i have always had good results with just heating up the wire once, in hand, but i have heard of people tying weights onto the wires then heating and stretching. i suppose it can do more bad then good if not done correctly.
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i have always had good results with just heating up the wire once, in hand, but i have heard of people tying weights onto the wires then heating and stretching. i suppose it can do more bad then good if not done correctly.
That's all that's required. Let it air cool.
Making this wire requires it to be "drawn" through progressively smaller sizing dies
and this process "work hardens" the wire.. That's why it needs to be annealed before you try to form it.
Annealing improves ductility and makes it easier to work with.
Heating more than once is just a waste of time.
Although this wire is much more ductile than, say, a knife blade, metals still share general properties. Whenever you bend, hammer, shape them, they are (to varying degrees) stressed. When you bend it into a coil shape, you are (however mildly) stessing the metal. Annealing (or "normalizing") allows the metal to relax into this coiled shape. If you make a coil of slightly smaller diameter than your finished product and "normalize" it, you will now be stressing it in the opposite direction (when you insert the wick), and it will want to shrink back into the tighter coil. Thusly, you make a very snug coil and as you work it around your wick, it will continue to want to shrink back to the tighter diameter and hold onto your wick.
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Annealing the coil on a smaller drill bit has worked very well, but its difficult to keep that normalized shape and fit it into wick, then into atty,without deforming it somewhat. Tensioning and annealing directly on wick could perhaps produce better results, but have yet to test it.
Awesomeness, thanks, and will do!
Man, I'm just tryin' to get one just to try out lol, so I'm only ordering those now cause I'm desperate and curious and super concerned about carcinogens and just want everyone to have something super-safe to smoke awn
lightandmind, have you received any responses on custom orders to the optimal dimensions? I share your concerns, less about carcinogens but more on the potential lung damage from "wrong" ceramics that might release micron-sized particulates during use or grinding (please do wear a dust mask when sanding or grinding). I have a chemistry degree and level-5 COPD, so any ceramics based on silica are a concern (is easy to look up history of incurable lung disease from silica particles, basically equivalent to asbestos). However, the high-fired alumina ceramics should be fine, even better if particles are blown out before first use after mechanical shaping (could use an aquarium pump for this). But regardless of vaping performance, I would be hesitant about fishsticks without knowing the base ceramic material composition as many ceramics are silica or clay based. The grade described below (from your ICT International reference) sounds ideal:
Ceramic - B0.5M2
This ceramic is developed from a high fired, Alumina body. The resulting ceramic is an excellent material which is extremely porous, inert to most all solutions, possesses hard exterior and interior surfaces, and is pure white in color. This material is recommended for low pressure differentials not exceeding 7.4 psi. The tremendous porosity and high conductivity of fluids or gases make it ideal for quick extractions or in creating, monitoring or extracting pulse hydrological events. The material is ideal for liquid or gas sampling as the Alumina material has almost no ionic exchange sites or "leachable" mineralogy. This is a truly superior ceramic for both industrial and scientific work where high volume transfer or testing at low pressure differentials is necessary.
Please report back when you receive any vendor feedback on the high-fired alumina ceramics. These properties should be what we are aiming for. Many thanks for seeking out new (and maybe superior) sources! I truly hope they work as well for our needs.
vap bro, if you got 5 or 6 juices running on different PVs, this business will get coslty quickly.
My first order was for 9 wicks (3 packs of 3) that's 72.60$ ie 8 bucks a wick. I broke 2 so I had no backup for most of my setups, I ordered another 3 packs (of 3). So I'm in for already more that 140$ worth of bubble stone: that's the price of an AC9 kit right here
In order to coil them, we have to take an 8$ risk each time. that's the cost of a snap and the better the coil, the greater the risk.
As you know, this thread is spotted by the suppliers and it would be a good idea to send an unequivocal message that these prices are just ridiculous... honestly and with all the good will, I can't afford this one in the long run if prices remain as high...
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Guy's oh and Gal's
The way I got my coil so tight that it cant be moved is by reading and experimenting many times.
This is what I do, it may work for you, and I am repeating what most have said but perhaps my method may make it a little clearer for some.
I have my wick 1/8th yeah just a little over 3mm so I use a 2mm rod I have (just happened to have a rod at 2mm) I wrap the coil around tightly and make 3 more turns than what I want.
All the time I am ensuring I do not release the tension on the wire, the coils are touching each other ie: no gap on each turn
I grab both ends with pliers and hold the tension while I torch it just once but it takes a very long time to heat it up as the 2mm mass behind it is extremely large in comparison to the wire.
I then allow it to cool yes air cool no quenching
then I pull both ends away from each other and the coil springs out enough to make an even gap between each coil
I then place it onto the wick by untwisting / unwinding it by 1/4 turn so the coil becomes larger than it's relaxed state and then when in position I release it and it grips the wick hard, so hard you cant move it.
then I move the bottom wire into position under the screw but in doing this I slightly unwind the coil almost 1 turn so that tension is against the wick and the screw thread then I count the turns up and unwind the top till I have the right number of turns I want and wrap that under the nut but I make a last min adjustment by unwinding to space the coils out evenly from base to top.
It's a lot of stuffing around and I should do a video of it at some stage and it's also a collection of what I have read and a few minor changes from my thoughts, one can always improve on a method, coming up with the method is the hard part..... thanks to those who came up with the method.....
Elias
The way I got my coil so tight that it cant be moved is by reading and experimenting many times.
This is what I do, it may work for you, and I am repeating what most have said but perhaps my method may make it a little clearer for some.
I have my wick 1/8th yeah just a little over 3mm so I use a 2mm rod I have (just happened to have a rod at 2mm) I wrap the coil around tightly and make 3 more turns than what I want.
All the time I am ensuring I do not release the tension on the wire, the coils are touching each other ie: no gap on each turn
I grab both ends with pliers and hold the tension while I torch it just once but it takes a very long time to heat it up as the 2mm mass behind it is extremely large in comparison to the wire.
I then allow it to cool yes air cool no quenching
then I pull both ends away from each other and the coil springs out enough to make an even gap between each coil
I then place it onto the wick by untwisting / unwinding it by 1/4 turn so the coil becomes larger than it's relaxed state and then when in position I release it and it grips the wick hard, so hard you cant move it.
then I move the bottom wire into position under the screw but in doing this I slightly unwind the coil almost 1 turn so that tension is against the wick and the screw thread then I count the turns up and unwind the top till I have the right number of turns I want and wrap that under the nut but I make a last min adjustment by unwinding to space the coils out evenly from base to top.
It's a lot of stuffing around and I should do a video of it at some stage and it's also a collection of what I have read and a few minor changes from my thoughts, one can always improve on a method, coming up with the method is the hard part..... thanks to those who came up with the method.....
Elias
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I broke in my wick / coil around half way through my second tank
How I did that is used max wattage 15w setting and some VG with some flavor I didnt like, tilted the wick downhill so juice is right up at the top of the tank and burn for 5 seconds turn tank over so no juice is on the wick burn until coils glow then repeat till tank is empty.
Second tank half fill I used just PG no flavor and did the same for around 1/4 a tank then I let it rest (battery was probably as hot as the coils at this stage) then I sat it vertically and at 5w I pulsed for 3 seconds on 5 seconds off 3 times in a row then let it rest for a bit 1 min sometimes 30 seconds etc and repeated until that last 1/4 was gone.
Result is coils are black wick is black and takes 6 - 7 watts of power without dry hits for 3 in a row puffs
Well I already mixed one of my juices down to 50% flavour because it was over the top in strength vaping with this setup. It worked out well thanks to you guys helping so much, I extend my thanks to you all for all your tips.
Elias
How I did that is used max wattage 15w setting and some VG with some flavor I didnt like, tilted the wick downhill so juice is right up at the top of the tank and burn for 5 seconds turn tank over so no juice is on the wick burn until coils glow then repeat till tank is empty.
Second tank half fill I used just PG no flavor and did the same for around 1/4 a tank then I let it rest (battery was probably as hot as the coils at this stage) then I sat it vertically and at 5w I pulsed for 3 seconds on 5 seconds off 3 times in a row then let it rest for a bit 1 min sometimes 30 seconds etc and repeated until that last 1/4 was gone.
Result is coils are black wick is black and takes 6 - 7 watts of power without dry hits for 3 in a row puffs
Well I already mixed one of my juices down to 50% flavour because it was over the top in strength vaping with this setup. It worked out well thanks to you guys helping so much, I extend my thanks to you all for all your tips.
Elias
Steve, after your suggestions to be patient and some guidance with coils etc I removed a turn to 1.5-1.6 ohms now and it works well on my smoktech natural, the natural is mechanical so as the battery dies so to does the vapor, but thats ok cause its pocket sized... but on the vamo its constant at 5w heaps of vapor, over dosing on it to be quite frank.... thick thick vapor and too much flavor to go with it...
thanks
Elias
You were warned . . . fantastic news. Great to see someone else enjoying these wicks.
Cheers.
Ive been kinda following this thread, made a fish stick and still had a short (Huge problem for me with SS) So I dont get it, I need to try again and make another but it was pretty frustrating getting the fish stick almost able to fit and then brake it. I needed to step away for a few days, back at it tonight.
Anyway, the reason I decided to post was because DV has wicks up on their site for pre order, expected on the 9th.
I needed to step away for a few days, back at it tonight.Anyway, the reason I decided to post was because DV has wicks up on their site for pre order, expected on the 9th.
vap bro, if you got 5 or 6 juices running on different PVs, this business will get coslty quickly.
My first order was for 9 wicks (3 packs of 3) that's 72.60$ ie 8 bucks a wick. I broke 2 so I had no backup for most of my setups, I ordered another 3 packs (of 3). So I'm in for already more that 140$ worth of bubble stone: that's the price of an AC9 kit right here
In order to coil them, we have to take an 8$ risk each time. that's the cost of a snap and the better the coil, the greater the risk.
As you know, this thread is spotted by the suppliers and it would be a good idea to send an unequivocal message that these prices are just ridiculous... honestly and with all the good will, I can't afford this one in the long run if prices remain as high...
i do agree that these wicks are expensive, and sometimes i just forget because their in my devices and working good, and i forget how many people are breaking them, which adds up.
Ive been kinda following this thread, made a fish stick and still had a short (Huge problem for me with SS) So I dont get it, I need to try again and make another but it was pretty frustrating getting the fish stick almost able to fit and then brake it.
Anyway, the reason I decided to post was because DV has wicks up on their site for pre order, expected on the 9th.
hey buddy, it may look like a short, but most likely it can be one of two things, one, just a loose wrap for the most important thing in wrapping ceramic is to get it nice and tight. the other reason is that before these wicks break in the coils will just glow in any position, thats why you need to turn down the volts and break in. but most likely the so called short is just a loose wrap. this can be partially eliminated by adding a few wrapps of cheesecloth thread before wrapping your coil. this will make contact just a bit better. unless you are talking about the top leg hot spot in the aga, then maybe a small washer is needed. i have always used one on the aga's and never had the issue.
you know i vape a mechanical mod alot and although i have some 18650 aw imr batterys , i really never can tell the vapor is diminishing. i put in a fresh battery in the morning and by the end of the day the battery is down to 3.6 ish, so from 4 volts to 3.6 i really cannot tell the difference. i also vape my provari during the day as well.
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