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ePipeMods Fully Custom Made Wood E-Pipes - Part 2

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gwbard

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Gwbard....what ego thread cover is that on ur dragon with the tatroe?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
it's an airflow controller actually, I think it looks good plus it helps with the "airiness" of the pro tank.
I probably got it from either discountvapers.com or smoktek.com
 

gwbard

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Ok, your just showin off now lol! And Im glad your doin it. You definitely go for finest of all pieces man.
Why yes -- yes I am. :D

speaking of the Cobra (Jahf), I just got mine with a Fire Breathing Dragon tank :2cool:
and there is ONE pipe man enough to handle it: BOROMIR
5mya6s.jpg

20130612_220635.jpg 20130612_232837.jpg

:vapor:
 

Jahf

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Jahf...If you ever get that setup...I would love to have a piece 'tourched'....tatroe is coming out with some colored tanks...but no purple...i would like to see a pic of some of ur tourched stuff... thanks for the input...

The tatroe is stainless (unless I'm mistaken and they have a titanium option) so you won't get a purple on it. However you CAN get a decent range of iridescent blues.

Speaking of ...

speaking of the Cobra (Jahf), I just got mine with a Fire Breathing Dragon tank :2cool:
and there is ONE pipe man enough to handle it: BOROMIR
:vapor:

:)

Perfect, people can compare the photo you posted with this one (click it to enlarge) ... that is the same tank that gwbard posted but torched.

The purple tank in the center is titanium torched at around ... umm ... lost my chart but I think it was around 1100 farenheit.

NOTE: The drip tip is 2 parts ... the metal part of the drip tip is an example of stainless steel taken past the iridescent color, past blue, to a dark blueish purple ... closest that you can get to the purple color and a bit risky since it is close to the melting point.

I only torched the middle of the tank because I didn't want to toast the edges on the bottom and the thickness of the top was prohibitive to safely torching (because you have to add so much more heat to the thicker top ... threatening the integrity of the main section ... my wife's torches are oxy-acetylene and pretty darned hot).

The kiln I bought should in theory let me get that deep purple very evenly on the entire piece as well as control stainless well enough to get good hues on it.

I still need to get a good "internal" polisher to -remove- the oxidation from the inside of the tank after doing this, as there are some very slight long-term risks if an acidic juice sits in it too long. I'll admit ... I vape from it as-is right now :) But I only use sweet / non-acidic juices in it.

_DSC2331-processed-small.jpg

We're on some trips this summer and I'm not sure when I'm going to get the 220v going (didn't know it was a 220v kiln, got it from a friend who stored it for a year before I had a chance to pick it up) so it will be a bit ... but if I get the process down I'll post :)
 

Jahf

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The LavaGen I have next to the Cobra is also a torched tank ... in that case stainless steel Reactor caps. Hard to see in the picture but the color goes from a brassy color to an iridescent in the middle. That's why I like torches on thicker pieces instead of the kiln / oven treatment because you can get really neat variations in the color.

Stainless is also MUCH easier to polish back down to "clean" if you don't like it. I polished a bit of the titanium where it didn't quite look good and the wife still hasn't forgiven me for how much I beat up her polishing wheel.
 

Jahf

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Argh!

My Dublin, he broke.

I had put an O-ring on the brass RBA between it and the 510 to kill the empty space and I overtightened. When I went to unscrew it the 510/ego connector plain popped out.

My fault, the O-ring was just too thick. I had probably also damaged the glue over all of the times I've popped the battery out too hard.

The negative wire pulled loose from the connector inside the glue seal (as in ... it looks connected but electrically it isn't hitting the connector). Tested with the meter to be sure. Negative post on the bare wire with positive post touching the 510 positive works fine.

(Matt: messaging you in PMs about repair, I know you've got it on the web site)

PS. I found a better way to remove the battery ... though I admit I'm too lazy to remember to do it (maybe that will change now). Use a magnet on the switch to pull it out. I'd actually been using a couple of ePipe buttons I have spare to do this on the CIY block already. I just never think to grab them when swapping batteries on the small pipe.

Good thing for me I have my stogie in on Friday :)
 

ThetaReactor

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If I happen to come across a rusticated cocobolo pipe, I'll then be compelled to find a suitably pretty steel atty and give it a nice hot bluing, so as to make a suitable companion for one of my other favorite pretty things:



(Hey, Matt, do you think tritium inserts in a pipe would be too much? :D )
 
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Waho

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Good morning folks!

Thought I'd show this photo to ya and gather some opinions. I went ahead and soaked my brass atty in peroxide and vinegar and this photo was taken in progress.

IMG_20130613_105318_917_zpsb40bcb25.jpg


Not sure what the black residue is, but I'll be damned if it wasn't a hell of a "I have to leave for work in 20 minutes" polish job to get rid of it.

Here it is, only half done polished, on the cocobolo Mjolnir :p

IMG_20130613_113958_398_zps6f0b40c7.jpg


If you're ok with the maybe lead, don't bother with this as the residue is a real pita to polish out.
 

Jahf

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Yeah, if you don't have a mechanical polisher it would be a real PITA. But looks like you're getting there and I love it with the standard tip on the Mjolnir.

Speaking of Mjolnirs ... oh right, tomorrow. Tomorrow. I'll order ... tomorrow. It's only a day away.

(may that stupid song get stuck in your heads and distract you while I order my way to a win)
 

Waho

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Yeah, if you don't have a mechanical polisher it would be a real PITA.

You are my new favorite person, I have a dremel with polishing wheel I've totally forgotten about that I lent my neighbor a few weeks ago. That should lessen the wrist work a bit.

IMG_20130613_104846_913_zpscf166d89.jpg


Here's how it's headed to work with me :D
 

MistBusterMatt

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Good morning folks!

Thought I'd show this photo to ya and gather some opinions. I went ahead and soaked my brass atty in peroxide and vinegar and this photo was taken in progress.

IMG_20130613_105318_917_zpsb40bcb25.jpg


Not sure what the black residue is, but I'll be damned if it wasn't a hell of a "I have to leave for work in 20 minutes" polish job to get rid of it.

Here it is, only half done polished, on the cocobolo Mjolnir :p

IMG_20130613_113958_398_zps6f0b40c7.jpg


If you're ok with the maybe lead, don't bother with this as the residue is a real pita to polish out.

The black is probably machining residue, or perhaps even polishing compound that got stuck in the engraving.
I kinda like the contrast of the black line in the engraving.
 
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