Dvarw MTL RTA & MTL FL (clones)
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FWIW, I’ve found that the metal airflow control screws in my KMv3 tanks (clones) seem to interfere with temperature control operation. Taking them out seemed to cure the pulsing problems I was having. Luckily, I liked The airflow wide open anyway.
Yeah I agree. I used nyloc on mine and it seemed to hold things steady.
What is “nyloc”, how do you use it and where do you get it?
I want to try a KF Lite clone, but they all seem to use a metal airflow screw which, if removed, would leave a hole for condensation and eliquid to flow down the hollow 510 pin and into the mod’s 510 connection.
I guess I could try to wrap a small width of Teflon tape around the airflow screw...but that would be pretty intricate work for me.
Nylon is liquid nylon, sold in a tube (also called threadlock).
You put it,on the threads,of the screw and it dries to lock the screw.
It's not forever locked but holds firmly and stops the screw from moving.
Ahh - that’s the stuff some people were using on the first Eleaf Lemo to keep the airflow control nut from moving.
Thanks.
It's great stuff. No flavour issues as it dries to be heat tolerant. Usually used to keep bolts firm in moving machinery.
Find it in two strengths on Amazon or eBay. Red is a medium lock and blue a firm lock. Both are fine but you may want to use red if you adjust the airflow screw with a little blue screwdriver.
The genuine spare af screw for the kayfun mini v3 often has the same issue due to the tolerance differences. Yes it would be better to buy a genuine kf v3 (I've one myself) but not everyone can afford one. That said with the prime and lite (which I'm very much enjoying currently, so hassle free) being popular you can pick up a second hand genuine kf mini v3 for a very reasonable price currently.
Have you tried your SXK KF Lite in temp control? Any issues?
I kinda wish they would open the classified up again to new applicants again.
Using my genuine KFl in TC, I don't see any problem to do the same with your SXK
Would you describe it as a tight mtl? I have the Dvarw DL & I love it.
Just guessing, but it seemed to make my SS 316L build in a KMv3 unstable. Removing the screw seemed to help with the pulsing behavior.
Hm, maybe is your KMV3, I did not have such a thing with mine KMV 3 or Kf 5 SXK mini, not the Prime
I've a genuine kfl and ask clone here and both have been set up with nife wire for rd and both are on lostvape corals and I'm getting zero difference in performances.
A slight variation in ohms (I mean .02) but that's likely down to the coil legs.
Heat and oomph seem identical.
I've a black one on route from an UN named manufacturer (possibly ultron), well see how it performs and I will put some pics and results up.
A slight variation in ohms (I mean .02) but that's likely down to the coil legs.
Heat and oomph seem identical.
I've a black one on route from an UN named manufacturer (possibly ultron), well see how it performs and I will put some pics and results up.
If anyone has the sxk kfl (2019). you get a spare steel airflow grub screw. It's worth putting that in as well once you've set your airflow as there's room without it standing proud of the 510 ring and it securely holds the first grub screw in position to prevent a change airflow. Also makes a solid contact.
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