You don't really want the wicking sticking out of the holes because when you have the metal tank section part screwed on you can end up putting pressure on the wick and stifling them.
What you are doing with the cotton is creating a cushion or embankment behind the juice flow holes to keep any juice running into the air hole. As long as those holes are covered when you look at the chamber wicking holes from the other side you will not have issues. Packing the cotton down hard also creates problems, you want it light and fluffy and only press it down with a light touch.
Here's a diagram explaining how it works.
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The Dvarw has large oval holes to be able to cope with high VG juices. The first version had small holes and tended to really be meant for 50/50 juice. High VG is doable but the oval ones wick much better. And you can't really compare a KFL V2+ with a Dvarw. My KFL V2+ can cope with maybe two tanks worth of 70VG juice before it starts to clog. But if you can wick a KFL V2+ then you can most definitely wick a Dvarw.
The larger holes also mean you tend to get a far more saturated vape.
As another example take a look at the wicking on my Taifun GT III. Same principle applies but in the case of the GT III it has two wicking holes on each side.
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So if you look carefully you can see the cotton is arched down from the coil and sits nice and fluffy behind the juice holes. Exact same thing with the Dvarw, only difference is the Dvarw has one wicking hole on each side, a chamber cap and no juice flow control
