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Eleaf GS Air Fan

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Cheechako

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Yeah...
You have taken these things apart; I haven't. I think the flooding is coming from the degradation of the grommet>
juice pooling below the coil> juice getting sucked up through the coil into the chimney. The o-ring is not discolored or deformed at all. The grommet is.
Back to the "juice going past the coil" into that area, not bypassing the upper o-ring...
I cannot imagine how, without sitting for some time, there would be a failure that would allow sudden flooding
into that area. The rebuilds with far less liner material don't leak at all. If you see the liner material in the
video, it's pretty thick!
Bikenstein has rebuilt these critters so I'm hoping for some theorizing on his part...
 

Bikenstein

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You asked for it :) I assume GranF is calling the insulator for the coil legs a grommet. It gets discolored and degraded because of the heat of the coil. With these coils, you don't have a tight connection that RBAs and RTAs provide. I suppose juice could leak down the wires if enough damage was done but it would be definitely leaking through the center pin if the coil was flooded that much. The oring seal that seals the coil in the base is not a likely candidate for leaking either as it is flexible and provides a good seal on flat surfaces. This seal can even withstand being gripped by pliers when pressing the coil cap on when rebuilding. That leaves 2 other possibilities. One would be flooding the coil by drawing too hard, bringing juice into the coil faster than it can vaporize. The other would be the seal on the top cap that seals between the cap and chimney. These top gaskets are easier to damage and if you distort the cover any at all when pressing it on after a rebuild, it will not seal well. One thing about these top gaskets is that some have a notch in them from the factory. This notch is also deeper on some than others, so this could account for leaking on some more than others. Other than that, the only thing I can see at this point is the coil, once screwed into the base has to be at a precise height in order for the top cap to chimney seal to work when screwing the tank on. If you tighten the coil down hard in the base, it may compress the o-ring and cause the top cap seal to be too loose. I usually snug the coil into the base but not as tight as I can. This would allow the top cap seal to make better and pressure the coil to seal on the bottom o-ring. My 2 cents and I just dumped a tank of juice messin around with my atty :)
 

Cheechako

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You asked for it :) I assume GranF is calling the insulator for the coil legs a grommet. It gets discolored and degraded because of the heat of the coil. With these coils, you don't have a tight connection that RBAs and RTAs provide. I suppose juice could leak down the wires if enough damage was done but it would be definitely leaking through the center pin if the coil was flooded that much. The oring seal that seals the coil in the base is not a likely candidate for leaking either as it is flexible and provides a good seal on flat surfaces. This seal can even withstand being gripped by pliers when pressing the coil cap on when rebuilding. That leaves 2 other possibilities. One would be flooding the coil by drawing too hard, bringing juice into the coil faster than it can vaporize. The other would be the seal on the top cap that seals between the cap and chimney. These top gaskets are easier to damage and if you distort the cover any at all when pressing it on after a rebuild, it will not seal well. One thing about these top gaskets is that some have a notch in them from the factory. This notch is also deeper on some than others, so this could account for leaking on some more than others. Other than that, the only thing I can see at this point is the coil, once screwed into the base has to be at a precise height in order for the top cap to chimney seal to work when screwing the tank on. If you tighten the coil down hard in the base, it may compress the o-ring and cause the top cap seal to be too loose. I usually snug the coil into the base but not as tight as I can. This would allow the top cap seal to make better and pressure the coil to seal on the bottom o-ring. My 2 cents and I just dumped a tank of juice messin around with my atty :)
Brilliant! Very much like the old Evod-Protank coils, if someone complained of flooding, there could be more than one explaination
for it. Driving both the advice giver and taker crazy!
I had not noticed the notch in the upper gasket...gotta look closer!
 

Cheechako

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By the way GF, how did priming the wick work for you?
I've done this with all my clearos, never did understand waiting for it to wick from the tank.
Everytime I advise this to get started right away, they complain it flooded the wick...gee,
I said a drop or two, not flood it!
Drop or two down the pipe and you're ready to rock n' roll!
 

GranFumador

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By the way GF, how did priming the wick work for you?
I've done this with all my clearos, never did understand waiting for it to wick from the tank.
Everytime I advise this to get started right away, they complain it flooded the wick...gee,
I said a drop or two, not flood it!
Drop or two down the pipe and you're ready to rock n' roll!
Well, Sir, I figured that yours was condign advice, so I took it...to a small extreme, perhaps. I plopped four big drops (trusting your advice so well I applied it twice) down the coil chimney. Then I loaded the Air with fresh juice, screwed on the Air base, and did the impossible. I waited a few minutes while reading last night's béisbol scores and standings on behalf of our beloved Ms. Tibs. Then I vaped. Happily. With good airflow and taste.
No wick flooding.
No unwanted underarm stains.
No pesticides killing innocent honey bees.
Just a good vape.

Thank you for the good advice.
May the force be with you, young Skywalker.
 

Bikenstein

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Brilliant! Very much like the old Evod-Protank coils, if someone complained of flooding, there could be more than one explaination
for it. Driving both the advice giver and taker crazy!
I had not noticed the notch in the upper gasket...gotta look closer!
Here's a closer look. I see this often. The one on the right has a notch from manufacturing. Both are genuine coils
New attys 004 (640x479).jpg
 
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Cheechako

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Well, Sir, I figured that yours was condign advice, so I took it...to a small extreme, perhaps. I plopped four big drops (trusting your advice so well I applied it twice) down the coil chimney. Then I loaded the Air with fresh juice, screwed on the Air base, and did the impossible. I waited a few minutes while reading last night's béisbol scores and standings on behalf of our beloved Ms. Tibs. Then I vaped. Happily. With good airflow and taste.
No wick flooding.
No unwanted underarm stains.
No pesticides killing innocent honey bees.
Just a good vape.

Thank you for the good advice.
May the force be with you, young Skywalker.
Good for you! I don't even wait a few minutes, by the time i get it back together and on the mod, I'm vapin'! :)
Did you also check your tire pressure?
 

Cheechako

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Here's a closer look. I see this often. The one on the right has a notch from manufacturing. Both are genuine coils
View attachment 458050

Um...sorry, no. Unless you mean that inverted "V" at the six o'clock position on the outer perimeter
of the gasket?
 

Bikenstein

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Um...sorry, no. Unless you mean that inverted "V" at the six o'clock position on the outer perimeter
of the gasket?
The left side of the V you are seeing is the left edge of the notch. It is 1/4 round in shape and continues about 6 ridges to the right. I don't know why you can't see it. I don't know how to put a pointer in the pic. Never tried that.
 

Cheechako

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The left side of the V you are seeing is the left edge of the notch. It is 1/4 round in shape and continues about 6 ridges to the right. I don't know why you can't see it. I don't know how to put a pointer in the pic. Never tried that.
Sorry, not being obtuse, but that area in the shadow of the chimney?
 

Bikenstein

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Sorry, not being obtuse, but that area in the shadow of the chimney?
No. It starts about six o clock and goes past five o clock, maybe 4:30 :)
ETA: Disregard the right side of the inverted V you are seeing . That is a juice line or hair or something in the notch area. :)
 
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