You asked for it

I assume GranF is calling the insulator for the coil legs a grommet. It gets discolored and degraded because of the heat of the coil. With these coils, you don't have a tight connection that RBAs and RTAs provide. I suppose juice could leak down the wires if enough damage was done but it would be definitely leaking through the center pin if the coil was flooded that much. The oring seal that seals the coil in the base is not a likely candidate for leaking either as it is flexible and provides a good seal on flat surfaces. This seal can even withstand being gripped by pliers when pressing the coil cap on when rebuilding. That leaves 2 other possibilities. One would be flooding the coil by drawing too hard, bringing juice into the coil faster than it can vaporize. The other would be the seal on the top cap that seals between the cap and chimney. These top gaskets are easier to damage and if you distort the cover any at all when pressing it on after a rebuild, it will not seal well. One thing about these top gaskets is that some have a notch in them from the factory. This notch is also deeper on some than others, so this could account for leaking on some more than others. Other than that, the only thing I can see
at this point is the coil, once screwed into the base has to be at a precise height in order for the top cap to chimney seal to work when screwing the tank on. If you tighten the coil down hard in the base, it may compress the o-ring and cause the top cap seal to be too loose. I usually snug the coil into the base but not as tight as I can. This would allow the top cap seal to make better and pressure the coil to seal on the bottom o-ring. My 2 cents and I just dumped a tank of juice messin around with my atty