eBay batteries...

[Hans Wermhat]

So... I traded a buddy of mine a nautilus for an Atlantis V1, and he threw in a cheap AR clone. I tried to tell him I didn't want the mod, but he was just gonna throw it in the trash, so I took it. Check out the batteries that came with it...

I'm not entirely sure, but I think that's Chinese for "round-eye go BOOM!" Lol! Has anybody ever seen these before? I'm curious what the CDR is. I'm not keen on using them, but I don't want to put my VTC4's in the mod. The copper plate on the switch is almost 18mm and in order to get the thing to fire you have to trim the shrink wrap back flush with the edge of the battery. I'm looking for a cheap switch replacement but I'm thinking the whole thing will end up as a paperweight anyway, so I don't wanna drop much cash on it. It is a crappy mod and it hits like a girl, but it's decent for my lil DIY tester RDA.

 

[stevegmu]

6000 mAh, sounds like a wonderful battery. Take some pictures of the results if you use the mod and those batteries, especially after trimming off the protective wrap.

 

[MattyTny]

I would get rid of those batteries, they're affordable enough to get new ones.

What's the condition of the mechanical? If it's wonky then just shelve it. Sounds like a recipe for disaster if you use the batteries in it.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

yeah, I wouldn't even put those into a flashlight

 

[Baditude]

With that high of a mah rating, they are probably ICR chemistry. Only good for a flashlight, not for a mod.

Generic Batteries. Not recommended. No name or off brand printed on the wrapper. Seen at FastTech, Amazon & EBay at cheap prices or thrown in for free in a kit when you purchase a mod from China. These are unknown batteries of unknown quality by an unknown manufacturer, and not worth the risk using in your mod. Never assume because they were included with your mod that they are safe or the correct battery to use. If uncertain about the quality or type of a battery, don't buy or use it.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or ICR?

 

[Hans Wermhat]

Yeah, @Baditude, that's kinda what I was thinking. I'm not a fan of button tops anyway. Was just hoping someone had seen them and knew what they were.

What's the condition of the mechanical?

Aside from being a cheap clone, it's not a COMPLETE piece of . When they painted it, they painted ALL the threads. I was thinking it could be stripped down and made usable. Would be great for outdoor use. It's something I wouldn't miss if it fell off the boat into the lake. But the switch has to go. That contact on the switch is just a hair wider than the gap in the shrinkwrap on the neg end of a battery, and the travel on it is a lil wonky. It doesn't hit flush. If I can't find a cheap replacement for it, the mech will be a paperweight for sure.

 

[zoiDman]

These are my Favorites.

Authentic AW IMR 18350 3 7V Battery for Tank Mod USA Seller | eBay

Looks 100% Authentic to me. Even though they have No AW Hologram Sticker. And seeing that AW doesn't sell Any Flat Top 18350's

But Aside from that, they look Great.

 

[stevegmu]

Yeah, @Baditude, that's kinda what I was thinking. I'm not a fan of button tops anyway. Was just hoping someone had seen them and knew what they were.

Aside from being a cheap clone, it's not a COMPLETE piece of . When they painted it, they painted ALL the threads. I was thinking it could be stripped down and made usable. Would be great for outdoor use. It's something I wouldn't miss if it fell off the boat into the lake. But the switch has to go. That contact on the switch is just a hair wider than the gap in the shrinkwrap on the neg end of a battery, and the travel on it is a lil wonky. It doesn't hit flush. If I can't find a cheap replacement for it, the mech will be a paperweight for sure.

There's some design flaw in one of the AR 'clones' I forget exactly what it was, but it caused one to vent a while ago...

 

[DavidOck]

In general, the higher the mAh rating, the lower the CDR...

MAY be ok in, say, an LED flashlight. A cheap one

 

[Hans Wermhat]

Just about all of my attys are clones, but I don't buy cloned mods. This one was free though, so I'm just trying to figure out if it's worth a few bucks to make it usable. As far as batteries, I have always used VTC4's exclusively. I did my research before I got my first mech and decided they had the best balance of CDR and mAh.

 

[Thrasher]

In general, the higher the mAh rating, the lower the CDR...

MAY be ok in, say, an LED flashlight. A cheap one

I dont care if the cdr is 1/2 an amp, your not getting 6k out of a 18650. The best panasonic can even do is 3400mah. And thats a 5 amp.

 

[jbok]

So... I traded a buddy of mine a Nautilus for an Atlantis V1, and he threw in a cheap AR clone. I tried to tell him I didn't want the mod, but he was just gonna throw it in the trash, so I took it. Check out the batteries that came with it...
View attachment 483989
View attachment 483990
I'm not entirely sure, but I think that's Chinese for "round-eye go BOOM!" Lol! Has anybody ever seen these before? I'm curious what the CDR is. I'm not keen on using them, but I don't want to put my VTC4's in the mod. The copper plate on the switch is almost 18mm and in order to get the thing to fire you have to trim the shrink wrap back flush with the edge of the battery. I'm looking for a cheap switch replacement but I'm thinking the whole thing will end up as a paperweight anyway, so I don't wanna drop much cash on it. It is a crappy mod and it hits like a girl, but it's decent for my lil DIY tester RDA.

What about grinding down the 18mm to a smaller diameter so that it hits the battery without cutting the shrink wrap?


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[WillyZee]

So... I traded a buddy of mine

I think your buddy might be trying to kill you

 

[Hans Wermhat]

@jbok
Not feasible. The switch kinda "floats" in the bottom cap. Grinding it down would effect its travel. It's already wobbly.

 

[jbok]

Not feasible. The switch kinda "floats" in the bottom cap. Grinding it down would effect its travel. It's already wobbly.

I don't mean the thickness, I mean the the diameter so that it will touch the bottom of the battery. You said the it was too large and would make contact with the wrap first and not the negative end correct?


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[Hans Wermhat]

Yeah... The contact on the switch is a thick, flat plate, but it sits atop a thin shaft that screws into the button on the bottom. It is the same diameter as the housing it slides back and forth in. If I grind it down, it will wobble and rattle in the switch housing. There's no saving the switch. It's worthless. Problem is the whole switch assembly is an odd diameter. Finding a replacement is going to be a PITA.

 

[jbok]

Ahh ok I got it. What about soldering a smaller diameter copper plate to the switch?


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[Hans Wermhat]

Possible... but the switch is crap to begin with. I'd really rather replace it completely.

 

[Baditude]

These are my Favorites.

Authentic AW IMR 18350 3 7V Battery for Tank Mod USA Seller | eBay

Looks 100% Authentic to me. Even though they have No AW Hologram Sticker. And seeing that AW doesn't sell Any Flat Top 18350's

But Aside from that, they look Great.

Just to clarify to anyone who missed the sarcasm (I hope), these are fake AW batteries.

 

[zoiDman]

Just to clarify to anyone who missed the sarcasm (I hope), these are fake AW batteries.

They Most Definitely are el-Fake-O's.

And Unfortunately, Many Other Batteries on e-Bay are also.