Two things come to mind, either your coil is contacting the side of the cup or one of the legs is hanging out enough to make contact.
I get .9 when I have the coil do this.
Eleaf GS Air Fan : Part 2
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I get .9 when I have the coil do this.
I'm just going to start using the magnifier and go back to using the 16 gauge. Continuing to do this is wasting wire and time. Thanks for your help though!! You're the Master!!
Lynn, you may have a hot spot somewhere, as Cheech said, something is touching something it shouldn't be touching.
Do you wind spaced coils? Those can be tricky in such small spaces. I make tight touching coils and never had a problem.
The 16 g needle is 1.65mm; the blue screwdriver--2 mm. I prefer 2 mm coils with all the loops touching--no shorts.
Just my
As usual, clarity.Lynn, you may have a hot spot somewhere, as Cheech said, something is touching something it shouldn't be touching.
Do you wind spaced coils? Those can be tricky in such small spaces. I make tight touching coils and never had a problem.
The 16 g needle is 1.65mm; the blue screwdriver--2 mm. I prefer 2 mm coils with all the loops touching--no shorts.
Just my
Not on purpose, I merely make sure they are coiled tight on the needle.Hello, Cheech!
Do you ever make touching coils for your Airs?
I used to do the tensioned, touching coil for the RTA's, now I'm a lazy coiler.
I am not enough of a connoisseur to make a distinction between the two.
Thanks Katya and Cheech!!
Katya, I try to make them touching but it's hard when you're winding on a needle or a screwdriver. I'm just going to use the stock ones from now until Thanksgiving. I have none rebuilt and I only rebuild on Saturdays and I'm working the next 2.
Thanks again to both of you for your help!! I appreciate it!
Katya, I try to make them touching but it's hard when you're winding on a needle or a screwdriver. I'm just going to use the stock ones from now until Thanksgiving. I have none rebuilt and I only rebuild on Saturdays and I'm working the next 2.
Thanks again to both of you for your help!! I appreciate it!
Not on purpose, I merely make sure they are coiled tight on the needle.
I used to do the tensioned, touching coil for the RTA's, now I'm a lazy coiler.
I am not enough of a connoisseur to make a distinction between the two.
I use my Kuro coiler--it makes beautiful, uniform, albeit not tensioned, touching coils. Then I just send a few gentle electrical pulses through the coil, give it a rake or two with a tip of my screwdriver to ensure a uniform glow from the center of the coil out, and I'm good. Works every time.
I will have to play with that and make a more informed decision...one of both, side by side.
You are welcome @LynnNC, sorry I wasn't much help. It was very flattering that you asked!
I own and use the 2 mm and the 2.5 mm coilers.
http://desertvapes.com/tobeco-kuro-coil-jig/
FWIW:
If it comes with a horizontal coil(s), it's silica (wick). Vertical coils (1.2Ω and TC) come wrapped in cotton.
I actually prefer the non-cotton GS Air DC (1.5Ω) coils.
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Hi everyone
I made a coils this morning using 28g grade 1 stainless steel wire for kayfun's on a 3mm screw driver reading .7ohms with rayon, have 1 kayfun on a ipv4s and the other on a evic mini vtc. So far having great results with ss wire tomorrow I am going to try it in the gs heads with a 2mm driver. I have moved into tc so far I really like it. My isticks are now my backups
I made a coils this morning using 28g grade 1 stainless steel wire for kayfun's on a 3mm screw driver reading .7ohms with rayon, have 1 kayfun on a ipv4s and the other on a evic mini vtc. So far having great results with ss wire tomorrow I am going to try it in the gs heads with a 2mm driver. I have moved into tc so far I really like it. My isticks are now my backups
After you've wound your coil, take it off the screwdriver and GENTLY "squish" the coil together with a pair of tweezers. You don't want to deform the loops or make the loops overlap each other. Then use a mini-torch or butane lighter to heat the coil until it turns orange, then let it cool.Thanks Katya and Cheech!!
Katya, I try to make them touching but it's hard when you're winding on a needle or a screwdriver. I'm just going to use the stock ones from now until Thanksgiving. I have none rebuilt and I only rebuild on Saturdays and I'm working the next 2.
Thanks again to both of you for your help!! I appreciate it!
There's a better way if you have an RBA, but I'm guessing that you don't.
There's an alternative if you have a pair of tweezers that will fit between the wick slots.
- Install your rebuilt coil into the coil head, then screw the coil head firmly into the GS base. (A rag or paper towel might help - the edges of the wick slots are kinda sharp.)
- Screw the base into your device.
- Adjust the power on the device to around 3.4-3.6V. You can go higher, but start low.
- Pulse the coil (short presses of the firing button) until it begins to glow orange. Your goal is to end up with a coil that heats (glows) evenly from center out towards the sides when power is applied.
- If it doesn't glow as mentioned, use your sharp-tipped tweezers to gently compress the coils AFTER YOU'VE RELEASED THE BUTTON, but while the coils are still glowing. DO NOT TRY TO COMPRESS THE COILS WHILE APPLYING POWER TO THE COILS - YOU WILL CREATE A SHORT.
- You can also "stroke" the coils with tweezers or other sharp object (as Katya mentioned) if the coils appear to all be touching, but you still can't get an even glow. Sometimes even just re-inserting the screwdriver (or whatever you used to wrap the coil) into the coil and moving it back and forth a few times will accomplish the same result.
Look for some coil rebuilding vids on YouTube if the above is unclear. The basic concepts on rebuilding with Kanthal are the same regardless of the atty being rebuilt.
Hope this helps.
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Hi everyone
I made a coils this morning using 28g grade 1 stainless steel wire for kayfun's on a 3mm screw driver reading .7ohms with rayon, have 1 kayfun on a ipv4s and the other on a evic mini vtc. So far having great results with ss wire tomorrow I am going to try it in the gs heads with a 2mm driver. I have moved into tc so far I really like it. My isticks are now my backups
How about rebuilding those Air coils with ss wire? Hmmm....
Yep is what im going to try with ss, I have to much of a hard time with ni wire and I have not tried with ti wire I just received.How about rebuilding those Air coils with ss wire? Hmmm....
Here's a good vid re the basics of 'touching' coils:Thanks Katya and Cheech!!
Katya, I try to make them touching but it's hard when you're winding on a needle or a screwdriver. I'm just going to use the stock ones from now until Thanksgiving. I have none rebuilt and I only rebuild on Saturdays and I'm working the next 2.
Thanks again to both of you for your help!! I appreciate it!
I leave my bit in the coil while installing it into the coil head, so that the ends of the drill bit rest in the wick slots of the coil head. He uses a mini torch. A butane lighter should work fine, although it will take a little longer to glow. Use a little longer tweezer if you have one to avoid the heat transfer.
Also when putting on the grommet and the pin, I try to keep the two wires directly opposite each other. To me it helps keep the coil centered in the head. (I noticed that in this vid his wires exit on the same side of the head.).
I used to do it his way. Now I do it "Phil's way"--I find it much easier and really foolproof.
Watch from 48:45 through 50:30. Different build (Subtank), but it shows how to make a touching coil on a Kuro coiler.
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