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ePipeMods Fully Custom Made Wood E-Pipes - Part 2

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millertime660

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My girlfriend got me a Russian full size for Christmas. I know, I know, normally I am ardently anti-clone, but I much prefer the finish of the Russian compared to the Kayfun. If two products are functionally identical but one looks better (in my opinion), then that's the one I want, clone or not.

Anyway, that little tangent wasn't my point; I have a 1.3 ohm micro-coil/cotton build on the Russian and I am running it on a kicked Flip from V3tronix. Lets just say my Provari and my pipes are beginning to feel a little neglected. Not sure how I got along before a Kayfun style atomizer, but I'm sure I never want to live without one again.

I can't wait to try it. I've done so much frakin research on them already that I already know I love them haha. Hopefully it's the atty I'm looking for. And like Matt said, if I use and like it for long enough I will easily buy a mini for my pipes.
 

MistBusterMatt

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I do like your freehands Matt, but is there a chance for an occasional freehand or two that's not quite so elaborate (and expensive). Just a slightly new take on an already existing pipe?

That is what I'm working on right now. Freehands do start at $250 though regardless of design. It takes roughly 3-4 times as long for me to make an average freehand instead of a shankless pipe. Given the time involved VS. a freehand $250 is as low as I can go.
On my rack now-
2 amboyna 18500 sitters~ 1 Rhodesian almost full bent, 1 amphora almost full bent.
1 Israeli olive wood 18350 calabash/ Sherlock~ like the one Dirq got a while back
3 Briar ~ 1 long shank 18350 "Bard", 1 fat bottom brandy 18500, 1 elaborate calabash 18500 with exceptional grain.
 

Akdare

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I can't wait to try it. I've done so much frakin research on them already that I already know I love them haha. Hopefully it's the atty I'm looking for. And like Matt said, if I use and like it for long enough I will easily buy a mini for my pipes.

I have a KFL+. I love it. It is one of my top 2 atty's, the other being the GP Spheroid. I love them both so much, that I've ordered a second one of each. And, a Kayfun Mini, full kit.

I should receive next week in the post, my very first EPM pipe...very excited. I will be using either the Kayfun Mini, or the Spheroid on the pipe...


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dirquist

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That is what I'm working on right now. Freehands do start at $250 though regardless of design. It takes roughly 3-4 times as long for me to make an average freehand instead of a shankless pipe. Given the time involved VS. a freehand $250 is as low as I can go.
On my rack now-
2 amboyna 18500 sitters~ 1 Rhodesian almost full bent, 1 amphora almost full bent.
1 Israeli olive wood 18350 calabash/ Sherlock~ like the one Dirq got a while back
3 Briar ~ 1 long shank 18350 "Bard", 1 fat bottom brandy 18500, 1 elaborate calabash 18500 with exceptional grain.

Ya, I gotta admit, Im a little jealous of your shop because it takes so much of your time. Ive been secretly wishing you could rock out a steady stream of low end freehands with some over the top elaborate ones for a while now but never said anything because I know you must already be so overextended. Sounds like your new strategy is the ticket. That dang shop is stealing my favorite artisan from me lol.

Funny you mention my Calabash. I was just telling someone who was commenting on my more elaborate pipes that the Calabash is actually my most used pipe with the best piping feel.

Here we go, just to get everyone in the mood to do their bidding.


BJ WHERE ARE YOU!




Pipe of the Day 27 by pseudohippy, on Flickr
 

dirquist

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That's gorgeous Dirq.


I'm guessing all freehands have shanks?

Most but not all. Another cool thing about the calabash is the ego connector is removable and you can flush mount to the recessed 510. I kinda wished the shanked was custom sized to match my penelope but it actually does match my Aqua almost perfectly but I dont have a pipe stem for that sadly.
 

millertime660

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That is what I'm working on right now. Freehands do start at $250 though regardless of design. It takes roughly 3-4 times as long for me to make an average freehand instead of a shankless pipe. Given the time involved VS. a freehand $250 is as low as I can go.
On my rack now-
2 amboyna 18500 sitters~ 1 Rhodesian almost full bent, 1 amphora almost full bent.
1 Israeli olive wood 18350 calabash/ Sherlock~ like the one Dirq got a while back
3 Briar ~ 1 long shank 18350 "Bard", 1 fat bottom brandy 18500, 1 elaborate calabash 18500 with exceptional grain.

All sounds fantastic! I can totally get behind a freehand between 250 and 350 right now, if its the right one. I will eventually want to get a special one, but 400-600 is just too rich for my blood at this point in time. Not saying at all that they arent worth it because they sure as hell are!

Davy jones and the wood elf haunt me in my sleep :unsure:

I really cant wait to see the new stuff matt!
 

dirquist

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That is a nice looking pipe dirq! Did you custom fit the stem?

No, I got that one from Romaniac. It only fits perfectly on one of my three Penelopes. Lucky for me I now have three different Penelope stems and each one only fits one particular Penelope so I cant switch my penes around without the stems switching at the same time lol.
 

dirquist

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Yup, with a micro coil. It makes it so much easier to rebuild without changing any of the wire. Just slip a new cotton in and on you go. I hate having to build it from scratch and now I go a couple months on the wire. You gotta consider they share time with my other devices so they are not in use all day or anything.
 

millertime660

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Yup, with a micro coil. It makes it so much easier to rebuild without changing any of the wire. Just slip a new cotton in and on you go. I hate having to build it from scratch and now I go a couple months on the wire. You gotta consider they share time with my other devices so they are not in use all day or anything.

Back when I owned a penny I had just started to realize I hated silica.... now that I use micro coils and cotton i feel like i would love it as a "on the go" pipe atty.
 

Jahf

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Finally back online ... we had a power outage and wife didn't realize the PC needed to be powered down, even if in sleep mode, before turning off the UPS to stop the beeping. Given the amount of stuff I do on this PC (multiple monitors for video editing/gaming, Program Files directories mapped to alternate drives, etc) getting it back up properly is a real fun job. But luckily I keep a backup of everything valuable on multiple drives.

That is what I'm working on right now. Freehands do start at $250 though regardless of design. It takes roughly 3-4 times as long for me to make an average freehand instead of a shankless pipe. Given the time involved VS. a freehand $250 is as low as I can go.
On my rack now-
2 amboyna 18500 sitters~ 1 Rhodesian almost full bent, 1 amphora almost full bent.
1 Israeli olive wood 18350 calabash/ Sherlock~ like the one Dirq got a while back
3 Briar ~ 1 long shank 18350 "Bard", 1 fat bottom brandy 18500, 1 elaborate calabash 18500 with exceptional grain.

$250 for a freehand "basic" price makes perfect sense. And given how quickly the $500+ pipes sell, seems like no one is disagreeing :) If/when I ever see Gothmog I'm expecting a $1000 on it. Snail took a bit (compared to most) to go ... but go it went and so the market agreed.

I got really interested in the 26650 and 18650 pipes ... I'm quickly moving my daily vapes to 650 batteries ... just no funds while figuring out the legal messes around the shop. We may do a temp incorporation on the art gallery and then sell it ourselves in a new corp once my federal disability is decided (assuming they agree) so that we qualify for better terms on stuff as a disabled-owned establishment.

Man I hate that word. I would much prefer it if they called it "too grumpy with pain to work fully". Or maybe just "Grinch-owned".
 

Akdare

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Pipe mod DOA. Or I'm a complete idiot.

Vape safe in bowl. Battery charged and measures 4.2v. Positive end down. Button switch on negative end. Drop into bowl. Switch moves up and down without friction. Will not fire any atty. Checked voltage at 510 connector. Zero volts. Checked continuity on vape safe. Zero ohms, so ok. Checked continuity between positive contact in bottom of bowl and keyring. Infinite ohms...not ok...

Anything else I should check? Or does it indeed need to be returned for a fix...


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MistBusterMatt

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Pipe mod DOA. Or I'm a complete idiot.

Vape safe in bowl. Battery charged and measures 4.2v. Positive end down. Button switch on negative end. Drop into bowl. Switch moves up and down without friction. Will not fire any atty. Checked voltage at 510 connector. Zero volts. Checked continuity on vape safe. Zero ohms, so ok. Checked continuity between positive contact in bottom of bowl and keyring. Infinite ohms...not ok...

Anything else I should check? Or does it indeed need to be returned for a fix...


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Hmmm. These are triple checked before they go out so maybe we can do some trouble shooting and get it working instead of having you send it back. At least I hope we can. However you said the brass pad at the bottom of the bowl to the center pin is showing infinite ohms? If that's the case... Something has gone terribly wrong... And it will need to be sent back. Very sorry about this. We will get it sorted out quickly for you though.

shoot an email over to Katie@epipemods.com for return repair info, if there is indeed no continuity between the brass bottom pad and the center pin.
again sincere apologies
 
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Akdare

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Hmmm. These are triple checked before they go out so maybe we can do some trouble shooting and get it working instead of having you send it back. At least I hope we can. However you said the brass pad at the bottom of the bowl to the center pin is showing infinite ohms? If that's the case... Something has gone terribly wrong... And it will need to be sent back. Very sorry about this. We will get it sorted out quickly for you though.

shoot an email over to Katie@epipemods.com for return repair info, if there is indeed no continuity between the brass bottom pad and the center pin.
again sincere apologies

Matt,

There is continuity between the brass bottom pad and the center pin. There was not continuity between the brass pad and the keyring...

However, I believe I've isolated the problem. Measuring the voltage between the center pin and the negative end of the battery is 4.2v. I think that either the key ring is setting too deep in the bowl, or the brass connector is setting a little too tall at the bottom of the bowl (I think it might be this, but really hard to see down in there). If a put a straight edge on the bottom of the battery, the ring is setting at least 1mm lower.

I did run it without the vape safe, and it does fire, albeit continuously. I guess it could also be a too-thick vape safe. Mine is 2.52mm.

Let me know if I should try something else, or just send Katie an email...


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