Ego style chargers

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Floah

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Feb 17, 2019
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Hello, vape noob here lol.
Just a quick question, idk if this is in the right spot, but anyway..

I have two ego style batteries, one is a "xhale" brand and the other is an ego-t (though I'm pretty sure it's a knock off). The xhale battery came with a xhale branded charger, the ego-t with a non branded charger (wasn't a blister kit or whatever, not sure if that'd matter). They both have the same input and output, but if I put the xhale battery (green light on the xhale branded charger) on the charger that came with the ego-t, it goes red and continues to charge. I guess the obvious answer would be use the charger that came with each battery, but aren't these things supposed to be interchangeable? Could someone explain what's going on here? Different circuitry/ voltage cut-offs or something I guess? Or maybe the xhale charger is undercharging for some reason?
 
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tearose50

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It may be best to use the chargers that came with the gear, though for the most part the chargers are interchangeable. Some older ones didn't charge as quickly and those would be fine for any model. The faster charging ones are best for the batteries that were made for faster charging. If both yours have same input and output, I also would assume they would work the same.

However, I haven't used an ego in quite awhile and am not up to date with current models.
 

bombastinator

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I don’t envy you this problem. I vaguely remember this particular nightmare.

Haven’t used one of these in a long time, but iirc there were a couple of different types, quality, and power levels of both batteries and chargers. Which kind they were was never marked. They also tended to accumulate grime on their connectors and needed to be kept clean or they would stop working correctly. Sometimes they would just stop working period.

It could be any of the reasons described. It could also be that the no-name one is happy to overcharge a battery. Having to guess whether I had a bad battery or a bad charger was annoying. I was mighty glad to stop having to use them.

Iirc half the circuitry is in the charger and half is in the battery, and there were several versions of both. It was sort of an ad hoc random standard that never really was one to begin with.

The safest thing to do is probably only charge a given battery with the charger it came with. If you can even do that. Frequently batteries came without chargers and you had to use whatever you had and just hope for the best that you wouldn’t destroy one or the other by connecting them.
 
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bombastinator

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Thanks for the replies, idk if it matters but I think they are diffferent mAh, I'm guessing the different batteries being separate brands each have a different output. I spose I could test with a multimeter or something.
That wouldn’t surprise me at all. There may be other differences as well. Those EGO batteries, if you take them apart, are a unvented canister, an ego connector head, a LiPo bag battery, some very thin wiring, a small pcb with a very flimsy switch, and sometimes a LED as well, though not always. In my rummagings I came across at least two pcbs which looked entirely different from each other. Others may have had less obvious differences.
I also took apart some chargers but I don’t remember much about those.

I do remember there were people here who did quite deep dives into the circuitry and could explain how to do repairs on them. Whether that info or those members is/are still around on this site, I don’t know. This place is a labyrinth.
 

Floah

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I moved quickly to the Joyetech brand with the usb charger. Best way prior was to plug in the charger first then slowly screw the ego battery in. If you know that it definitely needs a charge stop screwing it in when it displays the red light.
Yah supposedly it's an ego-t, but it doesn't have their logo on it or the charger (why I'm guessing it's a knockoff). Another thing that leads me to believe it's not genuine is the first one I bought from the shop was defective lol and I got it exchanged. He pulled the battery out and I guess he claimed they got scammed on their kits so he gave me a non kit (the battery was a smaller mAh than the actual casing, maybe good I got a defective one). I Should've probably just asked for a refund. The stupid thing about this whole ordeal was the guy sold me (overpriced) 70/30 vg/pg juice pretty sure meant for RDAs which being a newbie I didn't even think twice. Luckily I bought some other stuff with higher pg than vg. A few drops mixed in, it wicks better.
 

r77r7r

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    Yah supposedly it's an ego-t, but it doesn't have their logo on it or the charger (why I'm guessing it's a knockoff). Another thing that leads me to believe it's not genuine is the first one I bought from the shop was defective lol and I got it exchanged. He pulled the battery out and I guess he claimed they got scammed on their kits so he gave me a non kit (the battery was a smaller mAh than the actual casing, maybe good I got a defective one). I Should've probably just asked for a refund. The stupid thing about this whole ordeal was the guy sold me (overpriced) 70/30 vg/pg juice pretty sure meant for RDAs which being a newbie I didn't even think twice. Luckily I bought some other stuff with higher pg than vg. A few drops mixed in, it wicks better.
    If you are only wanting the size of the ego, I think I would go with a pod nowadays. Welcome to the forums!
     

    bombastinator

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    Yah supposedly it's an ego-t, but it doesn't have their logo on it or the charger (why I'm guessing it's a knockoff). Another thing that leads me to believe it's not genuine is the first one I bought from the shop was defective lol and I got it exchanged. He pulled the battery out and I guess he claimed they got scammed on their kits so he gave me a non kit (the battery was a smaller mAh than the actual casing, maybe good I got a defective one). I Should've probably just asked for a refund. The stupid thing about this whole ordeal was the guy sold me (overpriced) 70/30 vg/pg juice pretty sure meant for RDAs which being a newbie I didn't even think twice. Luckily I bought some other stuff with higher pg than vg. A few drops mixed in, it wicks better.
    I’ve vaped 100% VG in old CE4 cartos on ego batteries and gotten away with it. Juice thickness requirements are very individual to a particular atty. many of them don’t care at all what you use and will just work. There’s always a few drops of distilled water to thin out something that’s too thick for your atty. thinning a juice can’t be taken back though.
     

    bombastinator

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    If you are only wanting the size of the ego, I think I would go with a pod nowadays. Welcome to the forums!
    I provisionally agree. Egos kind of still have their place though in that because they’re so old and out of patent they’re ridiculously cheap. Some pods are actually a weaker vape than the ego with an old ceramic cup and bridge atomizer coil.
     

    Floah

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    If you are only wanting the size of the ego, I think I would go with a pod nowadays. Welcome to the forums!
    Was actually recommended a pod system and nic salts (I'm a pretty light smoker for the most part), but I decided to just go with the ego first. Not really disappointed with my decision, I don't really care about the nicotine "rush", I find I'm pretty satisfied with just the normal juice.
     

    Floah

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    I’ve vaped 100% VG in old CE4 cartos on ego batteries and gotten away with it. Juice thickness requirements are very individual to a particular atty. many of them don’t care at all what you use and will just work. There’s always a few drops of distilled water to thin out something that’s too thick for your atty. thinning a juice can’t be taken back though.
    Yeah actually the 70/30 wicks ok, I think my first couple fills were overfilled causing it to flood and diminishing the vapor.
     
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    Katya

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    Could someone explain what's going on here? Different circuitry/ voltage cut-offs or something I guess? Or maybe the xhale charger is undercharging for some reason?

    Hi Floah and welcome. I'm familiar with all kinds of eGo-class batteries, set voltage and vv, but I have never heard of the xhale brand. And if they are knockoffs, there's really no telling what's going on. I suggest that you use the charger that came with each battery just to be safe. What are the specs (input, output, etc.) listed on each charger cable? Are they the same? My old Joyetech rapid chargers were: Input: 5V , Output: 4.2V - 420mAh. What's the capacity of your batteries? For example, a 420 mAh charger should charge a 900 mAh battery in a little over two hours; a 1300 mAh battery in about 3 hours.

    How do you charge your eGos? I always recommend using an AC wall adapter (AKA wall wart)--just in case--5 volt, 1A output, especially when using batteries of questionable provenance.
     

    Floah

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    Hi Floah and welcome. I'm familiar with all kinds of eGo-class batteries, set voltage and vv, but I have never heard of the xhale brand. And if they are knockoffs, there's really no telling what's going on. I suggest that you use the charger that came with each battery just to be safe. What are the specs (input, output, etc.) listed on each charger cable? Are they the same? My old Joyetech rapid chargers were: Input: 5V , Output: 4.2V - 420mAh. What's the capacity of your batteries? For example, a 420 mAh charger should charge a 900 mAh battery in a little over two hours; a 1300 mAh battery in about 3 hours.

    How do you charge your eGos? I always recommend using an AC wall adapter (AKA wall wart)--just in case--5 volt, 1A output, especially when using batteries of questionable provenance.
    Both say 5v and 4.2v 420 mAh and using an old cell phone usb plug. Not exactly sure but I think the xhale is 650 or 900mAh (it's a bit smaller), and the ego-t is 900 or 1100mAh, idk tbh lol. I just thought it was kinda weird one charger says done and the other continues to charge. I'm guessing the xhale charger has a lower set (voltage regulator?), i.e. the xhale battery only is meant to output something like 3 volts and the ego-t 4 volts. Just a guess, idk. Apparently different brands, different outputs from the battery, and vice versa the still charging ego-t will be green on the xhale charger.
     

    Katya

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    I just thought it was kinda weird one charger says done and the other continues to charge.

    It is weird and it shouldn't be happening. Once the battery is charged, it's charged. Can you take them back to the store and ask for help/refund/exchange/explanation?

    And in the future, I strongly suggest you get a name brand eGo-class battery, preferably variable voltage. Joyetech eGo and Vision Spinner are two good brands.

    Good luck!
     

    Floah

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    It is weird and it shouldn't be happening. Once the battery is charged, it's charged. Can you take them back to the store and ask for help/refund/exchange/explanation?

    And in the future, I strongly suggest you get a name brand eGo-class battery, preferably variable voltage. Joyetech eGo and Vision Spinner are two good brands.

    Good luck!
    Probably could and thanks lol, more than anything, was really just worried about overcharging it and having it blow up in my face. Btw, do the vv have better vapor I assume? And do you recommend anything besides the ce4 clearos? I was looking into something like protank or nautilis mini perhaps.
     
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    bombastinator

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    Was actually recommended a pod system and nic salts (I'm a pretty light smoker for the most part), but I decided to just go with the ego first. Not really disappointed with my decision, I don't really care about the nicotine "rush", I find I'm pretty satisfied with just the normal juice.
    Yeah. IMHO Salts are only truly needed in the really weak mtl devices. Stuff on the level of a 2.2v cigalike from 10 years ago where getting a decent drag was very difficult even with 24mg juice. I personally think salts are way overused ATM. People seem to have a lot of false information about them.
    Everyone is different though. There are folks who DL salts. Whatever keeps you off the cigarettes is what works. Whether it works for the next person is irrelevant.
     

    Katya

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    Probably could and thanks lol, more than anything, was really just worried about overcharging it and having it blow up in my face

    Right. We don't want that.
    Btw, do the vv have better vapor I assume?

    Variable voltage lets you fine-tune your vape. If you increase your voltage, your coil heats up faster and produces more vapor. If your vapor is too hot, you can decrease the voltage. It also lets you sue different resistance coils on your eGos. But you'll have to learn the Ohm's law. I used to use this handy online calculator when I was using vv devices. Let's say you like to vape at 8 watts--just input your coil's resistance and you'll know what your voltage needs to be.

    Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

    Of course, now we're using variable wattage mods--the chip reads the resistance of your atomizer and chooses the voltage needed.

    And do you recommend anything besides the ce4 clearos? I was looking into something like protank or nautilis mini perhaps.

    Frankly, I would not recommend CE4s to anyone. Old technology and some studies showed that they tend to overheat and lead to juice degradation, resulting in increased amounts of formaldehyde and other nasties in your vapor.

    I'd recommend something like Kanger T4, eVod, or Aerotank mini--if you want a clearomizer that is similar in diameter to you eGos (14mm diameter). Anything larger than that, like Nautilus mini, will have that dreaded overhang. It will work, it will just look odd and you'll probably want to to get a beauty ring as seen in the picture below. If you don't mind the larger diameter (18 mm) of the Nautilus, that would be my choice.

    hqdefault.jpg


    If you don't want to deal with that, I think you should consider getting a small Variable Wattage box mod like an iStick 30--it's tiny, dependable, and you can use any atomizer you want on it--up to 24 mm diameter. I love mine and it was the mod that helped me transition from eGos and tube-style mods to box mods. I never looked back. :)
    • Size: 77mm x 23mm x 32.5mm
    • Color: Black Silver Fuchsia Blue
    • Voltage output: 2.0V – 8.0V
    • Wattage output: 5W – 30W
    • Threading: 510 spring loaded connection with stainless steel threading
    • 2200mAh battery

    Aspire-Nautilus-Mini-Edit-1.png
     

    Floah

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    Feb 17, 2019
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    Right. We don't want that.


    Variable voltage lets you fine-tune your vape. If you increase your voltage, your coil heats up faster and produces more vapor. If your vapor is too hot, you can decrease the voltage. It also lets you sue different resistance coils on your eGos. But you'll have to learn the Ohm's law. I used to use this handy online calculator when I was using vv devices. Let's say you like to vape at 8 watts--just input your coil's resistance and you'll know what your voltage needs to be.

    Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

    Of course, now we're using variable wattage mods--the chip reads the resistance of your atomizer and chooses the voltage needed.



    Frankly, I would not recommend CE4s to anyone. Old technology and some studies showed that they tend to overheat and lead to juice degradation, resulting in increased amounts of formaldehyde and other nasties in your vapor.

    I'd recommend something like Kanger T4, eVod, or Aerotank mini--if you want a clearomizer that is similar in diameter to you eGos (14mm diameter). Anything larger than that, like Nautilus mini, will have that dreaded overhang. It will work, it will just look odd and you'll probably want to to get a beauty ring as seen in the picture below. If you don't mind the larger diameter (18 mm) of the Nautilus, that would be my choice.

    hqdefault.jpg


    If you don't want to deal with that, I think you should consider getting a small Variable Wattage box mod like an iStick 30--it's tiny, dependable, and you can use any atomizer you want on it--up to 24 mm diameter. I love mine and it was the mod that helped me transition from eGos and tube-style mods to box mods. I never looked back. :)
    • Size: 77mm x 23mm x 32.5mm
    • Color: Black Silver Fuchsia Blue
    • Voltage output: 2.0V – 8.0V
    • Wattage output: 5W – 30W
    • Threading: 510 spring loaded connection with stainless steel threading
    • 2200mAh battery

    Aspire-Nautilus-Mini-Edit-1.png
    Thanks, may look into the iStick I think.
     
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