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This is just a matter of wording. The 'outside post' I mean is part of the battery connector part of the protank - that which comes in contact with the battery's center post. It is that which sticks out of the knurled part of the protank - hence 'outside'. And with the mini protank it is still outside but shielded by the 'eGo skirt' of the mini protank.
With both, there is a slotted post which can be pulled out a bit with a small set of needle nose pliers or something that can grab the slotted part and not the metal ring around it.
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Did you say that there is a wire is coming out from inside the hole on the bottom of the PT II? Shouldn't the wire be wedged between the slotted center post and the rubber-type gasket that sits below it?
See the latter part of this:
A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube
See the latter part of this:
A PBusardo Review All About The EVOD - Includes Recoiling - YouTube
Well the Spinner has a better form factor than the joyetech eGo-C Twist IMO, it's shorter and thicker and feels more substantial. I also like the dial better because it is so much easier to read. I actually think the 1100mAh Twist has a little better battery life than the 1300mAh Spinner, which obviously surprised me.
Overall I like both devices quite a bit. These are my work devices so I need about 8 hours and I need some subtlety.
Overall I like both devices quite a bit. These are my work devices so I need about 8 hours and I need some subtlety.
Ok. The heads have the end that goes into the battery, and the end that goes into the protank. Obviously we're not talking about the long tube end, that doesn't serve a purpose. The other end of the head, where the resistence coils start, is what I'm talking about. On that end, there's a rubber gromet that pinches one end of the coil under its flap, and in the center of this white gromet is the other end of this coil, as the two ends of the coil are supposed to be seperated. Should this end be pulled out from the center hole where it touches the battery first, or should it be pushed down in there?
MJTP:Ok. The heads have the end that goes into the battery, and the end that goes into the protank. Obviously we're not talking about the long tube end, that doesn't serve a purpose.
Correct. We're not talking about that part.
The other end of the head, where the resistence coils start, is what I'm talking about. On that end, there's a rubber gromet that pinches one end of the coil under its flap, and in the center of this white gromet is the other end of this coil, as the two ends of the coil are supposed to be seperated. Should this end be pulled out from the center hole where it touches the battery first, or should it be pushed down in there?
If the problem is that it isn't firing, then yes, that is one thing that can be the reason - that that end isn't coming in contact with the battery's center post. Easy does it on pulling it out - a few mm's should do it. The other thing could be that the battery center post needs to be 'pulled up' - usually done with the edge of a flat head screwdriver - again - easy does it because their are wires inside the battery connected to the center post.
All that said, the batts should be returned to the vendor as stated before by others. I don't know where that is between you and the vendor... but just for your info those center posts can be the problem. Or it could be something else entirely - just that is the most common when a battery is good but isn't firing the atomizer/coil.
Correct. We're not talking about that part.
The other end of the head, where the resistence coils start, is what I'm talking about. On that end, there's a rubber gromet that pinches one end of the coil under its flap, and in the center of this white gromet is the other end of this coil, as the two ends of the coil are supposed to be seperated. Should this end be pulled out from the center hole where it touches the battery first, or should it be pushed down in there?
If the problem is that it isn't firing, then yes, that is one thing that can be the reason - that that end isn't coming in contact with the battery's center post. Easy does it on pulling it out - a few mm's should do it. The other thing could be that the battery center post needs to be 'pulled up' - usually done with the edge of a flat head screwdriver - again - easy does it because their are wires inside the battery connected to the center post.
All that said, the batts should be returned to the vendor as stated before by others. I don't know where that is between you and the vendor... but just for your info those center posts can be the problem. Or it could be something else entirely - just that is the most common when a battery is good but isn't firing the atomizer/coil.
If you're getting vapor then it IS firing. I was going by this: "I also can get the battery to work every now and then, but most of the time it just shuts off. Works fine with nothing attached." ... which, when connected to the PT, sounds like a light or no connection to the battery of the center post on the Protank. If the battery just quits working - ie no led on the button when pressed, then it's a battery problem of course. If it 'just shuts off' meaning "the battery no longer fires", then it's the battery. If it 'just shuts off' meaning that the "battery led still lights up but you're not getting any vapor" - then it's the connection. OR a dead coil.
Sounds like those Blu cartos are a PITA. Are they really worth the trouble and expense? I started out on Blu e-cigs and tried their flavors and was never really impressed by any of them.
So I just got ahold of a pack of Blu cartos that actually worked to test my battery, and the battery, if it is overvolting, it's only by a small amount. The tobacco flavor cartos I got ahold of taste good, as good as the disposables (but still so different from how Blu's tobacco used to taste like buttered toffee popcorn, really good for a gas station product). No burnt tastes, though its just flat like how Johnson's Creek has been in Blu's these last few years (I figure this has to do with Blu setting a standard for flavors that don't appeal to children). But anyway, it proves that my battery isn't majorly overvolting. Proves instead that Kanger's heads suck, that MOV may have sent me a faulty juice, and that Blu's Java cartos should be outlawed as a ponzi scheme (three packs in a row all tasted burnt no matter how primed and manipulated they were.)
What next.
What next.
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