Evolve DNA 12 preliminary Testing w/ MCU and OLED Display

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breaktru

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@ Bubbertyboo

pardon my ignorance, but what do you wish to gain from using the dna over the Kick, in this application....

i would understand if you wanted to double stack for 24W but aside from that, i just dont see it...

you have a point buzz, the kick was designed for tube mods.
Kick: 5w to 10w
dna: 5w to 12w
 

retird

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I wonder if not having a negative connection on the load side of the DNA will affect the operation of the DNA? Internal design may require a load there to operate....The way I understand, when there is no atty/carto attached the DNA is in sleep mode...Brandon could answer....just thinking out loud here....
 

breaktru

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I wonder if not having a negative connection on the load side of the DNA will affect the operation of the DNA? Internal design may require a load there to operate....The way I understand, when there is no atty/carto attached the DNA is in sleep mode...Brandon could answer....just thinking out loud here....

I was kinda leading to that in my reply. You are probably right retird. I'm sure the load resistance has to be monitored thru the circuitry to adjust wattage.
However......, it is not impossible for all neg connections to be in common. This is a common practice with mcu circuits. Even hooking different power sources, all negative connections are connected. But without a schematic, I am only speculating.
 

Bubbertyboo

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@ Bubbertyboo

pardon my ignorance, but what do you wish to gain from using the DNA over the Kick, in this application....

i would understand if you wanted to double stack for 24W but aside from that, i just dont see it...

Im not gaining anything to be honest i have a kick already i just wanted to build it pure and simple something to do i love to tinker its fun playing around with me ecigs.

i have 2 top tubes here especially made for my ggts to be able to take an 18650 and a kick without threads showing and the spare was for this purpose.

Am i right in thinking the charge curcuit is already built in and the two connections on the board are for the 5v usb input breaktru.
 

breaktru

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Im not gaining anything to be honest i have a kick already i just wanted to build it pure and simple something to do i love to tinker its fun playing around with me ecigs.

i have 2 top tubes here especially made for my ggts to be able to take an 18650 and a kick without threads showing and the spare was for this purpose.

Am i right in thinking the charge curcuit is already built in and the two connections on the board are for the 5v usb input breaktru.

You have to add an actual charge circuit/module. The charge pins are there to provide a convenience to hook up one.

Tinker away Bub.... can't wait to here from you with your completed hack of the GGTS.
 

Bubbertyboo

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Ok just an update got the pot today and fitted it all up all worked fine earthing the minus of the atty to a common ground gave it a few tests fitted it together and worked for about 30 seconds and now all it does is the little red light on the board just flashes once when the power is connected so i think i have killed it somehow unsure what to do now stripped it all back to basics and it still does not work oh well back to the kick.
 

CityLights

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Bubbertyboo. looking at the traces on the DNA, the atomizer output does not share a common ground with the Battery. (I have not confirmed this with a meter yet as my DNA 12 in still in the post) ..So you may have created a Ground Loop with your circuit and may have fried it. Recommend to follow the specs!!
 

breaktru

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Ok just an update got the pot today and fitted it all up all worked fine earthing the minus of the atty to a common ground gave it a few tests fitted it together and worked for about 30 seconds and now all it does is the little red light on the board just flashes once when the power is connected so i think i have killed it somehow unsure what to do now stripped it all back to basics and it still does not work oh well back to the kick.

Should of listened to my post #55 and #58. That was an expensive tinkering job.
 

breaktru

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Win some you lose some lads what about the pot could that be the problem if that failed would it just throw up an error?

I'm sorry to hear that the board might be damage.
I don't think the pot is causing the err. You can try running it with NO pot. If that still generates an Err then:
remove ALL you wiring from the DNA and wire it exactly as the datasheet recommends outside of the mod.
 

breaktru

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thinking when I get my DNA's about adding additional heat sink material...may just get it to 12 watts that way....???

Don't think that would help any retird. Also, the existing heat-sink doesn't really get HOT. The only way I think you can get max watts is like mamu tried. Keep all power wires short. And maybe beef up the gauge to 16ga . No on/off switch to illuminate resistance and solder wires to battery. Sounds impractical? It is.
 

breaktru

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Yep, short wiring...going to take a different approach on mine to see if it improves the wattage .....w/extra heat sink also...we will see...makes for fun modding....

Good retird, short wiring :)
I hate to be a Debbie Downer here but the extra heat-sink will NOT increase wattage.
Would help if it was cutting out due to overheating but they don't run that hot. Sorry :(
 
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mamu

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I agree with Breaktru. The heat sink barely gets warm so adding extra prob won't help.

I got curious :D about the wiring. I wired and re-wired one board with the same length of 18 ga., 20 ga., and 22 ga., wires on the output and battery. Didn't change anything - still got 11.1 Watts max across all wire gauges.

The only thing I've found so far that affects the max Watts is the length of the wiring run. The shorter the better, but even with that still no 12 Watts. :(
 
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