Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison

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geekmedic

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Nothing but problems today; rebuilt with a very beautiful 1.6ohm coil last night, vaped great. Now today the resistance is all over the place anywhere from 4.4-1.0 impossible for me to figure out whatthe issue is while at work.
Also I've never been able to break it down to all of it's individual parts, cant ge the positive block off or the 510 threading.
Suggestions welcome
 

KTMRider

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Nothing but problems today; rebuilt with a very beautiful 1.6ohm coil last night, vaped great. Now today the resistance is all over the place anywhere from 4.4-1.0 impossible for me to figure out what the issue is while at work.
Also I've never been able to break it down to all of it's individual parts, cant ge the positive block off or the 510 threading.
Suggestions welcome

What mod are you using? Erlk's are known to have short 510's so it could be that it's not contacting properly. If you can, try lifting the 510 center pin a bit. If that doesn't help, when you get home, open it up and tighten the post screws.
 

geekmedic

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What mod are you using? Erlk's are known to have short 510's so it could be that it's not contacting properly. If you can, try lifting the 510 center pin a bit. If that doesn't help, when you get home, open it up and tighten the post screws.

Using spring 510's on iPV mini, and modified iStick, so no pulling on the 510 happening. I tried to do a complete tear down last night (and when I got it) I cannot get the positive block out or the 510 feel like im going to ruin something.
 

VapingTurtle

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Try tightening the positive screw in the 510 connector a bit (on the Erl, not the mod). If you have added a spacer under the screw, remove the screw and see if the spacer has slipped from its position. A wobbly resistance is sometimes from a loose pos deck caused by a loose pos screw.
 

rondasherrill

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I have everything tightened down, ohms still jumping all over on everything I screw it onto. I still cannot separate the positive block and the 510. Ready to trash it, to bad cause I was really liking it too

Just making sure, because I didn't know when I first got mine... To get the positive block out, you remove the 510 positive pin screw, and then inside there you will notice the white plastic looking part also has slots for a flathead screwdriver. Unscrew that and then the positive block will fall out.
 

geekmedic

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... To get the positive block out, you remove the 510 positive pin screw, and then inside there you will notice the white plastic looking part also has slots for a flathead screwdriver. Unscrew that and then the positive block will fall out.

Thanks, that is exactly the step I was missing in disassemble. Torn down, cleaned, rebuilt, vaping very well for me at the moment.
 

Splatnext

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Finally got my erl-nano in today, it vapes great, so I am going to order the mini chimneys and kayfun glass replacement to make two more of the erls I already have minis.

There is only one hair in the soup, the mini erl wobbles, so once I empty this tank I have the pleasure of taring it apart and figuring out what's loose.
 

ZeroOhm

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Not had a great deal of fortune with the ERL clones the nano came and it was short central, there is hardly any room between the coil screw and the wick post almost killed my SX Mini the centre 510 screw is recessed to will need to junk it or use 10x orings to make it good, the green boxed one from was OK better than the nano but the tank started cracking around the top and bottom with only custard juice and it shattered in the cold.

I have used the nano tank and chimney on a genuine erlk base and top cap all is good there.
 

geekmedic

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Finally got my erl-nano in today, it vapes great, so I am going to order the mini chimneys and kayfun glass replacement to make two more of the erls I already have minis.

There is only one hair in the soup, the mini erl wobbles, so once I empty this tank I have the pleasure of taring it apart and figuring out what's loose.

Mine got solid after my tear down last night
 

LoveVanilla

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Haven't seen it stated elsewhere else, so thought I would pass on that the 510 pin on the FT mini IS adjustable. Also on the air bubbles that sometime form and obstructs juice feed -- this is lessened by leaving off the wicking/juice control ring. The slight overlap of this ring seems to trap them at the juice feed hole.

Also you might ask how/why air is pulled thru the wick and form a bubble at this location. And the answer is because a vacuum within the tank. What I do when hitting hard is open the refill -- this increases juice and prevents. Or you can also open periodically to prevent an excessive vacuum. Just make sure to close but you leave it sitting.

Love this little tank, and if the full-size ever arrives (for comparison), will likely order another. Enjoy!
 

LoveVanilla

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It seems no matter what size coil I build, it remains stable but after two days of chain vaping it starts to wonder. Currently my 1.4 ohm build is reading between 1.2 - 3.3 ohm on everything I put it on. Can't figure it out.

Resistance on my coils typically seems to increase over life of the coil. Don't know why. Perhaps oxidation layer at the coil's contact points? Not much of an issue with VW. I built using complete right-handed wrap around screws and tightened with needle nose pliers before tightening screws. Just rewicked current coil (maybe 1 1/2 weeks old) and not seeing any issue (other than some noted resistance creep over coil lifetime).

If resistance is fluctuating, a bad connection seems most likely (though could be coil shorting against the chimney, broken wire, etc.).
 

LoveVanilla

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Will any of the Kayfun nano/quartz glass tanks fit the mini Erl? I just ordered one of the mini Erl (full atomizer) from FT and would like a glass tank myself instead of the plastic one included. I'm thinking of picking up the colored Kayfun glass.

Yes, here's what I'm using. Fits fine, though since glass and metal have different rates of expansion, I haven't taken out in extreme cold. Brrrr... IBTanked has available tank in colored glass; I think this is the right fit.
 
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