I'm pretty sure it's possible so long as each coil is high enough ohms or am I wrong? Has anyone got any dual coils to work?
Dual coils on provari doable?
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Yes, it's doable as long as you don't try to use too high of a voltage. I seem to recall Grimm Green reviewing the Provari and trying to use a LR dual coil at 6 volts, which the Provari will refuse to fire. 
I don't know about dual coil RBAs. But I use dual coil cartos, and I prefer them. Remember, a dual coil carto that ohms at 2, is really two 4ohm coils. 5v runs each coil at mid 6 watts.
Preloader, I don't think you are even close to being out of your league!!!
I double checked your calculations and without rounding it is 6.25 watts per coil or 12.5 watts total and the total current would be 2.5 Amps. If my memory serves me both the wattage and current are within ProVari's specs by a reasonably amount.
The only thing we don't know is what resistance coils Dominick is using or trying to use???
Preloader, Just out of curiosity what kind of battery life to you get running at 12 watts?
Baditude,
I think Mr. Green was Vaping something other than nicotine in this video. He couldn't press the buttons and I don't know what he normally runs his 1.5 Ohm cart on but at 6 Volts that would be 24 Watts. That is a tad bit over the limit for a ProVari and most other brands of APVs.
I think Mr. Green was Vaping something other than nicotine in this video. He couldn't press the buttons and I don't know what he normally runs his 1.5 Ohm cart on but at 6 Volts that would be 24 Watts. That is a tad bit over the limit for a ProVari and most other brands of APVs.
I ran a 1.0 ohm dual-coil in my Hercules for 7 weeks with one of my V2.5's.. I had no issues or errors running @ 3.8v.. 
(3.8 amps) Actually, I was able to run both @ 4.0 amps with no errors.. It surprised me that they did, but 4.0v was too hot of a vape, and I didn't want to push them that much long-term.
ProVape states:
http://www.provape.com/v/images/ProVariV1vsV2.pdf
(3.8 amps) Actually, I was able to run both @ 4.0 amps with no errors.. It surprised me that they did, but 4.0v was too hot of a vape, and I didn't want to push them that much long-term. ProVape states:
http://www.provape.com/v/images/ProVariV1vsV2.pdf
Technonut,
Wow - @4 volts that is 16 watts. I am surprised they didn't error out. You are probable very kind to your units so they put out a little extra for you. But that is still MUCH more reasonable than Mr. Green's Video trying to run it at 24 watts. I just can't imagine what he was thinking.
Actually I didn't like the Video because he left the impression that the ProVari was a little wacky when IMHO he was the wacky one and the ProVari was doing exactly what the specs say it should. I have seen some of this other Vids and they are OK but not real technical.
Wow - @4 volts that is 16 watts. I am surprised they didn't error out. You are probable very kind to your units so they put out a little extra for you.
But that is still MUCH more reasonable than Mr. Green's Video trying to run it at 24 watts. I just can't imagine what he was thinking.Actually I didn't like the Video because he left the impression that the ProVari was a little wacky when IMHO he was the wacky one and the ProVari was doing exactly what the specs say it should. I have seen some of this other Vids and they are OK but not real technical.
Technonut,
Wow - @4 volts that is 16 watts. I am surprised they didn't error out. You are probable very kind to your units so they put out a little extra for you.
Actually I didn't like the Video because he left the impression that the ProVari was a little wacky when IMHO he was the wacky one and the ProVari was doing exactly what the specs say it should. I have seen some of this other Vids and they are OK but not real technical.
I had a V1 for way over a year and a half.. Then, I traded a nice mech mod for a V2.5. When I found the V2.5 could run the 1.0 ohm dual-coil @ 3.8v, this was more consistent than my mechs, which would immediately drop to 3.8-3.75v on a fresh AW IMR under load. (then continue dropping of course) It impressed me enough to purchase another V2.5 on the classies.
I have a couple of pics of my load tester showing the 4.0v output voltage to the Hercules @ 1.0 ohm.. Doesn't really prove anything, but I have no reason to BS anyone, and I know they vaped well with no errors. I thought the 3.8v @ 1.0 ohm on the ProVari was excellent enough for consistent, regulated voltage until the battery ran out as far as that goes. EDIT: Currently, I am running a 1.5 ohm single-coil @ a whopping 3.0v..
The particular tobacco juice I'm using now tastes the best there, and throws out plenty of vapor with the XC-116 ceramic fiber wick I use. Needless to say, the battery life is MUCH improved compared to the dual-coil 1.0 ohm @ 3.8v build. EDIT: Hmmmm.. Interesting.. I seem to be limited to overall wattage, not amperage on the ProVari's. The amp limit is 3.5 as stated by ProVape, with typical unit output being higher. As you pointed out, the 4.0v I was able to run with the 1.0 ohm dual-coil was 16 watts. I just tried to see how high I could go with the 1.5 ohm single-coil I'm running now.
I maxed-out @ 4.9v before errors. That would be a little over 3.2 amps. Below the rated 3.5 amps. The wattage however, is still the same 16 watts both units maxed-out at with the 1.0 ohm dual-coil build. 5.2v would have been below the 3.5 amp rating, but 18 watts.
Regardless of the 3.5 amp rating, ProVape limits the maximum wattage to 14.5 with the same "typical unit output being higher" applying. So, I'm getting 1.5 watts more than rated, and 1/2 an amp more than the 3.5 when running the 1.0 ohm dual-coil @ 4.0v..
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I'm primarily using 18650 batteries, so I'm getting a full day. I tend to swap batteries early, when the button starts blinking, even though CB shows 3.6V.
I haven't began wrapping my own coils, but I have yet to hear about anyone wrapping one at 3Ω or higher.
Technonut,
BS - No way on this end. I believe your results completely besides you backed up everything you said with numbers.
I am only on my first cup of coffee so don't take what I am saying as Gospel but it does look like the output you achieved are within 10% of the upper speck limits. Sounds to me very reasonable but you should start buying Lotto Tickets because it also looks like you have two very high performing units within a 10% range - excellent.
I do have a question, Why such low resistance coils? I have seen lots of folks that run very low Ohm coils but I don't understand why folks insist on such low resistance. It seems to me the lower the resistance the harder the batteries have to work and the harder they have to work the lower the battery usage time and the faster the batteries life expectancy will be reduced.
Oh - heck it is too early in the morning for all this brain effort. I going for another cup of coffee.
BS - No way on this end. I believe your results completely besides you backed up everything you said with numbers.
I am only on my first cup of coffee so don't take what I am saying as Gospel but it does look like the output you achieved are within 10% of the upper speck limits. Sounds to me very reasonable but you should start buying Lotto Tickets because it also looks like you have two very high performing units within a 10% range - excellent.
I do have a question, Why such low resistance coils? I have seen lots of folks that run very low Ohm coils but I don't understand why folks insist on such low resistance. It seems to me the lower the resistance the harder the batteries have to work and the harder they have to work the lower the battery usage time and the faster the batteries life expectancy will be reduced.
Oh - heck it is too early in the morning for all this brain effort. I going for another cup of coffee.
Preloader, I also change Bats when they start to blink. I have taken a few to ProVari to cut-off just to see what level that would happen at.
I should have my ZAP this Friday and actually I was thinking of going to 3 Ohms only because ProVape mentions that value and I am curious to see how it performs at that resistance.
However like you I will run it with whatever it comes with at first. Which brings up the question what is the resistance of the factory supplied ZAP?
Mine came with a 4 wrap coil @ 2.1Ω. I'm anxious to do my first coil, but it's vaping so great..... why fix it?
My 50/50 juices wick a little slow though, so I may do it just so I can try a SS mesh wick, even though I believe Zen mentioned that it won't make much difference in wicking IIRC.
My 50/50 juices wick a little slow though, so I may do it just so I can try a SS mesh wick, even though I believe Zen mentioned that it won't make much difference in wicking IIRC.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. I very much like that concept but also have the hardest time following that rule.
2.1 Ohms is something I can live with that's for sure.
On the slow wicking if you are talking about the Vid on the ProVape site I do remember him saying something about the wicking action should be the same and only the TH would be effected. Hmmm... guess he knows what he is talking about. I got the feeling he is the creator of the ZAP so he should know what he is taking about (maybe).
I didn't order any mesh, why I don't know because I kept telling my self there is no way the Ceramic can wick as well as the mesh. I do tend to stay away from the higher PV juices because my Pro Thanks seem to plug up faster. But now with the soon to arrive ZAP I feel like I should be able to get in and clean the wick/coil assembly with out too much trouble. If I have the same slow wicking as your I will wait till you tell me the Mesh fixed the problem. So consider yourself on the spot.
Technonut,
BS - No way on this end. I believe your results completely besides you backed up everything you said with numbers.
I am only on my first cup of coffee so don't take what I am saying as Gospel but it does look like the output you achieved are within 10% of the upper speck limits. Sounds to me very reasonable but you should start buying Lotto Tickets because it also looks like you have two very high performing units within a 10% range - excellent.
I do have a question, Why such low resistance coils? I have seen lots of folks that run very low Ohm coils but I don't understand why folks insist on such low resistance. It seems to me the lower the resistance the harder the batteries have to work and the harder they have to work the lower the battery usage time and the faster the batteries life expectancy will be reduced.
Oh - heck it is too early in the morning for all this brain effort. I going for another cup of coffee.
Well... I was running primarily mech mods before, and kind of kept my old ProVari V1 off to the side for a long time. For a couple of years, I usually didn't like any atty or carto below 2.0 ohms, and preferred 2.5 and up. Then, rebuildables came along... There's more wicking material to hold juice, can be tank-fed, and I started building lower resistance coils for better vapor, and flavor because the attys were suited for it. Despite my sub-ohm vaping sticky, I personally do not sub-ohm. The lowest I have or will go is 1.0 ohm. I started that thread out of concern for folks safety due to this style of vaping being popular, and potentially dangerous.
I basically was running the 1.0 ohm dual-coil because the Hercules' (Ithaka's) design, and ceramic cup produced a rich, flavorful vape. Not at all too hot @ 3.8v. I just ran it on the V2.5 for the regulated voltage instead of dropping off like in my mechs. As for the 1.5 ohm I'm running now, I have around 75 feet of AWG 30 Kanthal left, and that's about how many wraps worth I can get around my preferred wicking material while being directly over the air-tube in the rebuildables I have at the moment.
I am running it at only 3.0v, and the battery life is fantastic.Since I have 2 ProVari V2.5's now, my mechs are not getting used as much these days. I have a rebuildable carto coming, and I plan on building 2.5-2.8 ohm coils for it.
I just need to pick up a couple of spools of wire in appropriate gauges. I will also use the new wire to make coils in the same ohm range for my other rebuildables. It is less taxing on batteries, and better suited for the ProVari's.
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Lol yeah sorry of I came off rude to Holman! Not my intent
And to be honest I was asking you guys if you had found something that had worked. I had tried one dual coil on my trident, 10 wraps each coil, each one homes out at 1.5 If my memory serves me correct, but didn't work when combined. So my question was if I raised the ohms of each coil to, sayyy 3ohms it should work right?
I can get a .8 ohm coil to fire on the Provari. The P will fire a tad over 15.34 watts, so a .8 ohm you can go as high as 3.5 volts or 15.31 watts, jump up to 3.6 volts E2, won't do 16.2 watts.
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Yes, 2 3.0 ohm coils would work...
Kanthal A-1 Wire Specs: (Ohms Per Inch)
•28 AWG- 0.439 Ohms/in, 0.0508 Diameter (in.)
•30 AWG- 0.696 Ohms/in, 0.0100 Diameter (in.)
•32 AWG- 1.091 Ohms/in, 0.0080 Diameter (in.)
•33 AWG- 1.383 Ohms/in, 0.0071 Diameter (in.)
•34 AWG- 1.758 Ohms/in, 0.0063 Diameter (in.)
Well... I was running primarily mech mods before, and kind of kept my old ProVari V1 off to the side for a long time. For a couple of years, I usually didn't like any atty or carto below 2.0 ohms, and preferred 2.5 and up. Then, rebuildables came along... There's more wicking material to hold juice, can be tank-fed, and I started building lower resistance coils for better vapor, and flavor because the attys were suited for it. Despite my sub-ohm vaping sticky, I personally do not sub-ohm. The lowest I have or will go is 1.0 ohm. I started that thread out of concern for folks safety due to this style of vaping being popular, and potentially dangerous.
I basically was running the 1.0 ohm dual-coil because the Hercules' (Ithaka's) design, and ceramic cup produced a rich, flavorful vape. Not at all too hot @ 3.8v. I just ran it on the V2.5 for the regulated voltage instead of dropping off like in my mechs. As for the 1.5 ohm I'm running now, I have around 75 feet of AWG 30 Kanthal left, and that's about how many wraps worth I can get around my preferred wicking material while being directly over the air-tube in the rebuildables I have at the moment.
Since I have 2 ProVari V2.5's now, my mechs are not getting used as much these days. I have a rebuildable carto coming, and I plan on building 2.5-2.8 ohm coils for it.
Technonut,
You have so much more experience than I do you have almost lost me with all the variations you have experienced from Mechs to a wide range of coil resistance.
Running at 3.0 Volts I'll bet your battery life is excellent. I run from 3.8 to 4.0 volts on my Pro Tank Using 2.5 Ohm coils. I tend to walk it up to 4.0 Volts when the wicks start to slow down. With a new 2.5 Ohm coil and 3.8 volts I can get about a day and a half out of an 18650 depending on my vaping style. Sometime I get on a chain vaping kick and that pulls the batteries down fairly fast.
This has nothing to do with the hardware but I find that if I use higher nicotine levels my body tends to self regulate my vaping. If I am using 32 mg juice (I know that sounds high) I don't sit there and just pull on my mo-chine continuously like I do with lower nic levels. This is a resent adaptation. When I first started vaping I was actually scared of the higher nicotine levels thinking I would overdose and get myself in trouble. But as I said that fear has gone away once I discovered the self regulating quality. Also with the higher nic levels I get better battery life because I don't sit there and suck on it like it was a chocolate milkshake. Talk about getting off topic - Ugh! But I have never been know to staying focus on any one thing for more than two or three post.
PS - At the moment I have no particular interest in limiting Nicotine intake. I am quite content to be analog free. And hear is the kick in the head every time I go to buy more e-juice when I see I can get hi-nic volumes for the same price as the lo-nic stuff the rational is well why not go for the potent stuff, puff less and save money. What do they say "Win, Win". I know, the ramblings of a deranged mind
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