am being conservative...lol. I really do not want to take these heads apart and I do not think I should have to. I would not mind the draw being bad as long as I do not get a dry burn. The question is...how can this happen if I put everything together properly? I know I am making no mistakes.

I am using a Vamo 2 at 3.7 volts. I ask you what are the odds...I do not want to spend another dollar until I can figure this out. I have 8 more heads and refuse to try again until I know something. Any thoughts on this disaster?

 

[James Winkler]

How long are you letting the head soak? What kind of juice? Sorry about your nauti, mine has been really good

 

[crxess]

Bad case of not understanding the system and requirements for success.

Tank Type - Guess the PT since the other broke.
Coil type/ohms - Dual coil, 1.8ohms.
Power - Vamo2 - 3.7v - Is it set to RMS?
E-liquid Type/Blend -???? Important information
Tank preparation - any Special notes?

Fill/Prime/Vape routing?

Is this your First BCC Setup?

Normally - Open package, remove and disassemble tank - Familiarize with all parts - Wash off and Dry
Assemble Tank - inspect coil head - attach to base - wet wicks with e-liquid, a drop or 2 on each end
Fill Tank - install base - attach to (Vamo)
Set aside to allow Saturation of wicks!!!!

Pick up and do a few power off priming draws - you should taste the flavor from the e-liquid if it is wicking yet
Check Power - attempt a Vape
If Dry hit - Repeat from Primer Draws

All of your heads are still good. Dry hits do not kill leads - they kill Cartomizers.

good luck

 

[VapingTurtle]

I think maybe (i.e., I donno, but,) the VAMO has both RMS and AVG settings for the voltage. (That's two different methods of measuring a pulsed current [PWM]. For what it's worth, they are both just statistical methods of comparison to a true DC.) If you are in 'Average' (or 'Mean') mode your 3.7 setting may feel more like 5v to your coils than 3.7v.

(I gave away my VAMO and don't remember how to switch between the modes.)

 

[FRANKSTER]

Bad case of not understanding the system and requirements for success.

Tank Type - Guess the PT since the other broke.
Coil type/ohms - Dual coil, 1.8ohms.
Power - Vamo2 - 3.7v - Is it set to RMS?
E-liquid Type/Blend -???? Important information
Tank preparation - any Special notes?

Fill/Prime/Vape routing?

Is this your First BCC Setup?

Normally - Open package, remove and disassemble tank - Familiarize with all parts - Wash off and Dry
Assemble Tank - inspect coil head - attach to base - wet wicks with e-liquid, a drop or 2 on each end
Fill Tank - install base - attach to (Vamo)
Set aside to allow Saturation of wicks!!!!

Pick up and do a few power off priming draws - you should taste the flavor from the e-liquid if it is wicking yet
Check Power - attempt a Vape
If Dry hit - Repeat from Primer Draws

All of your heads are still good. Dry hits do not kill leads - they kill Cartomizers.

good luck

The vamo is set to rms and I did put a few drops on both sides of the wick. I used about 3 different juices so it cannot be the juice, but the good thing you said is that the heads are not dead so I can keep trying with one head. Also, I do not know if this means anything but both tanks did not sit flush on the vamo. Thanks for the info.

 

[ruet]

Try the following:

On your VAMO

1. Press and hold both adjustment buttons until 3.0^w appears.
2. If 3.0^v appears, release the bottons and repeat step 1.
3. Press and hold the right adjustment button until NO2 appears on the LCD screen.
4. If NO1 appears, release the button and repeat step 1.
5. Set the VAMO to 6.5^w.

With your Protank

1. Install a new coil head in the Protank base.
2. Remove the chimney from the new coil head.
3. Remove the flavor wicks from the top of the head.
4. Re-install the chiney and ensure it is firmly attached and flush against coil head.
5. Remove the rubber grommet from the chimney and replace it upside down.
6. Fill the well that surrounds the wicks with the juice you are going to be using with the tank.
7. Add a drop of juice to each wick and let them soak in.
8. Fill your tank and attach it to the base.
9. Attach your newly setup Protank to your VAMO and vape away.

Here are some notes... First, Protanks and Protank II's are single coil devices. If your heads are dual coil, you might have been sent incorrect heads. Another possibility is that the heads, tank or both are not genuine Kanger products. Second, after installing a new head, it might take as much as a full tank for the coil and wick to season properly. Third, 6.5 watts is the sweet spot for Protanks and Protank II's. I can go higher with an EVOD (same head design) but rarely can with a Protank. I surmise this is the case because of the little well that is formed between the base and coil head (as mentioned above). When the head is in an EVOD base it is exposed to the entire volume of liquid the EVOD contains. When in a Protank I or II, it is only exposed to the juice that can fill that well area. The tight space might, theoretically, lead to the building up of air bubbles as well which can negatively effect wicking. Finally, IMHO, it is never a good idea to dry burn a atomizer assembly while it contains wicking material. You run the risk of scortching the material and ruining a good tank of juice

Good luck and good vaping!

 

[FRANKSTER]

Try the following:

On your VAMO

1. Press and hold both adjustment buttons until 3.0^w appears.
2. If 3.0^v appears, release the bottons and repeat step 1.
3. Press and hold the right adjustment button until NO2 appears on the LCD screen.
4. If NO1 appears, release the button and repeat step 1.
5. Set the VAMO to 6.5^w.

With your Protank

1. Install a new coil head in the Protank base.
2. Remove the chimney from the new coil head.
3. Remove the flavor wicks from the top of the head.
4. Re-install the chiney and ensure it is firmly attached and flush against coil head.
5. Remove the rubber grommet from the chimney and replace it upside down.
6. Fill the well that surrounds the wicks with the juice you are going to be using with the tank.
7. Add a drop of juice to each wick and let them soak in.
8. Fill your tank and attach it to the base.
9. Attach your newly setup Protank to your VAMO and vape away.

Here are some notes... First, Protanks and Protank II's are single coil devices. If your heads are dual coil, you might have been sent incorrect heads. Another possibility is that the heads, tank or both are not genuine Kanger products. Second, after installing a new head, it might take as much as a full tank for the coil and wick to season properly. Third, 6.5 watts is the sweet spot for Protanks and Protank II's. I can go higher with an EVOD (same head design) but rarely can with a Protank. I surmise this is the case because of the little well that is formed between the base and coil head (as mentioned above). When the head is in an EVOD base it is exposed to the entire volume of liquid the EVOD contains. When in a Protank I or II, it is only exposed to the juice that can fill that well area. The tight space might, theoretically, lead to the building up of air bubbles as well which can negatively effect wicking. Finally, IMHO, it is never a good idea to dry burn a atomizer assembly while it contains wicking material. You run the risk of scortching the material and ruining a good tank of juice

Good luck and good vaping!

Thanks for the info...What I did because nothing else seemed to work was I got the head and placed it in a condom from a carto and let it soak for a while and it is working fine so far.

 

[Rickajho]

Is this a PT2 or a PT3? You refer to dual coil heads - which is a PT3 coil design only - yet say it's a PT2.

 

[FRANKSTER]

Is this a PT2 or a PT3? You refer to dual coil heads - which is a PT3 coil design only - yet say it's a PT2.

It's a PT2. I was referring ti the aspire dual-coils which I will use with the bcc to bdc adapter. I will have it next week and that should work much better, I hope.

 

[FRANKSTER]

I was just wondering. This is pretty much my first time with a tank system. When I look at this head going into the shaft, I am trying to figure out how the juice saturates the wick. It locks into the shaft and I do not see how this is done. I only get a normal hit when I saturate the wicks but then a dry burn every tine. It has to be that the liquid is not getting to the heads.

Can someone explain what is happening with this?

 

[donnah]

the evod and the protank heads work on the same principle
A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube

A PBusardo Review - ProTank II, Mini ProTank, Davide, & a Contest - YouTube

 

[CloudZ]

"Dry burning" is a method for cleaning silica wicks. What you are getting are "dry hits" or "burnt hits". Dry burning can actually restore a head that has burnt juice in it. You definitely need to make sure they are fully saturated before using them and potentially consider removing flavor wicks if the problem persists. This is especially the case if your juice is high VG.

 

[crxess]

You run the risk of scortching the material and ruining a good tank of juice

Cotton material, YES

Silica - No Way a PT coil can never get hot enough to do any kind of damage to a Silica Wick.
Over Dry burning can cause the coil legs to over heat and scorch the center pin grommet. Different animal and will not contaminate e-liquid as the off taste is merely coming up through the center pipe.

*Unless using 100% VG e-liquids, never attempt removing 2 flavor wicks at once. This could lead to heavy flooding. One step at a time is prudent. Even removing a portion of one flavor wick can make a huge difference on any given head. individual Heads can react differently to wicking.

 

[K_Tech]

I was just wondering. This is pretty much my first time with a tank system. When I look at this head going into the shaft, I am trying to figure out how the juice saturates the wick. It locks into the shaft and I do not see how this is done. I only get a normal hit when I saturate the wicks but then a dry burn every tine. It has to be that the liquid is not getting to the heads.

Can someone explain what is happening with this?

On the Aspire Nautilus heads, you'll see 4 (I think) very small holes around the circumference of the head. Inside that can is a sleeve of wicking material that gets wetted by the eliquid and then, in turn, wicks the eliquid to the coils.

One thing to try if you're getting dry hits is to take a few (or several) "dry pulls" on the tank (basically just like taking a vape without hitting the fire button). This helps suck eliquid in to the coil area.

 

[FRANKSTER]

the evod and the protank heads work on the same principle
A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube

A PBusardo Review - ProTank II, Mini ProTank, Davide, & a Contest - YouTube

Thank you for the video. I have seen this video 10 times and I have done exactly like he is doing and I am getting a dry burn.

 

[FRANKSTER]

On the Aspire Nautilus heads, you'll see 4 (I think) very small holes around the circumference of the head. Inside that can is a sleeve of wicking material that gets wetted by the eliquid and then, in turn, wicks the eliquid to the coils.

One thing to try if you're getting dry hits is to take a few (or several) "dry pulls" on the tank (basically just like taking a vape without hitting the fire button). This helps suck eliquid in to the coil area.

Thanks for the info but I am talking about the single coil head for the protank 2...I am waiting for the adapter so I can use the dual coils that you are referring to.

 

[savagemann]

After replacing the heads, you gotta let those suckers sit for a while.
Also, do several primer pulls.
You will see some bubbles rise from the bottom of the tank.
This is an indicator that juice is getting to the wicks.
When you're done doing that, let em sit for another 10 minutes.
Then vape away.

 

[K_Tech]

Thanks for the info but I am talking about the single coil head for the protank 2...I am waiting for the adapter so I can use the dual coils that you are referring to.

lol, I actually answered for Protank first, but then deleted it because I thought you meant the Aspire Nautilus heads...

Okay, if you look at the Protank coil head, just under where that little silicone o-ring is, you'll see a bit of white fluff sticking out from the coil "cup" (or whatever they call it).

That's the part of the wick that's in contact with the eliquid in the tank.

 

[FRANKSTER]

lol, I actually answered for Protank first, but then deleted it because I thought you meant the Aspire Nautilus heads...

Okay, if you look at the Protank coil head, just under where that little silicone o-ring is, you'll see a bit of white fluff sticking out from the coil "cup" (or whatever they call it).

That's the part of the wick that's in contact with the eliquid in the tank.

View attachment 294766

Thanks, I removed the rubber head and then removed a wick and it performed better, but still not as I would like. It seems like you have to continuously give it primer puffs so it will not give out that burn flavor. I do not think that should be. Maybe I will have better luck when my adapter comes and I can use dcoils on the protank 2. The Nautilus is another story...The glass broke on me the second time I screwed it on so I have to buy a new one for 9 dollars.

Thanks for the help.

 

[FRANKSTER]

I just purchased and received a aspire vivi nova-s bdc. I purchased a aspire viva nova bdc. It appears there is a difference. The one I received just does not do anything. I used it on 3 pvs and it just does not work. It appears the shaft is to narrow to attach to the head. The head is fine because I used it on a protank 2 with the adapter for the bdc coils.

Does anyone know what I have? It's called the vivi nova s bdc.