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Eleaf IStick 50W coming Jan 25th
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So I ordered mine from vape Authority on Friday and received it Monday. Loving every second of it until today. Everything I vaped was horrid and burnt. Tried 3 different RDAs and all the same. Then I realized that somehow I hit the button and switched from watts to volts. So when I thought I was vaping at 8 watts it was really 8 volts, or around 22 watts on a 1.6 coil. Moral of the story, I'm an idiot.
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What likely and actually often happens is the flavors you have simply won't vape well at higher wattages with what you are using for RDAs. This can get to you with regular replaceable coils as well as with something rebuildable where certain flavors at say 20w just won't cut it regardless of what you have attached to the battery or mod in use. You'll think something needs replacing or rebuilding when trying out a few flavors and then you hit one with everything still the same that you can turn up to 40w!
Now for tankjs that range about 20w for the max like a Nautilus you will see the same type of problem where one flavor can cranked way up and vape like a champ and then the next you have to keep down at 6-7w! And it isn't always the wattage at fault either. I have Japanese cotton here I could actually toss since some flavors simply won't make the grade while they suffice on an Atlantis when turned up. The funny thing is when you see the volts that's due to changing the display mode not the wattage to voltage since there is not voltage mode.
Somehow you hit something to be seeing the display change over. In the case of the wattage mode only most of the new mods seen now will simply adjust the voltage for you automatically according to the resistance. With one mod here with the Atlantis on I will see 3.8v when turned up to 30w., 3.1v at 20w, and for 22w it with show 3.3v. For the iStick 20w = 3.4v, 22w = 3.6v and for 30w where I have the other set still having an Atlantis on with the 0.5ohm coils that will be 4.2v. So far I haven't seen the display change at all from having the wattage in large characters and pressing to hold both plus and minus buttons will either lock or unlock the present setting.
Now for tankjs that range about 20w for the max like a Nautilus you will see the same type of problem where one flavor can cranked way up and vape like a champ and then the next you have to keep down at 6-7w! And it isn't always the wattage at fault either. I have Japanese cotton here I could actually toss since some flavors simply won't make the grade while they suffice on an Atlantis when turned up. The funny thing is when you see the volts that's due to changing the display mode not the wattage to voltage since there is not voltage mode.
Somehow you hit something to be seeing the display change over. In the case of the wattage mode only most of the new mods seen now will simply adjust the voltage for you automatically according to the resistance. With one mod here with the Atlantis on I will see 3.8v when turned up to 30w., 3.1v at 20w, and for 22w it with show 3.3v. For the iStick 20w = 3.4v, 22w = 3.6v and for 30w where I have the other set still having an Atlantis on with the 0.5ohm coils that will be 4.2v. So far I haven't seen the display change at all from having the wattage in large characters and pressing to hold both plus and minus buttons will either lock or unlock the present setting.
I don't believe it! I may finally just have to recharge the 50W I got from CVapes since it is now on the last bar from the factory pre-charge. When someone reported the buttton broke on the 20W they had seeing the button stick in and keep firing for the 10seconds I told that person not to bother with the 20w or 30w that still sees the exact same button but go for the 50W! You can tell it is much better since iSmoka has put more into the 50w to begin with.
Come to the dog show in Edison and I will let you try one LOL! My precious (es).Still can't find one...I'm going to have to steal one of clnire's dammit
HAHA...I've tried it and me likesessss it...That's why I am gonna stealss one of yer precioussses...
Still can't find one...I'm going to have to steal one of clnire's dammit
101vape has the Black in stock at the moment. The other three colors are out of stock however. Eleaf Istick 50 watt (4400 mah) FULL KIT - 101 Vape
Central Vapor out of stock where I got one of mine as well as Mt Baker leaving Big D Vapor with the full kit for $10 more. iStick 50 Watt Box Mod from eLeaf/iSmoka
EVCigarettes has all but the Black in contrast for $55 with separate options for the charging cord and 510-eGo adapter. Eleaf iStick 50W Box MOD by iSmoka - EVcigarettes.com
VapeNW only has the Red in stock until the end of the month. Personally I would jump on the Black at 101Vape while they have it there. iStick 50W by Eleaf
You have to check back with any preferred vendors from time to time in case they get more in since these are selling out like hotcakes on a moment's notice.
You'll have some! There's no doubt about that at all especially if you had already bought the previous 20w version.
just a suggestion to anyone who vapes this iStick.. be VERY careful when vaping while plugged in because the little usb connector pins break of very easily. Even when youre charging your iSitck, dont bump the usb connection on anything because it will snap the connection with ease...
I now have an iPaperwieght.
I now have an iPaperwieght.
I don't have that kind of problem by laying the pair I have here on their side in a location where they can't be bumped into or dropped. You'll find most mods are a bit vulnerable if taken care of properly and simply tossed around.
As a rule I never use the passthrough option on any battery or mod not wanting a cord attached during use. I buy them in pairs instead so one can be in use while the other one or more is recharged.
As a rule I never use the passthrough option on any battery or mod not wanting a cord attached during use. I buy them in pairs instead so one can be in use while the other one or more is recharged.
It's not just the istick port either. I keep a few around for my custom builts because I've snapped a couple not paying attention.
The expression for anything like this would be "Handle with Care"! If you rough handle things they do tend to break! If you have a habit of slamming plugs into ports that will do it every time.
In order to make things last the first good habit to get into is learning how to handle things with "kid gloves" treating them as they are delicate. Don't be in so much of a rush to do things. This is where most end up damaging something by not having a little patience.
When people were reporting they stripped out the threads on the 20Ws and yet I haven't had one ouch of any problem with a pair of those you have to stop and think about how you are going about things. None of this stuff is actually made to last. Companies wouldn't stay in business long if they weren't busy selling replacements as well as introducing newer models at times.
In order to make things last the first good habit to get into is learning how to handle things with "kid gloves" treating them as they are delicate. Don't be in so much of a rush to do things. This is where most end up damaging something by not having a little patience.
When people were reporting they stripped out the threads on the 20Ws and yet I haven't had one ouch of any problem with a pair of those you have to stop and think about how you are going about things. None of this stuff is actually made to last. Companies wouldn't stay in business long if they weren't busy selling replacements as well as introducing newer models at times.
I totally agree.. The thing with this mod is that you cant lay it down in a way where the cord isnt sticking out in a vulnerable position... The iStick 20 and 30 didnt have this problem because the port was on the side... But yeah I agree, its all about handling with care...
Where I have mine set up you can't bump into it unless by intent. I set the mods down on a pair of pads used for opening jars so they never get scratched in a place that I'm the only one that can get to. One is 150w wooden box mod where the port is at the lower front and the wood is thin Rosewood.
You have to place things were they can't get bumped into by kids or pets or people passing by to start with as well as treating any type of hand held device as delicate to a degree by making it a habit. You learn that for sure when being an E tech as well as going back to school to become a pc hardware specialist about how to go about handling things with care.
You have to place things were they can't get bumped into by kids or pets or people passing by to start with as well as treating any type of hand held device as delicate to a degree by making it a habit. You learn that for sure when being an E tech as well as going back to school to become a pc hardware specialist about how to go about handling things with care.
I just received my iStick 50w a few days ago and i've been using it since with my subtank mini, awesome duet. One thing i've been experiencing with mine is that the fire button is sometimes hit or miss while pushing it down from various angles. Anyone else having this issue?
Have a pair of them here in perfect working order! The only problem with any iStick so far was due to a coil in a tank on one of the 20w causing a problem when not allowing it to run over 11.2w. Once the tank itself was swapped off and found to be the problem on another mod the new coil went in and it went back onto the 20w again without any further issue.
I've been hearing from some about the button being stuck on some of the 20Ws but this is the first for the 50Ws. The button on another 50w mod however is a headache however when trying to lock or unlock the mod and the 5 clicks ends being two dozen at times.
The multicolor led stopped working entirely as well. That was a gimic with that one however.- Status
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