Hahaha.. I'm happy with what I have. I've got a Mutank, Crius, Zephyrus, a couple of Ego One Mega tanks that I use with my VTC Minis. I have the Bachelor Nano and noe the Serpent Mini for the Pico. Trying to negotiate with another vaper here on a couple more of Serpent Minis.
I think I need to get some accessories like Drip Tips and vape Bands. I think I need to get rid of some stuff too. [emoji2]
Upgraded my wife's set up today - from the OG version to the new pico - she'll be hella surprised when she sees it all matchy matchy - pico w/ UD Zephyrus- dual coil ss316 - ohms out @ 0.23 ohms - tc set at 420f - 42 watts
Has anyone tried the Kayfun mini-plus with the Pico? The specs at fasttech measure the diameter at 22.5mm, but unclear what that measurement refers to - the base or the bulge above.
The pictures should be self explanatory. It's something to be careful about. The Pico will still charge but that part is what held the usb cable in place. It will slide back in but comes out easily too. Without that part firmly in place the cable comes out with very little provocation. Anybody know of a way to fix this? I hesitate to take the device apart only to find there is no fix and then I can't get it back in good working order. The moral of the story might be to be sure any cable you use for charging slides in and out easily.
The leads for the port still work. The part that came out goes around the outside of the port and keeps the cable end in position. May be some tabs bent to allow the part to come out. (Back in the day I returned an egrip to an American retailer because of a usb port problem.) I wrote to Fasttech about the problem. I've been using the mod for about a month. If they will exchange it I'll go with that. The Pico is still my favorite mod and it's the one I'd like to be in the front line of my 10 year stash. First lesson is treat the USB connector gently, fair enough.
I calculate that the fire button should last 2 years x 5 mods =10 years. But what if I don't average 2 years per mod? Answer, have 5 more of some other mod like vtc minis, my second favorite. The total cost of all those mods is not that much although I'm hating spending money that way. Fortunately I could happily spend the rest of my days vaping an SV rda clone, which are only $9 each so no problem having enough of those.
I'm accumulating the stash slowly. May be there will be a miracle. Anybody here believe in miracles?
Join and support CASAA financially, if you can. Even a couple of dollars a month will make a difference. Follow their calls to action. Support SFATA, SeviaUS, AEMSA, NBS--they need money for lawyers. Support Nicopure Labs/Halo and Lost Art Liquids--they have already filed law suits. Write a thank you letter to Sen. Ron Johnson from Senate Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs who has challenged the FDA and demanded explanations. We need to sue the crap out of FDA. We need to write to our representatives in Congress and demand that they support Cole-Bishop amendment to the 2017 Agricultural Appr. bill and the HB2058. We need to have that grandfather date moved to 2016 from 2007.
Just for starters.
ETA: And by "you" I don't mean you personally, sofar. I mean all of us, every vaper in this country! If we don't act now, we're screwed.
Has anyone tried the Kayfun mini-plus with the Pico? The specs at Fasttech measure the diameter at 22.5mm, but unclear what that measurement refers to - the base or the bulge above.
It has been reported it even works with the 24mm version when screwing down the battery cap after the atty has been installed already: iStick Pico: FastTech Forums
Would you guess that the new heads ["QCS (Quick Change System) coil" and "LVC (Liquid Valve Control) Clapton-1.5ohm head"] are backwards-compatible with the original (non-Pro) CUBIS?
Just chiming in that, as @USMCotaku mentioned earlier, disassembly of the Pico isn't all that hard. Really.
BUT, *some* stuff are spring loaded with small loose springs (off the top of my head, the +- buttons and the +ve terminal) and there are some wires you need to watch out for (board to 510 and board to "sub"-board for the bottom switches - you want both to stay attached to where ever they're attached to) so do take care.
A quick tip, do the bottom part first.
Otherwise, I think @USMCotaku's instructions are pretty clear already, but if you want a (slightly) more detailed step by step, check out the spoiler below.
First, unscrew the bottom plate, and very slowly pull the bottom plate away from the main body - there will be a couple of screws you need to undo *inside* to be able to saperate the bottom plate from the bottom part of the internal board aka the "sub"-board (thar be springs here). Only then can you completely put the bottom plate aside.
Next, unscrew the top part, slowly pull it away (and slowly free the mainboard "legs" that are mounted to it) and you can slowly (after removing the fire button) push the entire board up through the cavity (with the "sub"-board in tow) and out through the top end - with a little angling of the board(s) to fit.
The board(s) should come out cleanly, still attached to the top plate (the 510).
Voila. Your beloved mod is in pieces and you can do whatever you need with that microUSB port.
I haven't gotten around to charging my pico, so I decided to do my own self test and drain it all the way to 3.4v and see if I get any low voltage errors. It's painful though. I can definitely notice a dropoff in vape quality at this power level. I'm at 3.47v after pretty much a full 2 days. I should just fire a base with just wire for the rest of this test.
It actually isn't that bad now that I've turned the voltage up a tiny bit.
So I finally got it down to 3.39v and I didn't get any errors. I put on my subtank and ran it at 14 watts and didn't get any errors either.
Then before I gave up I decided to pump my subtank up to 45 watts and fire it for a split second, and then it finally gave me a "weak battery" message. So I guess mine does it too. Dunno if it's an inherent defect or what. The battery meter is pretty low though, so that's probably normal.
Would you guess that the new heads ["QCS (Quick Change System) coil" and "LVC (Liquid Valve Control) Clapton-1.5ohm head"] are backwards-compatible with the original (non-Pro) CUBIS?
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